Ok heres the deal, Im driving my car last night to meet the girl so she can grab a bite to eat after work, as Im driving down the highway Ive got the windows down, just cruising, everythings cool. Quick note (the display screen had been telling me low tire pressure in my right rear tire all night, well I put air in it, but too much so they it was telling me too much tire pressure) anyways as Im driving down the highway all of a sudden my radio turns off and all of my guages EXCEPT speedo and tach just drop! Then the messages "SERVICE ENEGINE SOON", "REDUCED BATTERY POWER", "HIGH TIRE PRESSURE RR" and "LOW FUEL" start coming across the display scrren. I try to turn the radio on, NOTHING. Try to put my windows up, NOTHING. Pull into Whataburger where Im meeting the girl, turn the car off, let it sit there for a few minutes, start the car back up, everything seems fine. Keyword...seems! All the guages are working, nothing is reading across the display screen, however, my driver side window goes up but not the passenger side window! :confused: So I try pressing the window button on the passenger side door, nothing. Everything is working except all buttons and everything on the passenger side!? Has anyone EVER had this problem or heard of it?? PLEASE HELP ME!!! :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

Check your fuses for starters.
My first thought is you have a failing battery, check the voltage.
When voltage drops out it could affect alot of systems at once.

 

The C5 is heavily computerized. Secondly it uses the wire harnesses to trasmit power and communication between computers. So there are several things that can cause this. I have had it happen twice. Both times I got reduced engine power, service engine soon, service TCS or TAC or something like that. I pulled the codes from the DIC and saw several communication faults. Cleared the codes and the car was fine. In my case it was the computer loosing track of where the drive by wire throttle was positioned.

Pull your codes (don't remember off hand. I have to be sitting the car) I think you hold gauges button and hit fuel 4 times quickly. If you don't have the manuals post your codes here and someone will tell you what you have. Most likely you had a communication fault. It could be a short in the tire pressure system, bad ground, bad battery or simply a computer glitch.

 

Sounds like the window sensor in the passenger door went out. I had the same thing happen to me and the pass window would not roll up and the gauges all went to "0" even while the car was running.

VR :cheers:

 

Thanks for everyones help! Im not quite sure how to get the codes to post up and tell you what they are, Im a newbie in the Vette. So please help me a little more with that.

vetterdstr- As soon as I check and see if its anything else I guess Ill take the car to a dealership and have them check the sensor.

Thanks once again for all your help!!

 

Oh I almost forgot, once I got to Whataburger and turned the car off and let it sit for a few minutes then started it back up, all the guages were fine, including the battery voltage guage, soo could it still be a possibility of a bad battery?

 

if it was a bad battery, nothing would work and it would not start... or even worse, the battery could be leaking acid on the computer... get to the dealership and let them handle it. :yesnod:

VR :cheers:

 

Replace the battery, that is the problem, it happened to me once before, and i switched the battery problem went away, just make sure you get a good battery....optima, die hard..interstate. Do not buy the same batt.

 

Thanks Dominic, Im still going to check the codes, but if you say thats the problem, then I'll go ahead and check that too.

Check your IM's

 

Woke up this afternoon, walked out to the car, put the key in turned it to the Run position, tried putting the window up, and everything worked just fine. :confused: Checked the voltage on the battery and that was just fine also. So I guess everything is ok, or should I still check for codes just incase?

 

Check codes

 

:iagree:
Check codes. Below is some information I have save from previous posts.
Pulling DIC codes:
1. Have pen & paper ready.
2. Turn key on and let message cycle through (Corvette by Chevy).
3. Press and hold the options button down.
4. Press the fuel button rapidly 4 times.
5. Write down the codes and make a post of the codes.

There are two kinds of codes, "Current" and "History," designated with a letter, "C" or "H" following the code numbers. A current code indicates that the malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed in that module sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it is possible it's evidence of a previous problem. Now solved, that was not removed by clearing codes. More likely is that a history code indicates an intermittent malfunction.

Once the DIC has displayed all 11 modules, the system goes into the manual mode, which allows selection of each module, using combinations of DIC buttons. The manual mode can also be entered at any time during the automatic sequence by pressing ANY button EXCEPT "E/M". Once the DIC displays "manual diagnostics", you may select a particular module by pressing the "Options" button to go forward or the "Trip" button to go back. If multiple codes are present in the displayed module; press "Gages" To move forward or "Fuel" to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press the "E/M" button. If you want to erase or clear codes, press "Reset" for each module. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.

Good luck.

