engine break in period article.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 586
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From: Idabel OK
engine break in period article.
Not sure what to think about this. Its sounds like he knows what he is talking about, but i'll let you be the judge.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Drifting
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
I have always been a fan of "If you want it to run hard, break it in hard" and have done this with the last 3 high-performance cars I have owned.
When LPE did a leak down test on my engine before installing the blower, the engine was tighter than a gnats behind - this with 17k miles on it. My engines have consistently dyno'd higher than average stock. And I don't burn any oil either. Hmmm.
On the Vette it is important to break in the rear end as instructed, other than that, go freaky, in my opinion.
I can't wait to see some of the posts on this one :D
F
When LPE did a leak down test on my engine before installing the blower, the engine was tighter than a gnats behind - this with 17k miles on it. My engines have consistently dyno'd higher than average stock. And I don't burn any oil either. Hmmm.
On the Vette it is important to break in the rear end as instructed, other than that, go freaky, in my opinion.
I can't wait to see some of the posts on this one :D
F
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 5
From: West Coast
Re: engine break in period article. (Flintstone)
I read the article and agree with some parts of it BUT not completely. A motorcycle and bike are different in the areas of transmission and differential. The LS1 and LS6 come with SYNTHETIC engine oil from the factory. I believe the ring design/type and cylinder finish on those motors is different from other engines.
Would I run a $50K car hard when the manual states not to for the first 500 miles?? NOPE
I believe the transmission and differential need a break-in period MORE than the engine does. Once those break-in, you can run the car hard.
Would I run a $50K car hard when the manual states not to for the first 500 miles?? NOPE
I believe the transmission and differential need a break-in period MORE than the engine does. Once those break-in, you can run the car hard.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,147
Likes: 32
From: Dallas TX
Re: engine break in period article. (Flintstone)
I have always been a fan of "If you want it to run hard, break it in hard" and have done this with the last 3 high-performance cars I have owned.
When LPE did a leak down test on my engine before installing the blower, the engine was tighter than a gnats behind - this with 17k miles on it. My engines have consistently dyno'd higher than average stock. And I don't burn any oil either. Hmmm.
On the Vette it is important to break in the rear end as instructed, other than that, go freaky, in my opinion.
I can't wait to see some of the posts on this one :D
F
When LPE did a leak down test on my engine before installing the blower, the engine was tighter than a gnats behind - this with 17k miles on it. My engines have consistently dyno'd higher than average stock. And I don't burn any oil either. Hmmm.
On the Vette it is important to break in the rear end as instructed, other than that, go freaky, in my opinion.
I can't wait to see some of the posts on this one :D
F
There are a handful of people whose brain I have nitpicked about this and they range from Hondas to German cars to Vettes.
The vast majority of them whose cars dyno higher than other similar cars or whose cars are freaks all drove the **** out of them from day one. No driving it below a certain rpm for a certain number of miles.
Every performance car I buy from now on will definitely be driven hard from the beginning.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,396
Likes: 2
From: North Manchester Indiana
Re: engine break in period article. (kumar75150)
kinda different,, but my russian motorcycle had strick instructions to not run it hard until after break in,, of course, it is air cooled,,the dealw as the pistons would expand faster than the jugs and cause scoring.....they needed to become aquainted,,(lol) before I could run it up to 50,,,lol,,,,but I have seen the deal that running two like motorcyles differently from new will make a major difference. I have friends that bought two new 650 ricers and one rode the **** outa his and the other puzzied his,, the beat one was faster and felt stronger,,but it did have more motor noises...My cars,, I never last until after break in to romp on them....never had a problem ,,,,,
Pro
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 621
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
I think you can be too conservative in the break in period and have problems with the rings not seating well. I broke my in by keeping the rpms below 3500 for 250 miles, but then brought if up to 5000 rpms for the next 250, and finished with redline for the next 500 miles. My car burns absolutely NO oil, runs 0-60 in under 5 seconds, and is right at the 13 second mark in the quarter mile (ie a strong stock motor). The most important thing is to vary the rpms as much as possible during the break in period, but don't baby it for 500 miles and then let it rip. :nonod:
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 11,526
Likes: 115
From: Arlington TX
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
I have always been easy in the first 500 miles on a new car. There are other things that need to break in not just the motor but the trans and rear end. That being said though I also sometimes wonder why I bother since I won't keep the car forever and I don't know that a proper break in will make any difference in 50k miles? I also wonder (except for when I go to the track) why bother using Mobil 1 in my Z06 when I don't use it in my other cars. With all the new gizmos on new cars I don't want one with over 100k miles let someone else worry about it and I think break in or not these motors should last 100k miles if not modified.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,427
Likes: 2
From: Fountain Inn, South Carolina
Re: engine break in period article. (rgregory)
I was easy with varied speeds making sure I got plenty of shifts out of the A4 for about the first 50 miles. From there I got a little aggresive to the 100 mile mark. Then I went to the track :smash:
Been driving it hard ever since for the last 5 years and 45,000 miles (to include track time). Oil changes every 6,000 - 9,000 mile. I have never had to do any mechanical repairs except for my first set of brakes and shocks last week.
