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I checked earlier to make sure everything was secure under the hood and they were fine. The wires looked good too, but not sure on the plugs since I have not checked them. I do have an aftermarket twin air intake, slp MAFS, VR stack, and PRT exhaust.
oh one more thing...this secondary ignition problem won't mess with my remotes will they? I don't see how they would. It could just be a coincidence. I'll go reprogram them and see what happends in the morning.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Robert,
He said that he did not have any codes. Wouldnt these problems set a code? Even an air intake problem would set a code if that was a problem. Sounds like a secondary ignition issue to me.
Yeah, your probably right. One or more coil(s)? They're pretty reliable but sometimes parts fail. The "popping" he describes does sound like it's timing related.
I normally stick to the C3 section (since i own a 79, and its not stock either ), but lately ive decided to explore other sides of this forum and possibly even help a few ppl out. Now from my experience If its backfiring then youve got a MAJOR problem if its doing so on an EFI engine with computer controls, you should have no backfiring whatsoever with any efi engine, unless your computer is tottally fried. Usually backfiring means that either your timing is off, your spark plug wires are mixed up/your spark plugs are fouled or damaged (highly unlikely on an EFI engine), or you wiped a cam lobe or bent a pushrod (or something else valve train related), or your running too lean (also highly doubtfull since computer automaticaly adjusts fuel mixture). I highly doubt your plug wires are mixed up, and something weird would have to have happen for the timing to get thrown off. But a wiped cam lobe, or possible valve train problems could be the culprit. Good luck
Last edited by killervette666; Sep 26, 2004 at 12:36 AM.
Now the popping I'm hearing doesn't sound like your normal drop to the ground type backfire. It kinda sounds like when the exhaust pops when it decelerates, but I'm not decelerating and it just started one day. The day before it was ok. And, the car does idle rough but when you give it gas it'll be fine then go back to the rough idle. If anyone lives near the Virginia Beach area that could take a look at it I would greatly appreciate it.
One or more cylinders aren't firing and your dumping raw gas into the exhaust once the fuel hits the catalytic converters it ignites and goes BOOM this is the popping sound your hearing, I'm really surprised your not getting a flashing check engine light or a P0300 code.
Now you throw a wrinkle into my troubleshooting by saying the your key FOB isn't working that leads me to believe that either your battery (in the car) is weak or maybe your having problems with the BCM, have you noticed any water in the passenger side footwell recently?
Well, I reprogrammed my FOB controllers and they work fine. I haven't had any trouble with water getting into the footwell. Like I said the battery is brand new and the alternator and all is working fine. I think we narrowed it down to the plugs and wires. I appreciate all your guys help in this situation. I''l post once all is well again. Thank You.
UPDATE...I finally got to pull off my wires, and BINGO!!!! Wire number 7 was corroded. I'm in the process of changing them out and the plugs too since I'm there. To clean the inside of the wires and stuff I can use rubbing alcohol right?
I cleaned my wires with brake parts cleaner! It seems to work fine and does NOT hurt the boots or wire coverings. I wipe them down with silicone spray which helps keep the moisture and dirt off of the wires.
The wires in my 98 lasted 60,000 with out a problem.
Well, I already got my new wires, and plugs. The plugs came with that silicone gel or whatever and I'll put it on both ends of the wires. Hopefully no more problems. Thanks for all your help, everyone.