Amongst other things, I bought a set of stainless steel braided brake hoses to replace the sponge rubber OEMs. I also bought one of Motive's power brake bleeders. I wanted to swap out the hoses and bleed the brakes one at a time. However, I found that the brake bleeder is missing an o-ring preventing it from holding any pressure. I called Motive and they are kind enough to send me an o-ring.

Here's my question. Can I perform all the "upgrades" I want to do now and bleed the brakes in a 3 or 4 days? With all the rain forecasted over the next couple of days, I figured now is the time to do it.

TIA.

 

I'm not sure I totally understand the question but I would not leave a system short on brake fluid anywhere for any period of time. Plan it so you can get the new brake fluid in place ASAP. Too much aluminum and chances of corrosion.

Also the bleed sequence changed after 2000.

For 2000 and prior it is RR LR RF LF

For 2001 and later it is RR LF LR RF

 

I have to admit to not totally understanding either, but when I did my calipers I installed all of them first, did some other work, and then the last thing I did was bleed the system with my Motive setup. Also used ATE Super Blue. One thing you can do initially is just gravity bleed each one (this is what I did) and then keep an eye open for leaks. That way the system will remain full of fluids.

 

I'm trying to say that my power bleeder is broke, but I'd like to swap out the components now. Then in a couple of days when the bleeder is fixed, I will bleed the system.

Thanks for your responses.

 

When you start taking the brake system apart you need to bleed it immediately.

 

anytime to let air into the brake system you have to bleed it. If you want to you can find an assistant and just gravity bleed the system. It'll take longer, but it works

 

I just finished installing new rotors, pads, and SS brake lines. I took it all apart, and reinstalled everything with the old brake lines in place. One by one, I replaced each of the rubber lines. I disconnected the brake line from the frame first, and placed a short piece of surgigal tube with a knot in it over the metal line to keep it from leaking. I then disconnected the brake line from the caliper, installed the new line to the caliper, then reconnected it to the metal line. I did all of them within an hour or so, then bled the system right after. Not sure if leaving the system for an extended period is a good idea.

Bleeding by hand is simple as long as you have someone to assist. I would wait for the part to come in to do the work, or do the work and bleed the old fashioned way. The whole effort should not take you more than two hours.

A few tips for you:
(1)The longer brake lines are the rears.
(2)The front brake lines should install with the line wrapping towards the front, over the lower A-arm. If you install them wrapping towards the rear, you will end up having the tire scrape the brake line when you turn.
(3)Before you lower the car, put the front tires on and turn the wheel all the way in each direction making sure the line is not contacting anything.
(4)Make sure you are using new copper crush washers for the caliper mounting bolts on the brake lines.
(5)To remove the clamps that secure the brake line to the frame, I took a 4 ft phone cord, cut off the ends, threaded it through the clip and pulled as I worked the sides of the clamp with a screwdriver. This made it much easier as my claps were stuck pretty good.