Ok, when I turn off my head lights the left light shuts and then opens again half way. Turn it on and it open and turns on fine. Any ideas??
Thanks

 

i dunno...mine don't F'ing opn..they come on...but don't pop up..OR one pops up...so if I open the hood and turn the **** a couple turns and try again they work. and when I try to troubleshoot this during the daytime...they work fine...but at 3frickin30 AM when I am going to work...oh hell F'ing no!!!! : :

 

There is a TSB that explains what your problem is and how to fix it. I will see if I can find it and post it for you. There is a plastic limit stop in the head light assembly that is going bad.

BC

 

If it is the Driver's side headlight, then the TSB will address it:

Number: 00-08-42-002
Subject: Left Headlamp Door Does Not Stay Closed (Shim Headlamp Door Motor/Actuator and Replace Insulators)
Model Year: 2000 Chevrolet Corvette

Condition

Some customers may comment that the left front headlamp door does not remain closed after the headlamps are turned off. Others may comment that the left headlamp door closes when the headlamps are turned off, but then reopens. In either case, the right headlamp door operates properly.

Correction

Important

The following information applies to the left front headlamp door motor/actuator only. It does not apply to and should not be performed on the right front headlamp door motor/actuator.


Install one washer (2) between the left headlamp door motor/actuator (1) and the mounting bracket (3) at each of the three attaching bolt locations. Also replace the insulator (4) on each of the two mounting bracket travel stop tabs (5) as shown. For information on headlamp motor/actuator removal, see the Headlamp Motor/Actuator Replacement procedure in the Lighting sub-section of Body & Accessories in the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information

Part Number
Description
Qty Per Vehicle

11505463
Washer
3

16524060
Insulator
2

 

Thanks for the info. I will try it out this week.

 

My 2000 had the same problem, but I found the solution. It seems the headlamp assembly motor is designed to quit running when it detects a firm obstacle, which are two metal stops, one for the open position and one for closed position. Each of these stops is covered by a white plastic cover. The closed positon stop is visible if you look at the headlight operating motor from the front of the car with the hood open, looking between the bottom of the hood and the top of the front bumper. It has a small, white plastic tip on it which is supposed to be squarely hit the actuating arm as it swings to the closed position. However, because things didn't quite get aligned correctly during assembly, the actuating arm just barely hits the very end of the plastic cover, which eventually fails and allows the actuating arm to continue in its rotation until it reaches the other stop (the open position).

If you remove the black plastic shroud around the headlight and then remove the fiberglass top of the headlight assembly, you can hand turn the adjuster on the motor and more clearly see the mechanism in action. In my case, the whole process was being made worse because the front most headlight motor mounting bolt was too long, and was deflecting the actuating arm as it passed by. The solution was to swap the top headlight motor mounting bolt (which is shorter) with the long front bolt so it didn't interfere with the arm as it rotated past. I then traded the damaged white plastic cover with one of the other covers which were undamaged. While the actuating arm still just barely hits the end of the metal stop, it is sufficient, and with the new plastic tip, it is holding nicely. This did the trick and I haven't had any problems with it since. I thought I was the only guy who was unlucky enough to have had the assembler at the factory mix up the bolts, but it sounds like he (she?) might have affected quite a few of us.

Alternatively, you can simply replace the plastic peice and hope for the best. This is probably simpler, but will require you to have some extra plastic covers on hand for whenever this problem "pops up"

Hope this helps.

 

Nice tips, thanks.

 

I have the same car and had the same problem. One of the other guys here sent me the TSB about the washers and bolts. When I opened it up and looked at the white plastic caps I noticed a couple of them were cracked. I replaced them and everything is fine. The plastic caps, if not totally cracked, can be flipped over or swapped for different positions. Everything is fine. now. The dealer had a difficult time finding the part number or understanding what I wanted but I finally got them. $6 each! Good luck