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im pretty fustrated right now. i got the rear diff out :) , so at least i can swap the rear diff out. but i cant get the throw out bearing line off. and it seems alot of people are having problems when they install there clutches with vibration issues. i hate to say it, but maybe i should bite the bullet and put the car back together and take it to a auto shop to have the clutch done :( .what u guys think http://www.picturejudge.com/memberpi...s/IM000237.JPG
You have time on your side. Use it to your advantage. When you get frustrated or discourage, call it a day and try again when you get some time. It's a car, not the space shuttle. You can do it :cheers: .
You have time on your side. Use it to your advantage. When you get frustrated or discourage, call it a day and try again when you get some time. It's a car, not the space shuttle. You can do it :cheers: .
You have time on your side. Use it to your advantage. When you get frustrated or discourage, call it a day and try again when you get some time. It's a car, not the space shuttle. You can do it :cheers: .
:iagree: I agree unless you are like me and think you are a better mechanic than you really are. If you are really over your head suck it up and get a pro :grouphug: Remember and ounze of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you are like me you may end up breaking something else and a simple job can spiral out of control.
I never claimed to be a mechanic, and have the utmost respect for guys who can do there own work, I wish I could. I guess that explains why a good mechanic gets paid top dollar :cheers:
No way I would quit if I was that far into it. I'm sure you're a decent mechanic since you did your h/c by yourself and nothing blew up so you should be able to finish this too. Plenty of guys here can help you - just do what everybody else here does and ask questions. You've got plenty of time to figure it out and double-check everything.
Remember, nobody's an expert at everything. We all could use a little help every now and then. :cheers:
No way I would quit if I was that far into it. I'm sure you're a decent mechanic since you did your h/c by yourself and nothing blew up so you should be able to finish this too. Plenty of guys here can help you - just do what everybody else here does and ask questions. You've got plenty of time to figure it out and double-check everything.
Remember, nobody's an expert at everything. We all could use a little help every now and then. :cheers:
:iagree:
just get everytihgn balanced at a local shop if you are worried about it
You have time on your side. Use it to your advantage. When you get frustrated or discourage, call it a day and try again when you get some time. It's a car, not the space shuttle. You can do it :cheers: .
:iagree: I totally agree. You have already seperated your self from most by even attempting it. Keep up the motivation and finish it!
If you have gone this far I would judt finish the job. At least try and do it. If there is a vibration you can still take it in after it is all put together. You have to put everything back in anyways.... Kaley
Don’t let the vibration issue mess with your head…….Take your time, reach up and disconnect the line. Once you get the TQ tube out and you have this big smile on your face it will be worth it.
Do not forget to change that 12-dollar pilot bearing too!
FYI, I just got my flywheel clutch and pressure plate and it is assembled. There is no index marks to orientate the flywheel to the pressure plate (that I can see). Make sure you index mark them prior to disassembly to install in your car.
If you feel like you have bitten off more than you can chew, it might be a good time to call a mechanic who knows what he is doing and slip him a few extra bucks for making a house call.
You have the hard work done now, DON'T QUIT. There is a very good article in the July 2003 Corvette Magazine written with the help of the Vette Doctors.
It is step by step including removing the line you are having trouble with. If you can't find a copy send me an email and I will fax it to you. I hate to hear you are getting second thoughts as I'm about to start my clutch and gears very soon. Good luck.
You have the hard work done now, DON'T QUIT. There is a very good article in the July 2003 Corvette Magazine written with the help of the Vette Doctors.
It is step by step including removing the line you are having trouble with. If you can't find a copy send me an email and I will fax it to you. I hate to hear you are getting second thoughts as I'm about to start my clutch and gears very soon. Good luck.
Man,,,, you were doing so good. If you made it this far you can go all the way!!! Get a mechanics mirror and examine the fitting on the throw out unit. Normally it will give you a good working knowledge of what needs to be done to get it to release. I had the EXACT SAME problem with the hydraulic fitting on my Ford truck. It gave me a FIT!!!!! :cuss :cuss :mad but I got it. I had to soak it in PB Blaster over night and it came loose. The mirror help me see how the fitting was constructed and how the little plastic fingers needed to be moved to release the line. If all else fails, get a friend to come over and give it a try.
DO NOT throw in the towel!!!!!!!!
The balance thing is a NO Brainer! Match mark the fly wheel to the crank. Then take fly wheel and pressure plate to a good machine shop and have them balance the fly wheel and then the fly wheel and the pressure plate as a unit...
Thats the same type of fitting that gave me trouble on the F150 . Soak that Bas%$# in WD-40 and get a set of Channel locks, open them up so that they span the length of the fitting and smash that fitting into the coupling and attempt to seperate it I was determined that that piece of crap wasnt going to kick my butt and I got it apart. When you get the small fitting crammed into the long sleave as far as you can with out toooo much force, dont let it pop back out. I grabed the line right next to the small fitting with a set of pliers to hold the fitting into the sleve, then I yanked on the slsve and she seperated! The reason that I recommend soaking it with WD-40 is that I had a bunch of aluminum oxide corrosion on and in the fitting which caused it to give me FITS!!! A better penerating solvent is PB Blaster. If you can find it I HIGHLY recommend getting some!
Bill Curlee
I couldnt get that stupid thing apart. I slid the torque tube a couple inches back, unbolted the slave from the front and then finished removing the drivetrain.
Now that I had plenty of room to work I still couldnt get it, so I used a punch to drive the roll pin out of the slave and then tied up the end in a bag (so it wouldnt drip), and pulled the line, master cylinder and reservoir out the top.
I'll get that thing apart now that I have it out of the car where I can get a good grip on it.