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I would buy a SNAP-ON Double Swivel 5/8 6-point Spark Plug Socket.
Part Number is: S9721 I haven't changed the plugs in my car yet but I heard this makes the job A LOT easier.
I've found that just using a smaller 3/8" drive wrench and 5/8 socket with an 8" extension seems to get right back to the rear driver's side without a hitch. If it's too tight, add a swivel. Use a shorter extension for the other driver's side plugs, if needed. Passenger side, you won't have any problems. Pull off the vacuum hose from the brake booster and hold it out of the way and you'll have plenty of room to work.
That snap on double swivel is 42 dollars...and you will probably only use it once in your life time.... a 3/8 drive 5/8th spark plug socket and a swivel and extension did the trick for me...took about 15 minutes to get # 7 in and out... and 15 minutes to do the other 7 plugs... there is a metal clip right over the area where you need to get your hand in # 7 so as to get a hand start for that plug... if you remove that clip, things will be alot easier...and you wont lose as much blood..... :smash: :blueangel:
Be prepared to put on new wires... you may find a bad wire after removing them....
Remove the coilpacks - it's only five bolts and you will have all room you need without having to get special tools.
:cheers: :iagree:
The coil packs are on top of the valve covers... the plugs are below the exhaust manifolds... I cant see how the coil packs are in the way.. I can reach every plug but # seven with ease and the power brake booster is the problem with # seven....
I just changed my plugs to the iridum Bosch. They had the Bosch from Fact. The plugs were fairly easy to change I did buy the Snap-On Socket and it worked well. However the service from Snap_On was :U \
They charger about $49 (if I remember correctly) and $20+ for shipping the socket. :U
I ordered the boot puller also and it was BO. The cost was $15 for the Boot Puller and they shipped the wrong one and charged $20 for shipping. I returned the entire shippment and bought one at local parts house for $7.00
The snap-on socket does work well and I am glad I have mine but I would not order again from SO. :mad
I just changed my plugs to the iridum Bosch. They had the Bosch from Fact. The plugs were fairly easy to change I did buy the Snap-On Socket and it worked well. However the service from Snap_On was :U \
They charger about $49 (if I remember correctly) and $20+ for shipping the socket. :U
I ordered the boot puller also and it was BO. The cost was $15 for the Boot Puller and they shipped the wrong one and charged $20 for shipping. I returned the entire shippment and bought one at local parts house for $7.00
The snap-on socket does work well and I am glad I have mine but I would not order again from SO. :mad
Guys thanks for all the tips....doesnt that clip **** you off on the dvrs side? Helps to have a heavy bag hanging in the garage.....lol
I will have to look at it again with the coil packs off!
Who adjusts the gap by sliding the plug over the gage versus bends with gage/taps to close for gapping the plugs??? I have always just slid the plug along the gage till I reached the proper gap line...but was thinking last nite that it may mess up the electrode when wiggling it to get the gap since it was tight?
I bought Bosch Platinums.,.. the gap was protected with a cardboard collar... I checked all the gaps and they were perfect... I would not slide the gage to adjust the gap... I always use a "U" shaped tool at the base of the grounding electrode to bend it either way
I've changed my plugs about 5 times in the past 5 months. Buy the Snap On Swivel as discussed above. Use a 3/8" extension, either 18 or 24", and things become much easier. Start all plugs by hand and make sure you can spin them in 3-4 rotations - to prevent cross-threading. The Snap On swivel is great to help with threading in #5 and #7 plugs.....especially #7. Good Luck. :thumbs:
Remove the coilpacks - it's only five bolts and you will have all room you need without having to get special tools.
:cheers:
Ha, did not know this ... I actually just removed my coil pack and valve cover and it took me just 5 minutes ...
Thanks for the tip since I will replace my TR6 with TR55
:cheers:
Remove the coilpacks - it's only five bolts and you will have all room you need without having to get special tools.
:cheers:
Ha, did not know this ... I actually just removed my coil pack and valve cover and it took me just 5 minutes ...
Thanks for the tip since I will replace my TR6 with TR55
:cheers:
You removed the valve covers?????? why did you do that????
Or do you mean you removed the coil pack covers... ( the snap on plastic thingies that say Corvette...)
I just used a 3/8 swivel and a 10'' extension , that puts you past all hoses and stuff on the driver side rear plug which is the only one that was hard to get too. :D
Remove the coilpacks - it's only five bolts and you will have all room you need without having to get special tools.
:cheers:
Ha, did not know this ... I actually just removed my coil pack and valve cover and it took me just 5 minutes ...
Thanks for the tip since I will replace my TR6 with TR55
:cheers:You removed the valve covers?????? why did you do that????
Or do you mean you removed the coil pack covers... ( the snap on plastic thingies that say Corvette...)
I took your advice and removed the coil packs on the drivers side....wow how easy the job became....I only had an issue with the screw by the alternator mount....so I never put that one back in....figuring the other four are more than enough to hold the coil pack in place....Thanks for the tip bud!!! :seeya
I took your advice and removed the coil packs on the drivers side....wow how easy the job became....I only had an issue with the screw by the alternator mount....so I never put that one back in....figuring the other four are more than enough to hold the coil pack in place....Thanks for the tip bud!!! :seeya
I just replaced mine as well last Sunday and also removed the coil packs.
It was so easy but I did put that screw back ... should have kept it out.