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My passenger window is stuck in the closed position. I can hear a click when I hit the button to put it down but the motor isnt kicking in. how can I test it or roll it down manually to see if it is just binding up? I have the door panel off and can see the motor but I dont really want to mess anything up from this point on. Thanks Doc
Sit in the passenger seat.... hold the window down button....... slam the door. This should release the window. You might not want to slam the door too hard....... just a firm shut usually works.
Solution is to use the window a few times per week. If that doesn't work, then you probably need a new regulator, as some do go bad. Also could be a loose wire connector in the door wire loom, but 99% of the problem is just a stuck window.
Common C5 problem. :cuss You'll need a new power window motor/regulator assembly. $268 for the part if you're out of warranty.
You might get the piece of crap to work again for a while by holding the down button as you slam the door shut. SLAM it like you are mad at it. This may get it working for a while, but you WILL need a new motor/reg assembly eventually.
You'll need a new power window motor/regulator assembly. $268 for the part if you're out of warranty.
You might get the piece of crap to work again for a while by holding the down button as you slam the door shut. SLAM it like you are mad at it. This may get it working for a while, but you WILL need a new motor/reg assembly eventually.
Tom :steering:
Tom,
I'm on my 2nd 'vette and both had this problem. I usually have this problem about twice per year and slamming the door has always worked.
My theory is..... since the parts are virtually the same on both doors, the reason the passenger side jams more often is because it gets less use that the driver's window.
:iagree: I own a new '04 C5 and already had to replace my passenger window regulator (window got stuck in the up position and I could hear clicking in the door when I pressed the button). That part is a known problem with all C5s. The dealership can replace the component in one day - problem fixed. Shouldn't have to slam door, do a kabuki dance and use the passenger window all the time for it to function properly.
Fixed mine for $0 and about 1.5 hours of my own time. I took the motor out and took the cable housing apart. Regreased the inners and sprayed WD-40 in the cable tubes. Slapped it back together and put back in. Two weeks and all is fine so far. Total savings: $270 for the motor + $130 install = $400 if I had the dealer fix it. I don't have warranty so you do what you have to do. :D :party:
My theory is..... since the parts are virtually the same on both doors, the reason the passenger side jams more often is because it gets less use that the driver's window.
I hear this a lot but my experience proves this to be untrue. Actually all vert owners will prove this to be untrue.
You see, when we open the tonneau cover to put the top down, BOTH windows go down at the same time. Thus both windows are used pretty much the same amount of time. The passenger side get used as often as the driver's side.
I hear this a lot but my experience proves this to be untrue. Actually all vert owners will prove this to be untrue.
You see, when we open the tonneau cover to put the top down, BOTH windows go down at the same time. Thus both windows are used pretty much the same amount of time. The passenger side get used as often as the driver's side.
Tom :steering:
Tom,
I hear 'ya about the 'verts. I'm not saying that some of these window problems aren't a weak motor, and certainly on a coin toss or a 50/50 basis it could be the passenger one only that is bad..... but........ 90% of the time when you read about a stuck window, its the passenger side that is stuck and not the driver's side.
Any theory why its mostly the passenger side window motors that are weak??
And..... if the motor is weak.... wouldn't you expect those windows with weaker motors to move slower than the driver's side?? Nope....... I've timed both of my C5s..... both are the same speed.
For my stuck windows on both my 2000 and 2003 Corvettes.... I'm holding out that the regulators were just stuck from non-use. If my 2003 continues to stick even with me giving them a weekly workout, then I'll let the dealer tear into my passenger door and replace the assembly.
You'd think GM would have fixed this problem after 6 years. :smash:
I don't think its a problem with weak motors. Before I tore mine apart, I managed to get the motor "unstuck" and it started running again. I checked the current draw of the motor on the bench and compared it to a new motor that someone had bought for themsleves to replace, you guessed it, the passenger side on a '99 coupe. They were the same which indicated to me there was no degradation in the torque of my used motor compared to the new one. The problem is, when the regulator doesn't get used often, the grease and lubricant in the cable housing gets stiff and the pullys and gear gets dry. After regreasing these joints and strategically spraying WD-40 in the right places, the regulator is rejuvenated. I think the driver's side gets used more often than some people think. How many times do you go through the drive-thru fast food joint or drive-up bank teller backwards and roll your passenger side window down. :jester Anyway, this is my theory based on experience and I'm sticking to it! :cheers:
MikeyD, I had the same problem with the driver window. It will not work for a day, then start working and does fine for a while, then stops again. It is a 2000 with 14K miles so it isn't used too much. Can you post what I need to do to "overhaul/lube" mine as well?
MikeyD, I had the same problem with the driver window. It will not work for a day, then start working and does fine for a while, then stops again. It is a 2000 with 14K miles so it isn't used too much. Can you post what I need to do to "overhaul/lube" mine as well?
Thanks for your help
I'll take some pics of another friend's window regulator that I'm getting read to 'rejuvenate' and show where the lube points are. I'm not gauranteeing that this is the case for ALL window regulators as I'm sure there are a few legit bad motors but I'm thinking that in most cases its just a binding and friction issue with certain pivot and rubbing points becoming dry from lack of use.
Just had my regulator replaced by my dealer under warranty. It was intermittent for almost 3 months before it finally quit. Every time I brought it in to be replaced the freaking thing would work and they would not do the repair. Very frustrating!
My 2000 coupe, with only 9000 miles on it, seems to have a sticking passenger window switch. It'll go down using the passenger switch, but not back up (on a consistent basis). Using the driver's side switch, it's never a problem to lower/raise the passenger window. Seems to indicate the motor is good, perhaps a poor contact or ?? Is there any on-line help to show me how to get to the switch? Anyone with the same experience who can lend insight? Thanks.
Had the same problem with mine this morning, but when I tried using the passenger window switch, the window went down like nothing was wrong. Then I tried it again with the drivers door switch, and it was fine. I haven't been driving the car as much lately due to getting some things fixed next weekend, and well......cars don't like to sit.......