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Intermittent Code C1214

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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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Default Intermittent Code C1214

I keep getting code C1214. I know it's a solenoid relay valve, but where is it located? I'd like to check its physical condition and replace if necessary. I am getting this code about 6-7 times a week.
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 10:01 PM
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I'm also getting this code and have been getting great help from Bill. Check out the thread for "Need advice/help". It may help
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 10:07 PM
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Its probably the EXACT same or simular problem that GKrenn is having. Check out his post, follow along with the recommended troubleshooting procedures that I will provide and let's see if we can get it fixed. Please do not be afraid to as any and all questions.

The EBTCM and the BPMV are the components that are giving you problems. More than likley it is a wiring or connection issue that is easy to fix. Your EBTCM and the BPMV can be located in the front or rear. Check out GKrenn's post to see how to identify it.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 9, 2004 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Its probably the EXACT same or simular problem that GKrenn is having. Check out his post, follow along with the recommended troubleshooting procedures that I will provide and let's see if we can get it fixed. Please do not be afraid to as any and all questions.

The EBTCM and the BPMV are the components that are giving you problems. More than likley it is a wiring or connection issue that is easy to fix. Your EBTCM and the BPMV can be located in the front or rear. Check out GKrenn's post to see how to identify it.

BC
Bill, THANKS so much for pointing me in the right direction. As soon as I read that thread it all makes sense. My EBTCM is front mounted and is right in front of the power steering pump pulley that I exploded about 2 weeks ago. This is when my issue started happening. When the pulley ripped off it most likely pulled the harness or a wire on it. I am waiting for my car to cool down so I can start tinkering in that area.

:flag
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by diynoob
Bill, THANKS so much for pointing me in the right direction. As soon as I read that thread it all makes sense. My EBTCM is front mounted and is right in front of the power steering pump pulley that I exploded about 2 weeks ago. This is when my issue started happening. When the pulley ripped off it most likely pulled the harness or a wire on it. I am waiting for my car to cool down so I can start tinkering in that area.

:flag
Here is some more info:
Circuit Description
The solenoid valve relay supplies power to the solenoid valves in the BPMV. The solenoid valve relay, located in the EBCM, is activated whenever the ignition switch is in the ON position and no faults are present. Power is provided to the solenoid valves through the relay from CKT 1242 going into terminal D of the EBCM. The solenoid valve relay remains engaged until the ignition is turned off or a failure is detected.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
DTC C1214 will set anytime the solenoid valve relay is commanded on and the solenoid valve relay voltage is less than 8 volts, and ignition voltage is greater than 10.5 volts.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
ABS/TCS/Active Handling (if equipped with RPO JL4) are disabled.


Indicators that turn on:
ABS indicator
Car Icon (TCS indicator)
Messages displayed on the DTC:
Service ABS
Service Traction System
Service Active HNDLG (if equipped with Active Handling RPO JL4)
Conditions for Clearing the DTC


Condition for DTC is no longer present and scan tool clear DTC function is used.
Fifty ignition cycles have passed with no DTCs detected.
Diagnostic Aids


It is very important that a thorough inspection of the wiring and connectors be performed. Failure to carefully and fully inspect wiring and connectors may result in misdiagnosis, causing part replacement with reappearance of the malfunction.
If an intermittent malfunction exists refer to Intermittent and Poor Connections in Diagrams, Diagnostic Aids.
The Relays are integral to the EBCM and are not serviceable.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to step numbers on the diagnostic table.


Checks for a short to ground in CKT 1242.
Checks for an internal short in the BPMV.
Checks for an open in CKT 1242.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 06:28 AM
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Please let us know what ypu find worng and what you had to do to correct it.

BC
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 01:19 AM
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The EBTCM is really two modules! The EBCM and the BPCM The BPCM is a NON SERVICEABLE unit that is connected to the EBTCM. There are 4 screws that hold the two halves together. The manual directs the tech to remove the unit to service it. That would require removal of 6 brake lines. I would clean the area around the parting line of the module and the plug and see if it can be seperated while it still is connected to the brake lines.
The two modules need 12 VDC from the two fuses and Ground

Grounds are known problem areas on corvetts and it is highly recommended that anytime that there problems, the module grounds should be cleaned, examined and the crimped on ground eyelet replaced if necessary by SOLDERING on a new one.

The ground for the rear mounted EBTCM is G-402 which is located on the rear passengers frame rail in the wheel well behind the rear tire.

The ground for the front mounted EBTCM is G-101 which is located on the top of the front drivers frame rail inboard of the front of the windshield washer fluid storrage tank. I may have misstated the location of this ground location in other post .

The shop manual calls out the use of a special pin out box for reading the values. I will tell you what the numbers or letters are on the plug or circuit board and back that up with the color of the wire going to that pin or plug. That way you will not need the pin out box.

All readings will be referenced to GROUND unless specified other wise. Make sure that you use a GOOD clean ground!!!

Alright, here we go!

Disconnect the EBTCM plug. Using the DC volt meter, volts position (scale that will read 12 volts DC), read the following pins on the wiring harness with the ignition in the ON/RUN position (engine OFF). You must get "battery voltage" If the battery is reading 11.7 volts, you will/ should see 11.7 volts at these pins
a. D = Battery Positive voltage (solenoid voltage) red wire
b E = Battery Positive voltage ( pump motor) red wire
c A = Ignition positive voltage. brown wire

Switch the meter to the restistance/Ohm position and go to the megohm scale. With the ignition OFF, read the pin B to ground. Black wire with white stripe.
You should get VERY close to ZERO ohms. (.01 -.02 will be OK)

Read pins D to B. Should be infinite/open

LAST RESORT!

