Okay. Here's the deal.

A/C has been weak for a while (colder on the pass. than the drivers side). Yesterday I pulled fuses 19 & 27 on the pass. side footwell in the hope that it would reset the actuators. No better so I gave it a quick charge & seal. Worked wonders! ice cold air at last!

Drove for 1.5 hours - no problem.

Last night it poured it down with rain.

This morning I got in the car and found some water in the drivers side footwell. When I went to start the car I found major issues. The display was showing the following:

Reduced engine power
Check tire presure
Service engine soon
low fuel

In addition, the following warning lights were on:
check guages
check engine
active handling
abs

The electrics have gone awol. here's what i found:
no windows
no radio
no remote lock/unlock
no A/C
no guages except voltmeter

despite all of this, i was able to drive the car home with the top down dodging copious rainfall (no A/C + 100% humidity + 96 degree heat = zero visibility with top up).

Anyway, I arrived home safely and now when I put the key in the ignition and attempt to crank the motor - nothing.

I have had this problem (no start) several times in the past few months. usually it starts again if I wait a while. Is my battery to blame for all of this?

I pulled the diagnostics and for each segment it said no comm...

Obviously I need some help. Where do i go from here?

 

Had somthing like that happen to me but it was the battery. It had leaked through the positive terminal and had eatten away at the main harness of wires that connect to the computer under the battery.

 

yeah id check that battery for leaks. My vert top leaks a little on the drivers side too (99 as well). Anyway, I don't think there is anything on that side of the car that would cause all the problems you listed. The only thing that may cause is a bad window switch. Your PCM has some major issues. Good Luck, keep us up to date.

 

thanks for replys so far. the story unfolds...

Well, She started again. Now I'm getting "service traction control, "service active handling" and service tire mon. sys."

Went back into diagnostics and found the following codes:

1016 Loss Of PCM Communications
B2860 Telescoping Column Position Sensor Failure
P1626 Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Lost
P1631 Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct
U1000 Loss of Communications
U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1040 Loss of Communications with TCS
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1088 Loss of Communications with SDM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1153 Loss of Communications with HVAC
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
U1300 Serial Data Line Short to Ground
U1301 Serial Data Line Short to Voltage

As i recall the all had the "h" (for history) suffix.

This wasn't supposed to be the way I spent sunday afternoon.

Any ideas folks?

 

I assume you're on your 2nd battery by now? 5 years for a battery is a long time these days. If not, I'd run the battery down to local auto parts store and have them check it. If it's a newer battery I'd check the connections for corrosion. I'd also check a few of the fuses for the effected components...

Sorry I'm not a battery/electrical guru....in fact I pride myself on not knowing much about everything Good luck to you....

 

Did you check the battery yet? It's a good place to start.

 

Looks like battery was replaced in '02. Still, I'm yanking it and taking it to the auto supply store for testing. Either way, may as well replace it while it's out. Back in a few...

 

Well, bettery tested as strong as an ox. Figured I'd save my money as I started to feel like this might require a trip to the dealer.

there was some build up on the positive battery terminal screw so i cleand it off with a wire brush before reassembling it.

Now, it appears that there are no active codes but my radio has "loc"ked me out and my remote unit doesn't work.

So - 1. How do I get the radio code (I'm not the original owner) and 2. how do I troubleshoot the remote (the second remote doesn't work either)?

Thanks.

 

Here is the "cut & paste" instructions to unlock the radio. The radio locked when you disconnected the battery.

________________________________________ ______________


The following procedure will give you a new code that you can use instead of your personal code. Using this new code, you can “unlock” your radio and then “re-lock” it with a new code if you wish. Prerequisites: The radio must be in LOC mode NOT in INOP mode. Let me explain. If you have activated the Theft-Deterrent feature of your radio and loose power, the radio goes into LOC (theftlock) mode. With the ignition on, you must use the MN and HR buttons to enter you personal code in order to unlock it (The instructions are on page 3-27 in your Y2K Owner’s manual). If you fail to enter the correct code eight (8) times, the radio goes into INOP mode. You have to wait an hour with the ignition on before the radio returns to LOC mode (go for a long drive somewhere). Procedure: 01. Turn the ignition ON (The radio displays LOC) 02. Hold down the Radio Presets 2 and 3 buttons for six seconds 03. The radio display changes from LOC to a three-digit number. Write this number down. Don’t take forever, fifteen seconds max before the next step. 04. Press the AM/FM button 05. The radio display changes to another three-digit number. Write this number to the right of the first one. 06. You now have a six-digit number, the first three digits are from STEP 03 and the last three digits are form STEP 05 07. Call 1 800 537 5140 08. Press 1 then # (pound). You’ll hear “Invalid Code, try again” 09. Press 139010 then # (pound). You will be asked to enter your four or six digit code followed by * (start) 10. Enter the number from STEP 6 then * (star) 11. Listen to the four-digit number and write it down. It will be repeated twice 12. Turn the ignition ON (The radio displays LOC) 13. Use the MN and HR buttons to enter the code from STEP 11 14. Press the AM/FM button. The radio display changes to SEC Your radio is now “un-locked” and usable. The Theft-Deterrent feature is STILL active! If you want to disable it, use the instruction on page 3-27 in your Y2K Owner’s manual. Use the code from STEP 11 instead of your personal code. Note: This tip originated from LOTZAHP, Austin TX (credit must be given where credit is due). I verified it on an Y2K C5 with a locked radio - mine.

