I found this Torque Tube Video. It provides basic knowledge on some basic Torque Tube 101 information. There are a LOT of new C5 owners who are still learning what some of us plank owners have learned throughout the years of ownership or DIY repairs.

This video is a basic video and NOT the maintenance manual overhaul procedure. There is a whole lot more involvement for a proper TT rebuild. Especially if you need to replace the bearings. There is also some misinformation and procedures that are left out. One big one is the coupler reinstall orientation. Each coupler has an arrow on it and that arrow needs to face in a specific direction when reinstalled. I never remember what that direction is and that is why you need to use the correct factory manual procedure when doing work on the TT. I do not do TT rebuilds on a regular basis but once you have the basics down, it's pretty easy to understand what you need to know to survive.

There are TWO variations of C5 TTs. Early 97-2000 & Late 2001-2004. The early TT use bolts to secure the inner propellor shaft assembly into the outer tube. Early TTs also use the smaller coupler and coupler fasteners. Later TTs use that snap ring and the larger diameter couplers. I have that smaller snap ring set of plyers that was first pictured in the video and it worked just fine for snap ring removal. IMHO, That snap ring is not that big of a deal getting it in or out. I do recommend putting some penetrating oil or light lube on it to break any bond that YEARS have had on it.

You can upgrade the early TT to the later TT if you like.

Note!! NEVER EVER, purchase and use the Dorman coupler! They fit BUT are much softer and much less durable than an OEM coupler. Ask me how I know! A friend with a 2000 coupe replaced his couplers with a Dorman replacement coupler and within 4 mounts had to replace them with the OEM coupler.

The video. ENJOY..

 

 

The snap ring isn't that bad to get out if you have a big snap ring plier. I think we have the amazon specials ABN 16 inch.

I'd like to know what socket people use on the torque tube bolts. I believe it is a T55 plus.

 

IF,, you apply just a little heat to soften up that lock tight, it comes loose a whole lot easier. Use a propane torch or even a heat gun and heat it up to approx. 200-250 deg.

 

Should only be blue loctite on that fastener. You can use heat, but a 2 foot piece of conduit on a 1/2" breaker bar works perfect.

 

I use heat (sparingly) on many vehicle repairs. I use heat when removing/reinstalling the damper, Brake caliper bracket bolts, TT Bolts, or anywhere GM uses lock tight. It makes the job much easier. You DO NOT need a lot of heat. Just enough to soften up that thread locker.
The caliper bracket bolts use high strength lock tight and require a bit more heat.

 

Caliper bracket bolts are the worst, especially on jackstands with no leverage.

 

Thanks for posting. They have some other cool videos too.