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LS6 Oil Pump Installation

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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 09:12 PM
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Default LS6 Oil Pump Installation

How do you install the LS6 oil pump? I've been searching, but all I've seen is the F-body installation on ls1howto.com, but it requires soo much work I might as well install a cam and double roller chain if I have to do soo much work. The F-body is a pain because they can't remove the oil pan without lifting the engine or removing the k-member. I'm hoping I can just remove oil pan and get access to the oil pump. Thanks!

Eugene
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by leaftye
How do you install the LS6 oil pump? I've been searching, but all I've seen is the F-body installation on ls1howto.com, but it requires soo much work I might as well install a cam and double roller chain if I have to do soo much work. The F-body is a pain because they can't remove the oil pan without lifting the engine or removing the k-member. I'm hoping I can just remove oil pan and get access to the oil pump. Thanks!

Eugene
You'll have to do about the same amount of work as installing a cam. In fact, you should use jmX's cam install instructions. If you're going that far you might as well put a cam in and upgrade the timing set. Removing the steering rack is not a fun task.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 10:14 PM
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I put heads/cam/oil pump ,no way around it ,you gotta remove the st. rack,I used jmx's site& everything came out perfect,very important is the oil pump O-ring,get it in perfect or you oil pressure will be very low& youll have to take it apart again .
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 01:07 AM
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Agree with the above. Do a cam and new timing chain while you have everything ripped apart.


Here is the C5 how to.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...72ec67f76905f9
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeffvette
Agree with the above. Do a cam and new timing chain while you have everything ripped apart.


Here is the C5 how to.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...72ec67f76905f9
I used LS1 howto.com. It was good. But I cant stress this enough, USE LOCKTIGHT AND TORQUE YOUR BALANCER DOWN RIGHT (over 250ft lbs.)!!! Everything else is simple. If your doing the oil pump, you should do the cam. Even a really small one, it will improve you mpg, power, sound(get rid of the popping on decelaration), and you dont even need to have it tuned.
The steering rack isnt that bad, its not hard just a little more time consuming. I've pulled mine a few times know. I did I mention USE LOCKTIGHT AND TORQUE YOUR BALANCER DOWN RIGHT?

J
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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Why are you using an LS6 oil pump? Is it different from an LS1 oil pump?

The oil pump is on the front of the crank shaft. You don't have to remove the oil pan at all, but you basically have to take the entire front of the motor apart.

Steve
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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Replacing the pump is easy and the pan need not be dropped as stated. Just be very sure on the O ring :
1. that you do not drop it into the pan.
2. that the new one is in proper position.
The double chain may be overkill (standing by for flack) and you will have to replace crank gear which is troubling.
The new LS2 GM chain is very stout by comparison and will go on stock crank gear while pump is out.
Suit yourself.
LS1 and LS2 chain below:


If you are really concerned I did this:

Last edited by see5; Oct 26, 2004 at 12:11 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 11:37 AM
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Stephen, the early LS1 pumps are known to fail. I'm nearing 80K miles on my '98, so this is something I'm getting very concerned about. The LS6 pump is supposed to be more reliable, and have more volume and pressure, at least when it's ported like those sold by most vendors. Also, I was looking at dropping the pan as an alternative to taking the front all apart. I'm one of those people that figure that if I have it apart, I might as well upgrade. Unless someone has a different way of doing this, I guess I'll be installing a new cam and supporting hardware (chain, springs, rockers, retainers) while I'm at it.

see5, I've heard good things about the LS2 chain, but I didn't know it could use the same sprocket. That makes it a very attractive possibility. Thanks!

Eugene
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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What does that do?

Originally Posted by see5
If you are really concerned I did this:
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FroDaddy
What does that do?
It is a "tensioner" now offered by GM performance. Keeps the chain from following the gear at higher rpms.
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 10:44 PM
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VERY cool info!!!
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
VERY cool info!!!
on the link
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by leaftye
I was looking at dropping the pan as an alternative to taking the front all apart. I'm one of those people that figure that if I have it apart, I might as well upgrade. Unless someone has a different way of doing this, I guess I'll be installing a new cam and supporting hardware (chain, springs, rockers, retainers) while I'm at it.

see5, I've heard good things about the LS2 chain, but I didn't know it could use the same sprocket. That makes it a very attractive possibility. Thanks!

Eugene
If you are doing this to a '98 I would replace the balancer as well. My 98 had just over 105,000 miles on it when the balancer failed. The rubber section failed and the balancer slid back into the front engine cover. Like you since I had to pull the front cover to replace it I upgraded to what is in my sig. I would use either an ATI or ASP pulley. The ATI is available under driven or stock and the ASP is under driven. I have the ASP and have had no charging problems. Secondly the balancer on the car has been press fit once already. It is stretched over the crank snout and will not fit at tightly the second time. This can cause the crank bolt to walk. If you want to stay stock then at least use a new balancer. I would pin it if possible. I wish I had but it is not absolutely needed.
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:11 PM
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Default Part #'s

Help!

I'm not having much luck looking up part #'s to get these off of GMPartsDirect.com.

I need the:

Oil pump o-ring
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221628 (can't get here from work)
tensioner
LS2 timing chain
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Water pump gasket
GM harmonic balancer bolt

So far I've found:
Oil Pump 12563964

Not so good eh? I hope I'm not asking too much. Thanks a bunch!

Eugene
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:40 PM
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The oil pump 0 ring is 12557752

GM PART # 88958608
CATEGORY: Belt or Chain, Engine Timing (LS2}

From the 2004 GM Performance Parts Catalog: page 106:
88958607 Timing Chain Damper, LS1, LS6
“This timing chain damper is intended for high engine speed applications and is used to improve timing chain life. Some blocks require drilling and tapping- an instruction sheet is included. “
GM PART # 88958607
CATEGORY: Belt or Chain, Engine Timing
DESCRIPTION: DAMPENER

The other parts may have new numbers that the dealer will have.
Good luck with the project!
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 03:52 PM
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Give Scoggin-Dickey's parts/tech line a call they will hook you up with what you need, and also give good advice on what else you need that you hadn't thought of yet.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/
order line: 800-456-0211
tech line: 806-798-4108

gmpartsdirect is great, but getting support or questions answered from them is impossible.

Go back to jmXs site and check out the C5 h/c swap to see the corvette version of what you want. He also lists the part numbers and tools required. But yeah, you do need to get in that far anyway.

Originally Posted by leaftye
Help!

I'm not having much luck looking up part #'s to get these off of GMPartsDirect.com.

I need the:

Oil pump o-ring
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221628 (can't get here from work)
tensioner
LS2 timing chain
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Water pump gasket
GM harmonic balancer bolt

So far I've found:
Oil Pump 12563964

Not so good eh? I hope I'm not asking too much. Thanks a bunch!

Eugene
Reply
Old Nov 20, 2004 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by see5
It is a "tensioner" now offered by GM performance. Keeps the chain from following the gear at higher rpms.
Does the block already have mounting holes for the tensioner?
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffvette
Agree with the above. Do a cam and new timing chain while you have everything ripped apart.


Here is the C5 how to.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...72ec67f76905f9
Yeah big waste of time if your just upgrading the pump and nothingg else
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PewterC5
Does the block already have mounting holes for the tensioner?
Some early ones do and I believe LS6s do. My 2000 did not but it is not a big deal to drill and tap in place.
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