________________________________________ _______

For the non-functioning remotes - re-training them should bring them back to life. I can't remember the sequence, but it should be in the manual (it's something like stand close to the car, hold both lock & unlock buttons on remote - horn will honk after 7 seconds when code is "re-learned")

 

Thanks for that, RCK1999. At least I should be able to get my tunes back.

Still got major problems with the car. Getting traction control, tire monitoring system and reduced engine power errors on the display.

The steering wheel has extended all the way out and I'm just not confident in the car's ability to get me from A to B.

Thinking about removing and spraying down the PCM connections with electrical contact cleaner. Before I do that, is there any potential problems I might encounter?

BTW, does anyone know if the components for the codes I'm getting are all housed together (in the pasenger footwell perhaps). This is my daily driver. I've had to resort to driving the gas guzzling '89 BMW 750. Entirely unacceptable!

 

Have you looked under the passenger footboard to see if the
computers under there are wet?

That could be most of your problems right there.

Sounds like your drains may be clogged!

Search the forums for clogged drains...

 

You have a wet computer in the passengers side foot well. Your Ac drain or the cowl drains or both are plugged. Clean them out, dry out the computer, carpets and wiring and pray no permanent damage has been done.

 

I'd lay money on that. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

Thanks to all who have helped thus far.

I checked the passenger footwell and the associated electrical components and there is no sign of moisture whatsoever. Dry as a bone.

Yesterday, when I was attempting to start the car again, I received a "Low Voltage" error on the display and the car wouldn't turn over. I could hear a relay "buzzing" in the passenger footwell but the car wouldn't turn over.

This morning the car is completely dead. Nothing. Is it possible that the battery was bad even though it tested good at Autozone?

I'm going to take it back in tonight to have it re-tested. I'll keep you all informed as to what I find.

Thanks again for your help.

Andy.

 

I replaced the battery last night. Unfortunately, it did not resolve the problem. In fact the battery tested about 1.4 V without load so i imagine that it had been drained by some kind of open circuit overnight...

Now when I go into diagnostic mode all I get is "No Comm." for each of the diagnostic groups.

The display reads "reduced power mode," service vehicle soon" and "low fuel." I believe that there is 1/2 tank in it but the gauges (except the voltmeter) aren't working. Tonight I will put 5 gallons in it.

The car turns over but if it starts it's only for a second or so then it dies out.

There is no moisture whatsoever in the passenger footwell. I removed the cover and examined the electronics and they are dry.

I'm back to the A/C, radio and windows not working. Pretty much back to square 1 with the exeption that the car now will not run for more than a few seconds.

I really need your help here, folks. A structured troubleshooting approach would be great. If you can offer any help at all it sure would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Andy.

 

Corroded battery terminals/bad connection?

 

Thanks for the input glassfan.

I cleaned the battery terminals and made sure they were reattached nice and tight. I also visually inspected the wires beneath the battery to check for damage from spilled acid and they look great. The connection to the engine bay fuse box is also good.

I wonder why the diagnostics id telling me "No Comm."?

What's next? Where do I go from here?

 

Sounds similar to what I just went through. AC drain was plugged (yours could be different poblem) but water gets in the passenger foot well and the BCM goes crazy. I had every symptom you discribed. Car wouldn't run because the security system was shutting it down. Pull the carpet back pull the BCM out, dry everything out real well, especially the connectors. You should be OK. Check for leaks and make sure all your drains are unclogged.

 

Check this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=877276
You can do a search for AC drain leaks and find a ton of info.
Bottom line, open up passenger footwell, allow it to dry out and hope nothing is fried. Some people have used hair dryers to help the drying process but be careful with the heat.
Good luck.

 

I would lean towards a faulty BCM or possibly a poor ground.Make sure that the ground points are clean and tight at the left and right front frame rail and left rear frame rail located rearward of the tire.There are also 2 ground points behind the left and right rocker kick panels toward the front door jams.