When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i AM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY M6 98 40,000 miles, IT IS VERY NOTCHY AND HARD TO SELECT SHIFTS, WORSE WHEN COLD, SOME CRUNCHING ON 6TH MOST TIMES UNLESS I SHIFT SLOWLY THEN 6TH SHIFT IS SMOOTH, THE CLUTCH SEEMS FINE AT LAUNCH WITH PLENTY OF HOOKUP .ARE THERE ANY ADJUSTMENTS ON THE SHIFTER ? I WAS THINKING OF ADDING SOME GEARBOX LUBE LIKE Slick 50 or Pro Ma, you know the real slippery stuff, THE SHIFT INTO 1ST AT THE LIGHTS DOESN'T WANT TO GO IN AT TIMES AND SOMETIMES JUMPS OUT AGAIN WHEN I TRY TO TAKE OFF...ANY IDEAS APPRECIATED GUYS.....Cheers
There are a couple of bulletins out on this, but it sounds like you have a problem internal to the tranny. Don't put in any additive, especially something to make it slicker. That will only make it worse. I would start witha fluid change to see if it helps, but it may require more then that to fix.
Yeah thanks i guess the box will have to come out, i had the fluid changed and it did improve for a little while but now it's back to it's old self again, you know it feels like the cir clips are not sliding smooth on the shafts or that's what it feels like through the shifter....What type of gearbox are these? i don't know if we have any parts here in Australia, are they a Getrag box ?Thanks.
Once in a while a low mileage one will appear in the parts for sale. Might be a better option, that way if you have to ship out your unit for repair the car won't be down.
Are you sure it's the tranny? Almost sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging completely, since the problem you're experiencing is in all gears. If it was a tranny problem I'd expect a couple of gears to be giving you grief, but others would be OK.
I've got the same problem with mine. 98 M6 vert with 80k. It is a combination of the synchros and the clutch master and slave cylinders. Pre-01 clutch pedals will stay on the floor after a hard launch due to the bad design of the cylinders. Also, due to the design 2-3 shift will often miss. My 4th gear synchro is almost gone, so I drive without going into 4th, otherwise it grinds before going in. With my mileage and situation, this is what I am doing. I am ordering the synchro kit from ddperformance.com $229, upgraded 3-4 viper shift fork ($50?), upgraded 01 z06 master and slave clutch cylinders probably from gmpartsdirect.com, and new star spec stage 3 carbon clutch setup, haven't found source yet. This setup should hold all the power I ever hope to have and not break for the least money. I plan on finding a place that has experience with these cars because I hear there can be problems if not done right. I am doing the clutch because of my mileage and the labor cost savings. You may need to do the clutch, but the clutch cylinders might be a good idea.
I had similar problems with my tranny around 38k miles. They replaced the syncros and it functions much better, but still not up to par. I think it wore out because of a weak clutch assembly, and if I don't get my clutch/master/slave replaced soon, it will probably go again. I have to slam the clutch to the floor on the 1-2 shift, or I get a slight crunch every once in a while -- especially when cold. This leads me to believe the clutch is contributing to the problem.
Well, it's at the rear, but the work is complicated by the torque tunnel; I think that the tranny and torque tube have to be removed as a unit to work on the tranny. Hopefully someone else will chime in that has actually removed the tranny before.
Come to think of it it does sound like it's the clutch not disengaging after a hard launch and this will also lead on to internal problems with synchro's and the like if not rectified, so thanks everyone i will go down the road of having the slave & master cylinders looked at and maybe the pressure plate? it could be the answer before the box gets too damaged internally....Cheers..