Everytime I put 100 Octane in my 2001 LS1 the check engine light comes on?

If any ones does this or if i can prevent this please post. :confused:

 

1969stingray1969
Please pull up the code that is set on your Drivers Information Console. If the check engine light is on, you have a code or codes that are being set. If you provide us the codes, we can figure it out. I HIGHLY doubt that it is octane related! :nonod:
If you dont know how to dump the codes, just let me know.

Bill C

 

I dont know how to dump the codes if that means bring up whats wrong with it on the DIC.

 

I'd be interested in knowing what brand of gasoline you are using at 100 octane. You using aviation fuel or racing gas? I'd be surprised if the higher octane was the problem. I'll check back in a bit for the tech folks to chime in. :lurk:

 

Why would you use 100 octane? Octane is actually causes a slower burn and will decrease power when used in an engine that doesn't need it. From 93 to 99 one forum member reported a loss of 5.5 hp on a dyno

 

Please go into the Tech Tips section and there is a TIP on how to read your codes. Its real easy and very handy to trouble shoot your problems!
I do it while I'm driving to work or waiting for the wife to finish up her shopping! :D PLEASE make sure that you write down each code that you see prior to clearing them. That way you will be able to see if that code keeps coming back over a period of time.
If you check out the tech tips and have no luck try this:
I recommend that you review the codes by using the following link: http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm

Turn the key to the ON position, but don't start the engine. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a history code (something that has occured in the past) but is fine now. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES".

To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps in this paragraph until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules. NOTE !! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Once you clear the code it is gone from memory.

BC

 

Check out this link for more info about octane than you could possibly need.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/fuel/index.htm

:cheers:

 

Well what codes would I be looking for?

I did it and about 10-15 codes popped up most of them that didn't say no change had a h on the end except for 1 or 2 codes. :confused:

 

I would list all of the codes that you currently have storred. Once you have them written down, clear ALL of the codes!! Then take her for a ride and let it do it's thing. After it is at operating temp and you have driven it for a good 15 min and it has started acting up drive it back home and review the codes. Write them down and put everything in a post.

Some of the codes will be stuff that pops up at random and will not return. If you have a hard fault it will pop up and we can start the repair process!

BC

 

I put Airplane fuel in it. Thats the highest I can get around here.

And I should get it dynoed some time soon and I will dyno it with 92 octane then 100 octane. We'll see whats the best :)

 

More than likely you used LL-100 Av-gas (Low Lead-100) which has as much lead in it as most race fuel. Lead in the fuel will kill the O2 (oxygen) sensors and destroy the catalytic converters. That could be what set the codes. I'm sure someone from this board would be glad to tell you what the codes mean if you post them.

 

Yup....quit putting 100 octane in it, simple really ;)

If you're not at the track or trying to set a dyno queen record then there's no reason at all for it.

 

what did momy and daddy think of the damage?

how many times have they bailed you out before; while you keep doing crazy shiite like this...?

 

:confused: :confused: :lurk:

 

Before you get wrapped around the axel trying to find this .5 amp drain, are you absolutly sure that your battery is 100% good??? :rolleyes:
I have seen batteries that start the car fine but if you leave the stereo on for 10 minutes it goes dead! :eek:
Please,,, take your car to a starter/alternator shop and let them check out the battery and the charging syatem. You might find that it's just the battery!

Keep us informed on what you find!

Bill C


[Modified by Bill Curlee, 6:50 PM 12/17/2003]

 

:skep:

 

:withstupid: :skep: :skep: :skep: :confused: :lolg:

 

The higher the octane rating the slower the fuel (gasoline) burns, it is not ideal to go to a higher octane, it does not increase performance rather the opposite. In a carburetted car you pick up a stumble off the bottom. I assume that the computer is telling you the same. I'm assuming you haven't increased your compression ratio to 13:1 of course.... save your money :conehead

 

Woops!!!! How did thta post get in theis post!!!???!!! :leaving:

SorrIts been a L O N G day!!

BC

 

:iagree: No Av-gas is unleaded, so as stated above, you're trashing your cats and O2 sensors. Quit doing it now, and fess up to the 'rents, so they can get they damage fixed. If you ever get to a no-cat state of modification, still don't do it, as the characteristics of AV-gas are all wrong for auto use. As everyone seems to agree, unless you're getting Knock Retard with prem unleaded (91-94 Oct, depending on your area), there is no reason to go higher.