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How do you install the LS6 oil pump? I've been searching, but all I've seen is the F-body installation on ls1howto.com, but it requires soo much work I might as well install a cam and double roller chain if I have to do soo much work. The F-body is a pain because they can't remove the oil pan without lifting the engine or removing the k-member. I'm hoping I can just remove oil pan and get access to the oil pump. Thanks!
How do you install the LS6 oil pump? I've been searching, but all I've seen is the F-body installation on ls1howto.com, but it requires soo much work I might as well install a cam and double roller chain if I have to do soo much work. The F-body is a pain because they can't remove the oil pan without lifting the engine or removing the k-member. I'm hoping I can just remove oil pan and get access to the oil pump. Thanks!
Eugene
You'll have to do about the same amount of work as installing a cam. In fact, you should use jmX's cam install instructions. If you're going that far you might as well put a cam in and upgrade the timing set. Removing the steering rack is not a fun task.
I put heads/cam/oil pump ,no way around it ,you gotta remove the st. rack,I used jmx's site& everything came out perfect,very important is the oil pump O-ring,get it in perfect or you oil pressure will be very low& youll have to take it apart again .
I used LS1 howto.com. It was good. But I cant stress this enough, USE LOCKTIGHT AND TORQUE YOUR BALANCER DOWN RIGHT (over 250ft lbs.)!!! Everything else is simple. If your doing the oil pump, you should do the cam. Even a really small one, it will improve you mpg, power, sound(get rid of the popping on decelaration), and you dont even need to have it tuned.
The steering rack isnt that bad, its not hard just a little more time consuming. I've pulled mine a few times know. I did I mention USE LOCKTIGHT AND TORQUE YOUR BALANCER DOWN RIGHT?
Why are you using an LS6 oil pump? Is it different from an LS1 oil pump?
The oil pump is on the front of the crank shaft. You don't have to remove the oil pan at all, but you basically have to take the entire front of the motor apart.
Replacing the pump is easy and the pan need not be dropped as stated. Just be very sure on the O ring :
1. that you do not drop it into the pan.
2. that the new one is in proper position.
The double chain may be overkill (standing by for flack) and you will have to replace crank gear which is troubling.
The new LS2 GM chain is very stout by comparison and will go on stock crank gear while pump is out.
Suit yourself.
LS1 and LS2 chain below:
Stephen, the early LS1 pumps are known to fail. I'm nearing 80K miles on my '98, so this is something I'm getting very concerned about. The LS6 pump is supposed to be more reliable, and have more volume and pressure, at least when it's ported like those sold by most vendors. Also, I was looking at dropping the pan as an alternative to taking the front all apart. I'm one of those people that figure that if I have it apart, I might as well upgrade. Unless someone has a different way of doing this, I guess I'll be installing a new cam and supporting hardware (chain, springs, rockers, retainers) while I'm at it.
see5, I've heard good things about the LS2 chain, but I didn't know it could use the same sprocket. That makes it a very attractive possibility. Thanks!
I was looking at dropping the pan as an alternative to taking the front all apart. I'm one of those people that figure that if I have it apart, I might as well upgrade. Unless someone has a different way of doing this, I guess I'll be installing a new cam and supporting hardware (chain, springs, rockers, retainers) while I'm at it.
see5, I've heard good things about the LS2 chain, but I didn't know it could use the same sprocket. That makes it a very attractive possibility. Thanks!
Eugene
If you are doing this to a '98 I would replace the balancer as well. My 98 had just over 105,000 miles on it when the balancer failed. The rubber section failed and the balancer slid back into the front engine cover. Like you since I had to pull the front cover to replace it I upgraded to what is in my sig. I would use either an ATI or ASP pulley. The ATI is available under driven or stock and the ASP is under driven. I have the ASP and have had no charging problems. Secondly the balancer on the car has been press fit once already. It is stretched over the crank snout and will not fit at tightly the second time. This can cause the crank bolt to walk. If you want to stay stock then at least use a new balancer. I would pin it if possible. I wish I had but it is not absolutely needed.
GM PART # 88958608
CATEGORY: Belt or Chain, Engine Timing (LS2}
From the 2004 GM Performance Parts Catalog: page 106:
88958607 Timing Chain Damper, LS1, LS6
“This timing chain damper is intended for high engine speed applications and is used to improve timing chain life. Some blocks require drilling and tapping- an instruction sheet is included. “
GM PART # 88958607
CATEGORY: Belt or Chain, Engine Timing
DESCRIPTION: DAMPENER
The other parts may have new numbers that the dealer will have.
Good luck with the project!
Give Scoggin-Dickey's parts/tech line a call they will hook you up with what you need, and also give good advice on what else you need that you hadn't thought of yet.
gmpartsdirect is great, but getting support or questions answered from them is impossible.
Go back to jmXs site and check out the C5 h/c swap to see the corvette version of what you want. He also lists the part numbers and tools required. But yeah, you do need to get in that far anyway.
Originally Posted by leaftye
Help!
I'm not having much luck looking up part #'s to get these off of GMPartsDirect.com.