I have a problem too. My left headlight will open, and illuminate. But when I turn it off, it closes, completely, and then raises back up about 80% from full open. Passenger side is fine. So happens that this Broken" side is the side that I replaced with a Brass gear, for no good reason at all. Has worked fine for months, until this happened yesterday.
I am still under warranty, but wonder what kind of repnse I am going to get with HIDs installed, and cable ties surrounding the actuator?
Any help for a "home fix" would be greatly appreciated.
John

 

This is a pretty common problem.
There is actually a GM service bulletin on it. The Drivers side headlight sits a little out of line. and after some time it wears out the gear (which is plastic) and will also start to chew up the little white plastic stops.

The GM parts include 3 washers (spacers) and 2 plastic stops. You'll need to remove the headlight assembly and install the spacers. The total time to do the repair is less than an hour. The parts cost about $20 at the dealer.

The other thing you might want to do is replace the plastic gear inside the motor. There is a guy on Ebay that sells new brass gears for about $30. The project is a little more involved as you need to pop the motor open and glue it back together with epoxy (JB Weld). It took about an hour to do this repair also but you'll need to let the epoxy dry before reinstalling the motor into the car.

You may not need to do this second repair if the first one solves the problem.

No matter what you will need to do the first repair. I lived with the problem for several months before finding out that GM actually knows of the problem.

The service bulletin number is #00-08-42-002. If you go to the dealer and tell them you need the following parts for the afore mentioned bulletin you'll have no problem.

Part #'s 11505463 Washer 3
16524060 Insulator 2

I hope this helps

 

[QUOTE=1NYCGUY]This is a pretty common problem.
There is actually a GM service bulletin on it. The Drivers side headlight sits a little out of line. and after some time it wears out the gear (which is plastic) and will also start to chew up the little white plastic stops.

I appreciate the help, but this is the side that I already replaced with the Brass gear....any more clues?
Thanks,
JD

 

Great. This is exactly what I did. I replaced the drivers side gear and the problem went away temporarily. Then I started getting exactly what you are seeing. It only happens to the drivers side. (correct?)

This service bulletin and the fix that I detailed with the new washers will fix it.

As soon as I installed the new washers and stoppers the problem went away. It's been 6 months and no more headlight problems.

Let me know if this helps.

 

NYC,

I sure appreciate your help here.
I'll let you know how it works out.
Unfortunately, my car will be at 21st century Muscle cars for the next week or two...priorities ya know
Headlight farted out on my way up there.

Just trying to line everything out for when I get her back home.
JD

 

Abraham,
Don't know if this relates to your problem or not, but the headlamps on my 2k hdtp wouldn't turn on, or pop-up. I had to raise each one manually and hold back on the flash-to-pass lever, which is the only way I could get the lights on, so I could get home one night. The next day I took it to my local dealer. On the work order they state the cause as: BCM NO GROUNDING HEADLAMP RELAY. Labor was described as: REPLACE AND REPROGRAM BCM. Parts was listed as: 1 C 9381409 2560. I believe the first -1- is the number of parts, and the -2560- might be technician's #. Hard to tell trying to read the W.O.
This happened about over 4 years ago, and I've had no problem since.
It was warranty work.

 

No problem if you need any other information feel free to PM me. For what it's worth I've included the instructions from GM's service System along with the diagram for fixing the Drivers headlight.

[I]Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.

Correction

Important
The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.



Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown.

 

Johndirt: Door problems are frequently the "acutator," about $350 from the dealer.

Regarding fuses, they can have a small fracture that is indiscernable, but when powered up they fail to convey power. I've seen people struggle with problems and only in total frustration change the fuse and fix the problem. Just change the fuse to be sure, and go from there...

All the best.

 

Check your battery connections and make sure they are tight. I had the same problem and after asking the same question here on the forum this is all it took. Goodluck

 

NYCGUY,
SUCCESS!!!
I owe you one!!
JD

 

Congratulations,


Glad I could help....

 

To those who note headlight raising and lowering problems such as down and partially back up, down but continues to run, etc., the problem is seldom the gear that many rush to change, but the actuator.

In fact, because of potential actuator problems I'd avoid the metal gear since if it "runs on" it could tear up things, whereas the nylon (or whatever) stock gear does not.

All the best.