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The end of my previously fruitless search??
I need rotors that can take the heat of hauling down from high speeds/track abuse with upgraded pads...and I'm on a budget so big brakes are out of the question for the foreseeable future. http://www.stopforce.com
Those are the best rotors you can buy for racing without upgrading the entire system. They are not drilled - the holes are cast into the rotor. You can't do that with Baer Eradispeeds. Rears are less important, but if you have to have the same look try these https://www.kvrperformance.com/world/frameproducts.html
The only time I could see using a Pooch brake rotor would be if it were one of the lightweight titanium rotors.
I'm not impressed with crossdrilling a rotor...even if it's "cast-drilled". The swisscheese holes will diminish the contact area, will cheesegrate your pads and will act as stress risers. Even the Porches crack the drilled rotors with racing use.
Use DRM front ducts and direct the air to the inside aspect of the rotor/hub, so that the stream of air can flow into the vanes. sj
If you don't have ducting it won't matter what you put.
I have the neat-o but mostly annoying selective ride control which I understand makes installing ducting impossible. Also chances are I won't be tracking the car for a while, it's sort of a secondary concern I suppose...mainly what sort of flogging I put on the brakes is reducing my speed from '150+' to 'semi-reasonable' in a smooth, non-panic manner as empty highway space runs out and I must pass other cars...current rotors (stock) cower in fear and then fall down and play dead, emerging from the ordeal with 3rd-degree burns and multiple lacerations (discoloration, pad material deposits, and fine cracks).
I know what you're thinking: "Well jeez just take it easy on your brakes silly!!". I know...but it can't hurt to give them a fighting chance right??
Rotors getting blue? Heat checked? Grooved? Now you're talking!
Here's what I do: By a set of stock rotors and a set of good high temp roadracing pads: Either Performance Friction 93 up front or Hawk HT-10's. Performance friction 90 on the rear, or Hawk blue 9012. Use these for track days only.
Take them out and just run the **** out of them. When your brakes start to go away a little, then back off on the brakes and just run the car right up into the corner and throw it sideways...not the prettiest line but it will slow you down enough to let your brakes cool. Run like this a few laps until your front tires get greasy and then go back to a standard line with full braking. Rinse. Repeat.
QUOTE
I have the neat-o but mostly annoying selective ride control which I understand makes installing ducting impossible. Also chances are I won't be tracking the car for a while, it's sort of a secondary concern I suppose...mainly what sort of flogging I put on the brakes is reducing my speed from '150+' to 'semi-reasonable' in a smooth, non-panic manner as empty highway space runs out and I must pass other cars...current rotors (stock) cower in fear and then fall down and play dead, emerging from the ordeal with 3rd-degree burns and multiple lacerations (discoloration, pad material deposits, and fine cracks).
:rofl: :lolg: :lolg: :lolg: :lolg: :D
Great explanation!!!! I know how you feel. I toasted a set once!
I have Brembo cross drilled with cryogenic freezing and EBC "red stuff" pads and those pesky 140 to 80 MPH slowdowns have had no noticable effects.... except my forehead on the windshield.... good combo :steering:
Brembo brakes & rotors (what all major sports car manufacturers use...Porsche / BMW / etc.) IMHO are the best brakes on the planet. Not considering the new Porsche ceramic system.
Unfortunately they are priced off the planet also.
I went with the Wilwood SL-6R's.
John, I should have the ABS unit bled this weekend...I will give you an update afterwards.