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On the bottom is correct. It will contact the rotor moving in a forward direction when the pads wear down. The angle it contacts the rotor will cause it to squeek much like chalk squeeks against an chaulk board when you hold the chaulk at about a 45 degree angle and move it forward. If it is on top, it will just be drug along the rotor behind the pad as the rotor is turning forward and make no noise.
The problem I have is that when the pad tapers, it tapers on the top. The reason I asked this question is that my stock pads have significantly less material on the top of each pad than the bottom. So, it renders the wear indicators almost useless as there is more pad where the indicators are than on the other side. Funny
The pad shouldn't taper much if any as it wears. The only reason I can think of to cause your description is the caliper isn't moving freely on the bottom mounting bolt and it is moving freely on the top bolt. This condition can prevent full pressure from being applied to the end of the caliper that is stuck to the bolts and let a greater amount of pressure to be applied to the end that will move freely. These caliper bolts have rubber seals to help keep the dirt out and let the calipers move freely. If I were you, I'd take them apart, clean and lubricate them and make sure the top and bottom of the calipers move freely.
On the bottom is correct. It will contact the rotor moving in a forward direction when the pads wear down. The angle it contacts the rotor will cause it to squeek much like chalk squeeks against an chaulk board when you hold the chaulk at about a 45 degree angle and move it forward. If it is on top, it will just be drug along the rotor behind the pad as the rotor is turning forward and make no noise.
On top and on the inside of the front brakes and on the bottom and on the inside of the rear brakes so that they are in the trailing postion of the rotors.
From the Corvette shop manual:
B. The inboard brake pad with the wear sensor installed nearest the brake caliper piston.
C. The wear sensor must be in the trailing position during forward wheel rotation.
The pad shouldn't taper much if any as it wears. The only reason I can think of to cause your description is the caliper isn't moving freely on the bottom mounting bolt and it is moving freely on the top bolt. This condition can prevent full pressure from being applied to the end of the caliper that is stuck to the bolts and let a greater amount of pressure to be applied to the end that will move freely. These caliper bolts have rubber seals to help keep the dirt out and let the calipers move freely. If I were you, I'd take them apart, clean and lubricate them and make sure the top and bottom of the calipers move freely.
Pads taper a ton on stock calipers if you run the car on the track. I replace my front calipers annually to try to combat this. And the caliper pins are always well greased and functioning well. Pad taper is inevitable if you run hard on roadcourses.
On top and on the inside of the front brakes and on the bottom and on the inside of the rear brakes so that they are in the trailing postion of the rotors.
From the Corvette shop manual:
B. The inboard brake pad with the wear sensor installed nearest the brake caliper piston.
C. The wear sensor must be in the trailing position during forward wheel rotation.
So mine, which were on the inboard bottom on the front of the car, were put in incorrectly by the factory? Pretty amazing. I have tracked the car a couple of times which is why I get the taper, I'm not surprised by that, just that the wear indicators were on the the thicker part of the pad which is the top (on the front).
So mine, which were on the inboard bottom on the front of the car, were put in incorrectly by the factory? Pretty amazing. I have tracked the car a couple of times which is why I get the taper, I'm not surprised by that, just that the wear indicators were on the the thicker part of the pad which is the top (on the front).
I am just quoting the manual. Do whatever you think is best.
Frankly, I think they should go the other way, then the wear indicators would actually work. Thanks for the help
We are going to have to disagree on this one. The reason the indicator is on the trailing edge is so that it averages the thickness of the pad. And they do work as I can tell you from driving home from Gingerman with some pretty thin pads. Made a noise every time I used the brake.
We are going to have to disagree on this one. The reason the indicator is on the trailing edge is so that it averages the thickness of the pad. And they do work as I can tell you from driving home from Gingerman with some pretty thin pads. Made a noise every time I used the brake.
I wasn't disagreeing. The front pads on my car stock from the factory were on the inboard side with the wear indicators on the bottom. When the car is moving forward, that would make them on the leading edge. When I pulled the pads, there was way more wear on the top or what I think you are describing as the trailing edge, thus making them useless as I would have been down to the backing plate long before the indicators started howling. I'm just surprised that the factory had them backwards.
I go through a set of pads and rotors at least a set a year when I am doing heavy Auto-X and open track.
Too MUCH grease on the caliper pins will cause them to lock-up. The Grease can cause the pins to not allow air to escape or enter. Put just enough on them to lube them good. Also use the proper grease. There is a special Graphite, caliper grease for this application.