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Well, I just got home from Sears (Store not Point), and I got a cool lo-profile all aluminum jack and 4-3 Ton Jackstands. I am all set to change my brake pads and rotors this weekend (for the first time), and I was envisioning putting the car up on 4 jackstands on the cross-members to fully elevate the car.
The safety instructions for the jackstands say to NEVER use jackstands to elevate one side or both ends of the vehicle. My neighbor thinks it is crazy to try and wrench on those 21 mm caliper bracket bolts while the car is on 4 jack stands. I'm starting to wonder if it would be safer to just lift one end of the car at a time, although I was sort of thought it would be cool to get all 4 wheels off the car at once and have a peek around. I don't want to be unsafe for the sake of trying to be cool.
Anyway, I know that you guys have experience with this... What would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Well, I just got home from Sears (Store not Point), and I got a cool lo-profile all aluminum jack and 4-3 Ton Jackstands. I am all set to change my brake pads and rotors this weekend (for the first time), and I was envisioning putting the car up on 4 jackstands on the cross-members to fully elevate the car.
The safety instructions for the jackstands say to NEVER use jackstands to elevate one side or both ends of the vehicle. My neighbor thinks it is crazy to try and wrench on those 21 mm caliper bracket bolts while the car is on 4 jack stands. I'm starting to wonder if it would be safer to just lift one end of the car at a time, although I was sort of thought it would be cool to get all 4 wheels off the car at once and have a peek around. I don't want to be unsafe for the sake of trying to be cool.
Anyway, I know that you guys have experience with this... What would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Eitherway works just changed my rotors tonight and did each corner very simple had both front done in probably 40 minutes start to finish.
May sound stupid but standard in my family when we have a car up on four jack stands is we give the car a bump on the rear quarter panel to make sure it is stable. Sound like a disaster if the car would fall when you do this, but no comparison to the disaster if it falls when you are under it. I have worked on my vette on four jack stands and it seemed stable. Good luck.
I would recommend getting the jacking pucks, much better than using the cross members. I have used the cross members in the past, they will work also. Just make sure you have them all seated good.
I just replaced all my rotors last week. I just jacked the car up on the corner I was working on, put a jackstand under the car and left the floor jack, too. It worked fine for me.
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
I do it all the time. Make sure the surface is level. My driveway is sloped so I place plywood under one side of the stand (two legs) to make the jack stand plumb. Then I jack the front first to get two stands under it as low as possible. Then do the same for the back. Then you can do it in a few lifts to the top. Leave enough room between the stands to get the jack out. Easy to work on the car then. You can shove a tire and rim under the car for safety where you are not working for addtional safety. It should be stable enough. I can get in and out of the car with no problem.
[QUOTE=John Shiels]I do it all the time. My driveway is sloped so I place plywood under one side of the stand (two legs) to make the jack stand plumb. Then I jack the front first to get two stands under it as low as possible. Then do the same for the back. Leave enough room between the stands to get the jack out. Easy to work on the car then. It should be stable enough.
SCARY !! FWIW
If the jack stands are not perfectly level at equal height above a median horizon line, (not the driveway sloped surface) there will be an angular horizonal moment of enertia. This means that if any force is applied to the vehicle in the direction of the downward slope, an additional force equal to a factor of the vehicles weight will be added to the original force applied to the vehicle. This can be a significant force and the higher the jackstands, the more unstable this situation becomes. Gee, I hope I got all that right!
I put my car on jack stands to change oil and the brake pads as well.
Yes I am very careful and make sure the car is secure. Usully when I change rotors it is one rotor at a time. One rotor cracks at a weekend event, so I change it then. When I get home I change the opposit rotor. So this is only jacking up one corner of the car, and yes I do put a jack stand under that corner.
Or I change one rotor at a time then put the car up on jack stands to bleed the brakes - or adjust the brake peddle. and change the oil.
From: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
[QUOTE=Old Timer]
Originally Posted by John Shiels
I do it all the time. My driveway is sloped so I place plywood under one side of the stand (two legs) to make the jack stand plumb. Then I jack the front first to get two stands under it as low as possible. Then do the same for the back. Leave enough room between the stands to get the jack out. Easy to work on the car then. It should be stable enough.
SCARY !! FWIW
If the jack stands are not perfectly level at equal height above a median horizon line, (not the driveway sloped surface) there will be an angular horizonal moment of enertia. This means that if any force is applied to the vehicle in the direction of the downward slope, an additional force equal to a factor of the vehicles weight will be added to the original force applied to the vehicle. This can be a significant force and the higher the jackstands, the more unstable this situation becomes. Gee, I hope I got all that right!
Be safe out there
If the stands are plumb the difference in hieght is by the jacks themselves. Like building metal tube scaffolding on sloped ground.
First off, just lift the one corner you're working on. You'll find that there's very little reason for you to get yourself under the car to do this job.
Second, I'm very skeptical of the claim of doing all four rotors in 40 minutes. I'd expect to take a lot more time than that unless you've got a lift.
Third, you can turn the steering wheel to get to the caliper bracket bolts on the fronts. An impact gun makes quick work of these. The rears, though, are a different story. I ended up using my jack handle as an extension to get the suckers loose, and torquing them back down is no fun either.
Finally, you can reuse the bolts, just put some red loctite on them and you'll be good to go.
Never put mine on jack stands. I use large wood blocks like the boatyards. If you have a car come off jack stand due to them falling over, you will understand why I do it this way. I just don't trust them for putting the whole car in the air.
If the stands are plumb the difference in hieght is by the jacks themselves. Like building metal tube scaffolding on sloped ground.
FWIW
I always thought that plumb refered to 0 degree vertical angularity. Oh well, any way, what I was refering to was if the vehicle wasn'ttrulylevel, not just parallel to the driveway surface.
Be safe
Barry
Last edited by Old Timer; Nov 1, 2004 at 03:02 AM.
This may seem simple minded, but if you do put the car up on jackstands, why not put something else underneath, so if it does slip off, at least it won't drop?
I would recommend getting the jacking pucks, much better than using the cross members. I have used the cross members in the past, they will work also. Just make sure you have them all seated good.
I've only had mine on 4 stands using the cross members once, and will not do it again. The car never felt stable and came very close to falling off. For brake work, i've always just lifted 1/2 of the car done the work there, then moved to the other half. the only bad part to doing it this way is that on 01 or newer cars (mine) you have to do some extra work, to bleed them in the proper order, but it's worth it to me for the extra comfort.
I've only had mine on 4 stands using the cross members once, and will not do it again. The car never felt stable and came very close to falling off. For brake work, i've always just lifted 1/2 of the car done the work there, then moved to the other half. the only bad part to doing it this way is that on 01 or newer cars (mine) you have to do some extra work, to bleed them in the proper order, but it's worth it to me for the extra comfort.
That site make me cringe every time I see it.... I ALWAYS use the cross members when putting the car up on all 4 stands.. It is much more stable!
I have been under wrenching away without the slightest movement of the car.. All that rubber that is shown in the link just adds to the extra movement of the car.. With all that rubber and the fact that the stands are placed at the edge of the car using the lift points makes it unstable..
I bet one good shove to the rear 1/4 panel could rock that whole thing off.