Our 60k mile 2000 C5 oil pressure gauge pegged yesterday, and the display is reading 130lbs of oil pressure, so it's time to replace the oil pressure sensor. I've been reading thru posts on replacing it, and I will pull the intake to replace the sensor. It will be the first time the intakes been off. I'm leaning toward not relocating the oil pressure sensor.
So I'm looking for advice from the folks that have done this and have some questions:
I know I need an in/lb torque wrench, a 1-1/16 socket, intake gaskets, oil pressure sensor, and a fuel line release tool. Are there any other supplies I'll need?
That small vacuum line at the back of the intake looks tough to work with. Some folks add extra tubing to it. Is that recommended?
What brand oil pressure sensor is preferred? I've read the Delcos aren't that good?
While the intake is off, what else should I replace? I've seen folks recommend changing the passenger side secondary air check valve and the crank position sensor. What do you guys think?
I've looked over the service manual for intake removal and installation, read some posts on here and watched a few youtube videos - a couple of them look pretty good, but several don't. Is there a post or video that's a must read/watch before I dig into this project?
Thanks

 

It is not a hard job. you don't have to pull the fuel rails (just disconnect the line as you stated). You can leave the vacuum hose on the back for the booster, I usually just disconnect it at the brake booster. The HVAC line you should be able to disconnect once the intake is loose and pulled forward enough to get your hand back there.
You can leave the throttle body on too. May have to disconnect coolant line if yours still has them running through it.
You can use rubber bands or something to hold the rear bolts up so they don't keep falling while you trying to move it forward.
Clean it up real nice and keep debris from getting into the intake ports.
The passenger rear is the only bolt difficult to torque down if I remember correctly.

 

So I did my knock sensors about 6 times due to them not putting out enough voltage & I can say it's a super easy job to remove the intake manifold.
I would start by pulling the fuel pump relay & doing a "clear flood mode" start if the vehicle has to be moved or you can't just let it sit for a bit before working on it.
- Press accelorator fully down and start the car. It'll turn the engine over but not use fuel or spark.
- Next, get some rags that will be soaked in fuel and but them below the fuel rail connection. Pop the clip off and use a removal tool. Should be easy
When you remove the intake manifold bolts pull the bolts you can get to off the car and put them away. For the back two, loosen them & use some painters tape to stop them from falling back down so you can easily remove the manifold
Just be careful of the vacuum line connected to the intake manifold on the back. Remove it when you first start and check it before you pull the manifold.

I would also mention NOT touching the knock sensors and be sure to note where the harness for it is as well.

Good time to add a relocation kit for the oil pressure switch. I did the Buick sensor from O'Riley's that has a lifetime warranty. Easy to change out when it acts up.
The cam positioning sensor O-ring is also a good item to consider changing but if it's not leaking, there's also no need to touch it.

Mahle Intake Gaskets on RockAuto are good, just avoid Felpro. Make sure you clean the head's surface before installing the manifold back & I like to use gun oil or silicone lube to lube up the gaskets prior to install.

 

Not to hard to pull the intake, and yes add a short length of vacuum tubing to extend the HVAC vacuum line, almost impossible to reconnect if you don't.

 

I'd replace the intake gaskets, knock sensor gasket, and valley cover gasket if they haven't in the past 25 years.

We typically, unplug the wires to the throttlebody, disconnet the air bridge from the TB but leave the TB on the intake.

Once you get the the intake free from all connections, fuel, vacuum, wirring, etc. Pull the intake up and slightly forward and disconnect the HVAC tube if you can't reach back and do so earlier.

On reinstallation on the FAST we have some hose cut to length and slit length wise to collar 3 rear most intake manifold bolts keep them from dropping. Slide the intake far enough back to connect the HVAC hose. Then get the intake in place and pull the hose off the bolts allowing them drop the bolts in place. You might want to start a few bolts further forward in the intake so that you know the intake is in place before pulling the hoses off.

 

Thanks for the replies. folks. Much appreciated. I'm soaking up this info like a sponge.
I found a relocation kit that looks good from DPE Corvettes. The kit without the gauge supposedly doesn't require a harness extension, and uses a small bracket that uses one of the coil pack fasteners to attach it under the coil pack cover. I'll give them a call tomorrow to confirm as I can't find a lot of info on it. Has anyone here used that kit?

And - on a 2000 will I need to drain the coolant?

 

you do not need to drain the coolant. Make an oil pressure sensor relocation kit and make you you also extend the harness.
heres a link for Harness extension.
as for the oil pressure sensor, Ive had great luck with Dorman sensor, been running it for 2 years now. Orileys has a lifetime warranty for them. Dorman 926-040

 

Just remembered we have the LS2 throttlebodies on FAST intakes. The factory throttlebody has coolant running through it. You can pull the factory throttle body off the intake to keep form cracking the cooling system or disconnect the hoses.

You will have to pull the steam vent crossover which will release some coolant but I don't think it will be much.

If you do unbolt the throttlebody form the intake, I'd replace the gasket. I don't trust gasket that have been in place 25 years, to seal up again after being compressed for all that tie.

This will give you more step by step on getting everything off.
https://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18


I pull the fuel rail off the intake and lay it on top of a towel or something at the base of the windshield, never disconnecting the fuel system. Again injector o rings would be an item I replace.

 

Thanks for that detailed - with pics - write up. This project is looking less intimidating.

