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Brake caliper bolts

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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:08 PM
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Default Brake caliper bolts

Well, after a couple of beers and a lot of foul language, I finally got the four caliper bolts off.

Can someone explain to me how I'm going to fit a 1/2" drive torque wrench in this area to re-torque them to 125ft-lbs?



I've been reading several old posts and unless someone can convince me otherwise I'm going to re-use the caliper bolts after I've applied a little red loctite.

I can't wait to do the fronts.
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:11 PM
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Fine to reuse and locktie jack the car up and then torque.
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:15 PM
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Are you talking about the caliper bolts or the caliper bracket bolts. The 2 caliper bolts only need about 35# and you can reuse the bolts with red loctite. Just clean off the threads before you add new glue. GM does it for liability issues and since these bolts don't get stretched like other bolts do with torque plus degree, you'll be fine. Most guys that race and change pads at the track re-use the bolts.

EDIT: You just need to raise the car a little higher to gain leverage and flip the socket one quarter turn( the 6 sided socket will give you another 30 degrees to turn it by rotating 1/4 turn on the wrench) to incrementally torque it down. But you're right, it's tight down there.

Last edited by drcoffee; Sep 10, 2004 at 10:21 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by drcoffee
Are you talking about the caliper bolts or the caliper bracket bolts. The 2 caliper bolts only need about 35# and you can reuse the bolts with red loctite. Just clean off the threads before you add new glue. GM does it for liability issues and since these bolts don't get stretched like other bolts do with torque plus degree, you'll be fine. Most guys that race and change pads at the track re-use the bolts.
Caliper bracket bolts.
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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The only way I was able to torque those bolts were to put the car up on 4 jack stands and lay under the car and torque them that way.

I actually have to do it all over again cause the blanks I bought were worped. Im pissed, but warrenty is a beautiful thing.

Good Luck


Tony
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsUp
Well, after a couple of beers and a lot of foul language, I finally got the four caliper bolts off.

Can someone explain to me how I'm going to fit a 1/2" drive torque wrench in this area to re-torque them to 125ft-lbs?



I've been reading several old posts and unless someone can convince me otherwise I'm going to re-use the caliper bolts after I've applied a little red loctite.

I can't wait to do the fronts.

The wrench should fit up there on an angle if you have the car off the ground in the air. I can do it on fairly low jack stands.

I would not use red loctite as that is a heat and tool release. I know the original bolts look like red but I don't think it is a a loctite product. Blue loctite is a mechanical release thread lock.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
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Old Sep 10, 2004 | 11:04 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys.

Richin Chicago, I see your name all over the threads regarding brake/caliper work. I admit, I was leary about using red loctite. I had to use a little heat to get one of the bolts off. I'm taking a break for the night since the palm of my hand hurts (no jokes guys).

Like you said Racinman9, I believe I've got to get the car up higher.

I'm off to Lowes first thing in the morning to get some blue loctite.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsUp
I'm off to Lowes first thing in the morning to get some blue loctite.
DON'T DO IT ..Blue loctite is NOT heat resistant like the red. That is the reason GM says to replace the bolts. They don't trust John Q. Citizen to use the correct product as witnessed in this post. Legal issues.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Dan
DON'T DO IT ..Blue loctite is NOT heat resistant like the red. That is the reason GM says to replace the bolts. They don't trust John Q. Citizen to use the correct product as witnessed in this post. Legal issues.
For the caliper bolts "blue" will do. The brackets carry all the weight. I'd go with a drop of "red." IMHO

New bolts...? Na. just clean them up and torque them down with red.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Dan
DON'T DO IT ..Blue loctite is NOT heat resistant like the red. That is the reason GM says to replace the bolts. They don't trust John Q. Citizen to use the correct product as witnessed in this post. Legal issues.
Blue is good to 300 degrees F??

Do you really want to try to heat these bolts for release? I can't imagine you could get the bracket bolt to release with 125 ft lbs of torque and red loctite on it without a ton of heat applied?

I could be wrong but the first thing the guy at Napa told me was to never use red unless it was someplace I didn't mind heating with a propane torch?
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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I've used red and blue with success.

Red is supposed to be heat release but it's not. I've used it dozens of time on suspension parts and I've broken em loose by hand every time.

Dope
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dope
I've used red and blue with success.

Red is supposed to be heat release but it's not. I've used it dozens of time on suspension parts and I've broken em loose by hand every time.

Dope
I think the "Red Loctite only releases with a torch" is a bit of an old wives tale. Maybe for small fasteners, that are low torque to begin with, under "ideal" conditions (i.e. lots of Loctite, threads pristine-clean, etc.)

I too am more comfortable with a small drop of Red than lots of Blue when it comes to these brake fasteners.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 02:39 PM
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For the fronts, if you turn your wheel to the max, you can easily get the torque wrench on there.
The rears are harder. I put my car up on four jack stands and can get just enough of an angle on the torque wrench (or the normal long wrench I use to put on and take off the bolts) to make it work. I don't have to get under my car to do it. The wrench ends up at an angle going forward and under the frame rail. A little easier the higher you put the rear on the jack stands. If find that pulling up on the wrench is easy, but pushing down on it is hard, especially as I am not very heavy. I end up essentially doing a one arm bar dip on it.

I use the medium red locktight and reuse my caliper bracket bolts all season, and I go through a lot of rotors. I did replace mine at the beginning of the season though.

I do not need to use heat to take them off, but it is hard to get them off.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Richin Chicago
The wrench should fit up there on an angle if you have the car off the ground in the air. I can do it on fairly low jack stands.

I would not use red loctite as that is a heat and tool release. I know the original bolts look like red but I don't think it is a a loctite product. Blue loctite is a mechanical release thread lock.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=48&plid=153
There are many different types of Loctite. See this site:

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...d=114&layout=3
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