T1 sway bar install help!
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T1 sway bar install help!
I am running the T1 bar up front already but I am switching over to the T1 links, replacing the Hotchkis links. Each T1 link has a short spacer and a long spacer around the threaded bolt. My question is should I use two washers to seperate the bar (one on each side) or how exactly do these links go on? Thanx! :confused: :confused:
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Re: T1 sway bar install help! (turboo2u)
Use the washers adter the spacers and the heim joint, so that the washer could trap the heim joint if it suddenly failed and the ball got separated from the race.
You would end up with ...
bolt -> swaybar->spacer-> heim -> spacer -> flat washer -> lock washer
or something like that. You can play with the short and long spacers position, as that actually changes your effective lever arm about 1/4" - making the bar softer or stiffer (in the front.
You would end up with ...
bolt -> swaybar->spacer-> heim -> spacer -> flat washer -> lock washer
or something like that. You can play with the short and long spacers position, as that actually changes your effective lever arm about 1/4" - making the bar softer or stiffer (in the front.
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Re: T1 sway bar install help! (ASP Z)
So is this correct or backwards? Its hard to see in the picture but I think its bolt, small spacer, end link, large spacer, sway bar, locking nut.
Could you explain more about changing effective lever arm to make it stiffer or not.
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Re: T1 sway bar install help! (mhefner)
That's correct.. my memory was running in reverse :eek:
What we do sometimes is if you use the small spacer at the bar end, it moves the end link further away from the frame bushings of the bar... longer lever arm, softer bar. It's a small change, but on paper it should help. The T1 bars are biased for a little more understeer than I need for autocross work, so I try to shift that balance a bit to the rear.
What we do sometimes is if you use the small spacer at the bar end, it moves the end link further away from the frame bushings of the bar... longer lever arm, softer bar. It's a small change, but on paper it should help. The T1 bars are biased for a little more understeer than I need for autocross work, so I try to shift that balance a bit to the rear.