If the above readings are correct, you can seperate the EBTCM from the BPMV by removing the 4 screws. It should seperate in half by pulling directly apart. Do NOT twist or seperate the top or bottom only. There are two circuit board mounted plugs that the pins from the BPMV plug in to. Once the two module halves are seperated, check for dirt, corossion and damaged componets.
Read terminal 7 on the circuit board to the EBTCM case. Should read infinite/open.
If all of these readings are good. you will probably need a new EBTCM. If it were me, I would check the relay on the solenoid valve relay on the circuit board to make sure it is good. If you have to get this far I will give you other procedures!

The EBTCM and the BPMV should be able to be purchased seperately according to the shop manual.

Hope you find a problem somewhere else.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

BC
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 08:39 PM
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Bill, how does the harness disconnect from the EBTCM, I want to make sure I don't damage something taking it off. Also, it appears that there are two wires coming out of the bottom, what are they? Grounds?
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by GKrenn
Bill, how does the harness disconnect from the EBTCM, I want to make sure I don't damage something taking it off. Also, it appears that there are two wires coming out of the bottom, what are they? Grounds?
The main harness disconnects on mine by lifting on the plastic retainer right there on the plug. If you run your fingers from the wires towards the harness you should feel a plastic lever that can be lifted that detaches the harness from the module.
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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Guys

There is a white plastic pin that acts as a safety retainer to keep the plug from accidently comming unplugged. That pin needs tp be removed first. Then it looks like all you need to do is lift up on the gray plastic handle to acuate a can type mechasim that causes the plug to lift off the module
As for the plug on the botton, I've been using my 98 service manual for all of this information! My 98 does NOT have a plug on the bottom. It looks like there are differences between the newer vetts and the older vetts. I am digging into the 2002 shop manual now. Sorry for any confusion. I will post as soon as I find the chapter on this problem in the other manual!

BC
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 08:26 PM
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Ok!! Lets start this again! The only references that I have are a 98 factory shop manual and a 2002 shop manual If your vehicle is a different year, your going to have to punt from there.
The 2002 EBTCM and BPMV is significantly different electronically tham my 98. They look about the same but the 02 unit has a few more electrical connectors. The bottom plug is the BPMV electrical connector. The electrical connector on the back of the BPMV is the brake pressor sensor.
The trouble shooting procedures are even different for this code. All it says to do for this code is to remove the Pump Motor Harness Pigtail on the bottom of the BPMV. Measure the resistance between each pump motor pin to ground. Resistance must be infinite/open. If it is NOT replace the both units. EBTCM and the BPMV.

All I can recommend at this point is to disconnect each plug and inspect and clean as necessary. Look for ground wire issues! I can NOT stress this enough! Almost every electrical problem that I have had on the 98 has been ground connection related. The square black connector that all of the ground wires terminate into has been known to cause problems. The wires are pushed into small "V" groves and rely on friction to make contact. When I was at Bowling Green KY discussing my strange electrical problem with the GM rep he recommended that I cut my ground plug termination boxes off and put all of the ground wires into a solder on terminal. I would not go that far but you may want to disconnect the ground terminal box disassemble it and make sure each wire is pushed into those groves properly.
Once you have cleaned and inspected the all of the plugs, put them back on and see what happens.
The newer C5's rely a lot on test that can be preformed on the TECH II that the GM service tech has. This unit can make the EBTCM go into self test and provides more info.
SORRY for any confusion.

That all I can tell you for now. PLEASE let me know what you guys find.
Good luck.

BC
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 09:16 PM
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Bill, with the overtime I'm working I haven't had a chance to try the new steps. I will let you know what happens. Thank you very much for the continued interest in our problem.
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 09:24 PM
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I here ya man! Me too!!! That is why I am posting late at night!!!

I hope it's grounds or dirty connectors and nothing else!

Please keep me posted on your progress and for sure ask questions!!

BC
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 11:15 PM
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Bill,

You are the man. Thanks so much for your help. At this point, given the cost of the parts and the amount of time I've spent personally troubleshooting it, I think I am going to take the car to the dealer and try to get this done under warranty.

My car is heavily modified so the dealers usually give me a hard time for anything that goes wrong on that side of the firewall. But I suspect they'll have a hard time proving my 383 or supercharger broke the BPMV. Still whenever possible I try to fix these things myself -- the car will eventually be out of warranty.
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 11:38 PM
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For them to PROVE that the engine Mods caused the EBTCM and the BPMV to fail would be VERY unlikley!

Please let us know what they "SAY" was found to be the problem!

BC
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 08:29 PM
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Bill, Finally got some free time to take a look at this. First, how does the white pin remove. Second, how does the bottom connector release. I certainly don't want to force anything.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by diynoob
I keep getting code C1214. I know it's a solenoid relay valve, but where is it located? I'd like to check its physical condition and replace if necessary. I am getting this code about 6-7 times a week.
I have seen the ABS 1214 fault a number of times on the 2001-02 and the EBTCM was the culprit every time The EBTCM is basicly a cover kit and can simply be replaced by removing the connectors and the six Torx head screws on the 2001-04.
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 08:51 PM
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Can you elaborate on that. "removing the connectors and the six torx head screws". Does the side nearest the center of the car remove from the left hand part with the brake lines attached? How do you remove the White thing that keeps the large cable connected and how does the connector on the bottom remove. Do you have a part number for the replacement part? Thanks for any help you can give.
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