You guys need to learn to trust your Vette :cheers: ..... After all, haven't you heard :confused: .... This is a sports car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not a china doll !!!!!!!
Been driving it hard ever since for the last 5 years and 45,000 miles (to include track time). Oil changes every 6,000 - 9,000 mile. I have never had to do any mechanical repairs except for my first set of brakes and shocks last week.
You guys need to learn to trust your Vette :cheers: ..... After all, haven't you heard :confused: .... This is a sports car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not a china doll !!!!!!!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 733
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From: Rapid City SD
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
Has anyone tried a dyno break-in?
I'm curious if that is a valid method and how good the results are. I don't know if I can stand taking the 2+ weeks it will take to break in my z06 otherwise (it should be here monday - i can't wait :) )
I'm curious if that is a valid method and how good the results are. I don't know if I can stand taking the 2+ weeks it will take to break in my z06 otherwise (it should be here monday - i can't wait :) )
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 270
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From: granada hills california
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
I looked up to one of chevys legends ''SMOKEY YUNICK'' . He said break it in the way you intend on driving it. I have a 2001 zo6 and I do have to add a drop of oil between changes. If you break your vette the way the factory says to you better go to costco and buy a pallet full of mobil1 and rent a storage space for it. I can just picture that beautiful new vette going down the freeway at 65 in 6th at 1500 rpm, cylinder pressure is high ,. oil rings attempt to scrape oil off cylinder walls just before the heat from combustion travels by the unseated rings burning oil and after time glazing cylinder making the seating of the rings virtually impossable.I fire a new motor up run it for 10 minutes while i check over everything then "change oil" then i go drive it around watching temp and oil pressure , then "change oil". then repeat as i drive harder and harder. Never had a problem have some motors with 50,000 miles driven hard every day , never missed a lick.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Re: engine break in period article. (stngh8r)
Not sure what to think about this. Its sounds like he knows what he is talking about, but i'll let you be the judge.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Re: engine break in period article. (Richin Chicago)
I bought my 02 ZO6 in Texas and drove it back to CT. I tried to keep the engine RPM's under 5K :rolleyes: and for the most part was successful :D . I varried the RPM's alot and was agressive getting up to speed.
At about 850 miles on the trip back to CT, I had to put a peskey mustang to shame and let her rip! :D :D I droped kicked it into third and was able to top out third and get half way through 4th before the wife beat my arm into a bruised and battered pulp. I would say that I drive it hard and it has EXCELLENT performance qualities. I have 17,000 miles on it now and it runs GREAT. During the trip down to and the trip back from Bowling Green Ky plus all of the driving around ( a total of about 3500 miles) she did not burn ANY oil! I avaraged 73 MPH for both trips and with a fully loaded car I still got 28.5 MPG :thumbs:
I'm for the theory of running it hard RPM wise but believe GM when they say to let the rear and trans break in properly!
BC
At about 850 miles on the trip back to CT, I had to put a peskey mustang to shame and let her rip! :D :D I droped kicked it into third and was able to top out third and get half way through 4th before the wife beat my arm into a bruised and battered pulp. I would say that I drive it hard and it has EXCELLENT performance qualities. I have 17,000 miles on it now and it runs GREAT. During the trip down to and the trip back from Bowling Green Ky plus all of the driving around ( a total of about 3500 miles) she did not burn ANY oil! I avaraged 73 MPH for both trips and with a fully loaded car I still got 28.5 MPG :thumbs:
I'm for the theory of running it hard RPM wise but believe GM when they say to let the rear and trans break in properly!
BC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,132
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From: Morganton, NC, USA
Re: engine break in period article. (Jagrmaister)
As I understand "break-in" of a new engine, you want all the parts that slide and rub against each other to "wear-in" so that their individual surfaces conform to each other. Of course, all this happens with oil lubrication present, but lube film theory (which I won't get in to because of its complexity) says that high points of mating parts will contact metal-to-metal. This is where the "wear-in" occurs. Looking closely at the auto engine, at high RPM's, the pistons are going to go a little further up and down the cylinder and other parts like the rocker arms are going to deflect a little more, etc., etc., etc. So,
you really want to make some high RPM excursions in the break-in period so all such parts to "wear-in" in the places that they will see during performance driving. :cheers:
you really want to make some high RPM excursions in the break-in period so all such parts to "wear-in" in the places that they will see during performance driving. :cheers:
