Help with ABS and Traction Control
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas
Help with ABS and Traction Control
I have a 98 auto that has never given me the slightest problem, even with 150k miles. However, it has over the last couple of years occasionally lit up the ABS warning and the traction control warning. Usually I just turn the car off, restart and the lights go off. However, a couple of months ago, the lights came on when I punched the engine and now they won't go off. The car operates fine. I even feel the pulsing in the brakes when I step on the hard, but the ABS light is on. However, the traction control is not working and hitting the switch makes no difference. Is there a common relay for both systems that may be out? Has anybody else had this problem???
Thanks
Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 220
Likes: 1
From: Pleasant Hill CA
It could be that one of the sensors got disconnected or is shorting at one of the hubs. I would take a look at each and see if the connector has been jarred loose or is rubbing on the wheel. Once you get underneath for a closer look, this will make sense.
A good thing to do is to actually disconnect each one and clean the connectors out with compressed air and use an electrical cleaner as well. This solved this issue for me.
There are many converations about this same topic. Do a search on Service ABS and/or traction control as well.
You can also pull the codes from the DIC to narrow it down further.
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
A good thing to do is to actually disconnect each one and clean the connectors out with compressed air and use an electrical cleaner as well. This solved this issue for me.
There are many converations about this same topic. Do a search on Service ABS and/or traction control as well.
You can also pull the codes from the DIC to narrow it down further.
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Very good advice!! 
You can also make sure all of your ground connectors are clean and properly connected.
My 98 was plagued with electrical issues and I discovered that my chassis ground connectors were correded! After I cleaned them, all is well!
I have more info if you cant figure it out and want to clean/check your grounds.
Bill C
You can also make sure all of your ground connectors are clean and properly connected.My 98 was plagued with electrical issues and I discovered that my chassis ground connectors were correded! After I cleaned them, all is well!
I have more info if you cant figure it out and want to clean/check your grounds.
Bill C
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Rogersville TN
Several years ago, in the middle of a tight 180 curve, the active handling light came on and wouldn't reset. I found a female socket in a cannon plug under the car that wasn't locked in place. I put the car up on four jack stands and had all the plugs for the active handling system unplugged and used a ohm meter to find the open. You could also find a socket or pin that has been pushed out of the plug visually. My fault was in the wire bundle that started at the left front of the engine at the hydraulic module and continued under the car to a cannon plug. Lots of wires in them thar bundles.
Good Luck, Curt
Capt. Curtis H. Briggs
Rogersville. TN
Good Luck, Curt
Capt. Curtis H. Briggs
Rogersville. TN
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,820
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Did you run the codes on the DIC? If there is a problem with the system there should be some sort of code that will take you to a debug procedure in the Service Manual.
Bill
Bill
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas
Great advice. Thanks. I have been thinking that it could be a loose connection. I just didn't know if there was a common relay problem that people might be seeing (like the dang oil sensor!!!).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas
Thanks for the ABS advice from the board. I checked the codes (had the car 6 years and didn't know how to do that) and got a 1233c. When I clear it, it pops right back up. I pulled the wheel, unplugged and replugged the connector with no change. Does this mean that I have to replace that entire bearing assembly???
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Arlington Texas
Dumb question
OK, I am obviously NOT car smart, but given that the code is for a speed sensor I was wondering. The wheel that is not performing is a wheel where the tire was replaced because of failure and it is out of sequence with the rest of them, i.e. the left front has almost new tread, the right front (problem) is getting pretty bald and needs to be replaced. Could this difference upset the computer??? Again, I apologize for the dumb question!! 
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,362
Likes: 3
From: Delray Beach FL
Not sure if that would cause a problem or not. I had the same thing happen on my 01 Z. Dealer checked it out and found that the sensor was bad and the wiring connector was corroded. New sensor and connector and no more problems. Good luck!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The DTC 1233 occures when: The RF wheel Speed Circuit is "OPEN" or "SHORTED"
There are test that you can do to prove the sensor good or bad. Before you replace the sensor I would look at the wiring, connectors, pins (male and female) and take resistance and voltage readings.
Each wheel sensor should read: 850 - 1350 Ohms
If you read the proper resistance and the sensor is in good shape, you will need to follow the wiring harness back to the Electronic Brake Traction Unit (EBTCU) It could be in the front OR read depending on when your build date was. Early 98 was in the back, late 98's are in the front on the drivers sidr of the eng compt infront of the engine.
Bil C
There are test that you can do to prove the sensor good or bad. Before you replace the sensor I would look at the wiring, connectors, pins (male and female) and take resistance and voltage readings.
Each wheel sensor should read: 850 - 1350 Ohms
If you read the proper resistance and the sensor is in good shape, you will need to follow the wiring harness back to the Electronic Brake Traction Unit (EBTCU) It could be in the front OR read depending on when your build date was. Early 98 was in the back, late 98's are in the front on the drivers sidr of the eng compt infront of the engine.
Bil C
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The DTC 1233 occures when: The RF wheel Speed Circuit is "OPEN" or "SHORTED"
There are test that you can do to prove the sensor good or bad. Before you replace the sensor I would look at the wiring, connectors, pins (male and female) and take resistance and voltage readings.
Each wheel sensor should read: 850 - 1350 Ohms
If you read the proper resistance and the sensor is in good shape, you will need to follow the wiring harness back to the Electronic Brake Traction Unit (EBTCU) It could be in the front OR read depending on when your build date was. Early 98 was in the back, late 98's are in the front on the drivers sidr of the eng compt infront of the engine.
Bil C
There are test that you can do to prove the sensor good or bad. Before you replace the sensor I would look at the wiring, connectors, pins (male and female) and take resistance and voltage readings.
Each wheel sensor should read: 850 - 1350 Ohms
If you read the proper resistance and the sensor is in good shape, you will need to follow the wiring harness back to the Electronic Brake Traction Unit (EBTCU) It could be in the front OR read depending on when your build date was. Early 98 was in the back, late 98's are in the front on the drivers sidr of the eng compt infront of the engine.
Bil C
Also a high failure point is the jumper cable that goes to the sensor. Switch the right and left side jumper cables and see if you get code C1232HC (Right front wheel failure) if you do replace with GM part# 10332527 jumper cable.