 

Nate,

I will be in dallas this weekend, if you need help or need me to a-tap the car let me know, i will have all with me. I am making a trip to TSP to have some work done on a T/A i picked up in the mean time. Just give me a call and i will meet you if you need

 

UPDATE: I just ran out to the car and pulled the codes. Are you ready for this? WOW...I am throwing HELLA codes, here are all the codes that I was able to write down:

U1255 H
U1064 H
U1160 H
U1088 H
U1176 H
U1016 H
U1255 H
U1301 H
U1040 H
U1096 H
B1527
B5027
B2252
B2282
B2262

Quite the list of codes huh? :mad :confused: Kind of worries me! The previous owner of the car (Mr. Big) said its just the battery and hes had the same problem before, what does everyone suggest I do?

 

Here is a link that has a Word document that can be downloaded with a list of codes. https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=26&TopicID=1

A search of the Word doc for the codes you listed shows:
U1255 Serial Data Line malfunction
U1064 Loss Of Communication with DCM (No SOH Message Received -RFA
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
U1088 (not listed in doc, is probably some kind of loss of communication)
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1016 Loss Of Communication with PCM (No SOH Message Received -RFA
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction -RFA
U1301 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to battery Refer to Data Link Connector System Check in Wiring System
U1040 Loss of Communication with TCS
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC (No State of Health Message)
B1527 DIC Switch 4 Signal Short to GND "OPTIONS"
B5027 (not listed in doc)
B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault DCM-LEFT
B2282 Battery #1 Fault DCM-LEFT
B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit DCM-L

Do not ask me what it all means. Maybe somebody else could help interpret the info. I would suggest you keep a record of the codes, clear them, and then check for codes periodically, to see what comes back. Since you do not know the cars history, you do not know what work might have done that could have caused the codes.

My best guess would be to have the battery checked and replaced if necessary, but I am not a very experienced mechanic. If you get a new battery, then clear codes again after the new battery is installed. A good replacement battery is the Ortima Red Top (I got mine at Pep Boys).



[Modified by MagRedSkull, 7:22 PM 4/26/2004]

 

Try tightening the red "HOT" lug right next to the battery, between the battery and the top of the right fender. This is not on the battery but a hot lug kinda like a grounding lug except it's red, just a lug w/ 2 red wires on it and a nut. I experienced your same problems and this fixed mine.

 

Thanks for everyones help. Im going to try to get everything fixed and taken care of today. Ive had several people tell me they had the same problem that Im having and ways to fix it, so I guess Im going to try each thing and see if it fixes my problem or not. I'll keep everyone updated, once again, thanks for your help!

 

You said everything is working now right - Well I would clear all of the codes and then go for a drive like normal. If nothing else is brought up and the problem seems to go away I would tend to guess it's the battery. There have been several post lately on a dead or weakened cell in a batter has cause a lot of weird issues on the C5

How old is the battery in your car?

 

:iagree:
i had the same problem.. if you kinka play with the accordion covered wire
in the door jam it should temporarlly fix it.

 

UPDATE: I had a member off the board email me, telling me he had the same problem and something I might want to try. Here is the email he sent me. "Heyt bud,

I had the same exact problem on my 2000 Coupe, except driver side.

It turned out to be a short in the wire bundle which enters the door from the car. In my case, I didnt have to take the door apart (I found out after I took it all apart) you can get to it from the underneath. Stay with me for a second, there's a connector under your dash, near the door with a wire in it which looks like a clear tube but with a stripped stranded wire in it. The tube is a little short to reach the connector so the wire hits the metal and shorts out under there. Wrap some electrical tape around it. By the way, mine was doing it when the weather was changing. The problem gets progressively worse, 'till one night I was 50 miles from home and had to drive with no guages and my dash lit up like a xmas tree. Good luck. This should cost you maybe $1.50 for an expensive roll of electrical tape. As you're wrapping it, keep pulling it supper tight.

-Stan"

I looked but I wasnt able to find what Stan was talking about (clear wiring) so I havent quite seen if that fixes the problem. Next I had a guy tell me to check an area right by the battery that sometimes comes loose, checked that, it was fine. Then I just checked the fuse for the window just to make sure, its also fine.

Im not quite sure how old the battery is, I bought the car from a member, so he would have to chime in and tell how old it is. I will also note the he, the previous owner, said the same thing happened to him and it was the battery, so this may possibly just be the same thing with the battery again. He said that he doesnt know why, but he bought the same kind of battery that he had a problem with before, so hopefully thats the problem.