I just saw this post. Post 19 has a photo of the finished relocation that looks good. I like the mounting under the fuel rail cover. I'd like to put together a relocation kit on my own. I've seen a few posts with descriptions and part numbers of the items, but I don't have enough info to know if they're what I want.
So I've got a a couple more questions:
What is the thread size in the block the sensor screws into?
I've seen fittings coming out of the block - some have an adpater with a 45 degree fitting, some have a 90. What is preferred if you're mounting the sensor under the fuel rail cover?
Thanks

 

I have used a 45, some have used no angle, and I don't see why a 90 wouldn't work.

ICT billet makes a fitting to go in place of the sensor and converts to 4an marketed as a turbo oil feed. You could get the an line with a 45 on the end. Summit and Pegasus racing have plenty of an options.

 

Thanks! Great info. I found that fitting on their website and on Amazon. I'll start my relocation kit with that.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-relocate.html

When relocating, we have used the Buick sensor which does not have the same thread as the Corvette sensor but wiring and signals are the same.

Starting with the block you could go with:
https://www.ictbillet.com/products/l...sx-ls1-ls3-ls2 or fromt Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-an816-04-m16
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all46401-15 - They have different lengths if your research takes you to something else. I do like the 180 design on the sensor end to tie the sensor to the top of the motor.

Disclaimer: we haven't used this selection of parts as the ICT billet adapter was not on the market. The complaint with the relocation is it can create a failure/leak point. If I remember correctly on the sensor side of the line, we went AN to 1/8 npt with a fitting, and 1/8 to 1/4 npt with another. Verify the Buick sensor thread to make sure I'm not steering you wrong.

The parts list above eliminates some possible leak points. A friend and I put together 3 relocations with the fitting in the block being female, so the 45 is male npt on 1 end and male an on the line end, never a leak but this can happen without tape between the unions with the original version of the mod.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2723 - I think this fitting will work with the Buick sensor but haven't used it. Summit has a good tech line and should know.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-big-leak.html The leak which could happen if not installed correctly.

We also put the 45 leaning to the driverside and slightly forward facing.

 

Thanks again. Great help.
So the Buick oil pressure senor is 1/4" NPT threads? Is there an advantage to using that over the stock oil pressure sensor?

 

The Buick sensor has been more durable.

Part # and thread post 72:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1558769696

First post in the topic has a Corvette sensor cut open.

When we built them, we picked up the sensor and brass fittings at a NAPA. So we could test the connections before leaving the store.

 

When putting the manifold back on putting a piece of split hose over the rear fasteners holds them up making it much easier to slide the manifold back in place along with the mentioned vacuum hose extension. I also did a home made pressure relocate with a mechanical pressure gauge.

 

Thanks for the info everyone.
That looks really nice. I hope to make mine similar to that, but without the gauge.
I've got a couple more questions:
Do you remember the length of the stainless hose that you used? Maybe 15" or 18"?
To extend the small hose at the back of the intake, will I need 5/32" or 3/16" hose? I've seen it called both.

We've had our C5 for 19 years, and might be selling it to buy a C7. For the sake of the next owner, I've decided to use the stock AC Delco OPS. In case the new one ever goes bad, it will be a stock part for the new owner to purchase, and should be easy to install.
We just got back from a week long trip with 10 other Corvettes from our local Corvette club. We went from the Seattle area down to Grant's Pass, OR, then over to Eureka, CA and did the Redwood Forest stuff. Then back up the coast, ending up at Westport, WA for their annual All Corvette Show, What a blast, and the C5 performed flawlessly, until the OP gauge pegged on the last day. We had 2 C8's and 2 C7's in the group, so we got to see them in action out on the road. The C5 held it's own very nicely on the trip, and they are still great cars. Here's the C5 next to a C4 and a C8.


Here's a C7 that caught my eye. I think they should all have those double stripes, they enhance the body lines of that car.

 

I've read about guys using clothes pins to hold the bolts. I've never used anything. I just pull it forward and lift the bolt that is holding up the removal at any given time. As for oil sending units, dont replace the junk factory sender with more junk, aka the OEM GM sender. I installed the 1 year guaranteed O'Reilly sender at least 6 or 7 years ago. Never had another issue, still on there. Didnt torque it down, either. The OEM senders are as reliable as an Ex-wife's testimony at a custody hearing!! Yes, I like that analogy, and no, DON'T ASK why!!!...

 

Hey Grinder,
"The OEM senders are as reliable as an Ex-wife's testimony at a custody hearing!"
Thanks for the info and the chuckle. Great stuff.
I'll be installing the sender from O'Reilly's

 

[QUOTE=Six7390gt;1609070371]Thanks for the info everyone.
That looks really nice. I hope to make mine similar to that, but without the gauge.
I've got a couple more questions:
Do you remember the length of the stainless hose that you used? Maybe 15" or 18"?
To extend the small hose at the back of the intake, will I need 5/32" or 3/16" hose? I've seen it called both.

I made my own piece of hose with stuff I already had. It ended up around 16-18" IIRC. I cannot remember exactly what size vacuum tube however I believe either will work. Remember to get a vacuum line coupler as well to connect to the original tube.

 

I'm another one with a meh review on an OE sensor, killed one in a few years on the wife's 5.3L Envoy. I didn't see the proper socket mentioned yet for the OPS.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...PV8ztNWuf1JGp2

It fits nicer than a regular socket.