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I am going to install Stingers in a few days and I have a question. I tried to search for help but can't seem to find what I need. Does anyone have any tips on getting the rear 36 in. off the ground without a lift? Any pics or instructions would be helpful. Any other info that might be useful for the install would also be appreciated. Thanks!
The only way I have seen it done is jack up the car put it on jack stands. Then place the jack on a stack of wood and jack up some more. Be careful as you can jack the nose of the car into the ground. You can put the front on some ramps to give you more room on the front. I DONT RECOMMEND THIS PROCEDURE
It is very unsafe.
Either spend the $50 and have a shop do it if you want to save the original exhaust. If you don't care about cutting it then jack up the rear of the car put it on stands and cut the rear exhaust with a sawzall or a hack saw. Took me about an hour with a hack saw would probably take about 30 minutes with a sawzall.
I am going to install Stingers in a few days and I have a question. I tried to search for help but can't seem to find what I need. Does anyone have any tips on getting the rear 36 in. off the ground without a lift? Any pics or instructions would be helpful. Any other info that might be useful for the install would also be appreciated. Thanks!
1. Buy a set of rhino ramps for the front wheels.
2. Goto Home Depot, buy a 12'-2"x10" and cut it into 8 1.5' blocks.
3. Drive the car onto ramps, make sure the front wheel hits the stop on ramp.
4. Chuck the back of the front wheel.
5. Jack up the rear of the car, I did mine in 12" increments. Every 12" i would add another block from the 2x10 under the car jacks.
6. Do this until the rear fascia is about 36" off the ground.
It is very high off the ground, can be intimidating to a backyard mechanic.
I did it twice with a buddy to put Z06 Ti's on both our cars. We put the front wheels on ramps and chocked them to make sure they wouldn't roll back off the ramps since the jack pushed the car up and back as the rear was jacked up. I placed a 4"x4"x12" block of wood on the jack pad and a 2"x10" under the jack's front wheels then jacked the rear until the car was high enough.
I agree that it's worth taking it to an exhaust shop and having them do it on a lift instead. We did it because we're used to doing jobs like this ourselves and wanted to see if we could do it at home. We were ultra careful and triple-checked stability every step of the way and only had the car that high to slip the mufflers in. Once they were in, we set the rear wheels back down on ramps and finished installing the exhaust.
Most shops charge about $40.00. By the time you go get the lumber ,cut it , get the car up, well whats your time worth ?? Is it safe ?? If it falls OUCH, yOU OR THE CAR COULD BE HURT. :blush:
The shops around here charge $120 and luckily a few forum members offered to help me do this. First of all, I measured the rear as being about 31-32 inches off the ground, not 36 as some have insisted. Secondly, you need to keep it that high only for a minute or so - just long enough to pull the right-side OEM pipe out and slip the new one in. After that, lower down to the highest jack stand height and then crawl under to connect everything.
If you do it yourself just cut the old exhaust so you don't have to jack the car up so high. Much safer that way. With a good hacksaw blade you'll have it done in a couple of minutes.
Thanks for the input everyone. I tested it out last night and I got the rear high enough without too much trouble. Since it only needs to be that high for a few minutes, I think I am going to give it a try when the stingers get here. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
Thanks for the input everyone. I tested it out last night and I got the rear high enough without too much trouble. Since it only needs to be that high for a few minutes, I think I am going to give it a try when the stingers get here. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
it really shouldnt be much more than an hour at a muffler shop...just did mine this weekend...glad i didnt spend 3-4 hours on it myself...who knows what i would have damaged...
Just installed new stingers today. Lifted the car with a floor jack under the diff and front wheels on rhino ramps. Unbolted the rear sway bar and pulled the pipes down and cut them off as I didn't feel confortable raising the rear any more.
I would also say that I'm not that impressed with the fit and/or quality of the system. It was a total PITA to align the tips, 2 tippers even, and still didn't get it perfect. Looks like the hangers are were welded cockeyed and I just got tired of messing with it and bolted em up as good as they are gonna get. Also had to grind down some of the pipe where it protruded through the flange.
So after all that let me just say the sound is bad azzz, love it!!! Sounds like I'm at TMS on race day when I get on it and nice rumble when I'm cruising. And the sound it makes when you start it is to die for!!
I went for a quick ride around the block and came back an hour later. I can see my gas mileage is going to get worse due to increased rompage.
I am going to install Stingers in a few days and I have a question. I tried to search for help but can't seem to find what I need. Does anyone have any tips on getting the rear 36 in. off the ground without a lift? Any pics or instructions would be helpful. Any other info that might be useful for the install would also be appreciated. Thanks!
I did mine with just a 3 1/2 ton floor jack raised as far as I could get it, and put on jack stands. My front 3-piece air dam was hitting the floor and folded under a little.
If I did it again I think I would roll the car onto a couple 2x4's to get the whole car 1 1/2" - 3" offthe ground and then use the floor jack.
Does anyone actually save their stock system, and go back and re-install it before they get rid of their Corvette? I can't imagine wanting to fool with that?? As such, I don't see why I wouldn't just cut my stock exhaust off and send it off to dumpsterland...???
(Sorry for digging up an old thread, but I am waiting for new GHL Bullets to arrive!)
From: You want HOW much for that Corvette part??? Atlanta GA
Originally Posted by Dave68
The shops around here charge $120 and luckily a few forum members offered to help me do this. First of all, I measured the rear as being about 31-32 inches off the ground, not 36 as some have insisted. Secondly, you need to keep it that high only for a minute or so - just long enough to pull the right-side OEM pipe out and slip the new one in. After that, lower down to the highest jack stand height and then crawl under to connect everything.
The shops in my area wanted $100 remove the old exhaust and install TI's. I did it at home with a jack and stands made for SUV's (jacks up to 21"). Removed the old exhasut and installed the new one without cutting. Not a bad job for home and only took 90 mins.
Your driving a CORVETTE. It cost me $100 for cat back, x-pipe & tunnel plate install. Thats a bargain considering what most items cost for these cars. I,ve seen photos on here of home installs, & while most say they went well, I can see the potential for costing alot more in damages or injury, should something go wrong.