Well, despite having a lot of work to do around the house yesterday and company all day today, I managed to get the headers in over the weekend. I made notes along the way that hopefully will provide others with some useful tips. There was one minor glitch, but nothing serious. The only thing I have left to do is finish the dipstick installation and then do a complete check of my work to make sure I didn't do anything stupid (I have been known to do that too ) All in all, these are very easy headers to install. Besides removing the stock manifolds and exhaust system which is obvious, you only need to remove the starter and even with that you don't have to remove the wires just move it out of the way (I suspended it on a piece of rope so I could maneuver it from below while feeding in the header). The starter is very light, not like in my Suburban.

I also removed the coil packs since it takes only two minutes and there isn't as much to cut your hands on while working. You also need to remove the alternator to remove the stock manifold on the driver's side.

You don't have to remove the valve covers or jack the motor. I did this installation alone on my back in a small 12X16 garage (carpeted floor though ). All of the O2 sensors went into place easy and wired without extensions. The rears are routed the same as stock so there is no chance of burning the wires. I also figured out a way to wire the drivers side using the original frame clips so they are way out of the way of the headers. The passenger side I just used some wire ties to keep them up away from the headers.

Haven't fired it up yet, I like to wait a day after a major job to rethink everything and make sure I didn't forget anything (don't like to rush). But if all goes well, we'll fire her up tomorrow night (Monday) and schedule the tune for next Friday.

I took lots of photos along the way. I also don't think the system is any lower than stock, although from the pictures I took its hard to tell because I shot at two different angles :o . I can measure if anyone needs some numbers.

Bottom line: Easy installation, heck I even did it

 

I feel your pain, I installed my KOOKs in a small one car garage. You don't really need more room but it sure would have been nice.

 

Congrats on the install Vettenuts. Good luck with getting everything buttoned up and good luck with the tune

 

Post some pictures.

 

Thanks for the info Vettenutts, it gives me hope than maybe even I can do this. I'll look forward to the pictures and any other info you can pass on to help those of us who will follow shortly. I really like your idea to sleep on things and go over everything once more before firing up to make sure nothing is left undone. Great Job!!

 

Any photos in particular you can use now? It may take me some time to do a write-up. I have about 75 pictures so far Digital cameras are great for that, just keep on snapping

 

 

Can't wait for pics, impressions of SOTP and dyno results!

 

Vettenuts, did you use the QTP X pipe and cat backs with the headers you just installed? I think I have narrowed my header selection down to QTP T-Y's or the new GHL's that there coming out with that LAPD just installed. Please post your pics

 

RoHo,

Let me know what kind of photo's you would like to see and I will put them up. I just got back in from taking it out for its maiden voyage. First time I have seen the Traction Control turn on from a rolling start

I can post them tomorrow night with a small write-up I hope. I did use the RT X pipe that QTP sells with the system. I would also get the header gaskets from them as well. Barry uses the Camaro gaskets and they are perfect for headers. I don't think the stock Vette gaskets, having now seen them and the Camaro gaskets, are a good fit for QTP's or any header for that matter.

SOTP is there, hope to have dyno by the end of the week.

 

Vettenutts, we'll look forward to whatever pictures you have that might help us with later installs!

 

Here is the car getting its baseline dyno. Peak HP was 305. I am hoping for the final dyno and tune this Thursday.



Here is the driver's side header prior to installation. Note how the tubes go from 4 to 2 to 1, which then mate with the Randon Technology CAT system and "X" pipe.



Here is the passenger's side header. Note that both of these essentially slipped right in but there are few things to watch for.



I had a hard time seeing what was in the way on the driver's side, turned out to be this little clip that secures the clutch line. I loosened the bolt and moved the clip up and the header slipped right in. You just have to watch for the wires. I did it with the ground strap still in place, in hindsight it would have been easier to remove the ground strap first.



Based on others experiences with their header installations, and since I was alone, I put a socket over the temperature sensor to protect it during the installation.

 

On the driver's side, when you remove the system I would suggest disconnecting the connectors from the frame by separating them from the grey tab that inserts into the frame. In the photo below, I have the square connector for the rear O2 sensor re-installed on the tab previously used for the front sensor. You can just make out the front flat connector hanging above by the blue safety clip on the plug. When the O2 sensors for the front are in, it places the wire and connector for the front up high and away from the header. No extensions are required.



When I re-installed the serpetine belt, I put my socket on the tensioner and then ran the belt around the pulleys and placed it on my socket. Then you just get your wrench, rotate the tensioner and slip it on the pulley. The socket helped with the extra pair of hands you don't have if you are working alone.



Here is the RT CATS looking forward to the headers. Hopefully this gives you an idea how low the system hangs (or doesn't hang).



Finished up passenger side. My headers required a slight modification to the dipstick which I took photo's of also. Barry stated that the later versions won't require this modification. I also changed the O-ring on the dipstick tube, $4 for a teeny O-ring from the dealer. Boy am I in the wrong business Also, the headers come with an allen head bolt for re-installing the dipstick tube. The original won't fit.



Finished driver's side. This is where I got my little knick in my Autobuffs fuel rail cover because the AIR valve was closer to the head and I didn't realize it until too late. So take caution here if you have aftermarket covers.



This is where I had my only glitch. The bolt heads on the fly wheel cover are very large. The headers are tucked very close to the cover. I had contact with one of the original bolts. So I went to the local store and bought a stainless steel bolt that had a thinner hex head. The new bolt is circled and one of the original bolts has an arrow pointing to it so you can see the difference in the size of the head. This provided enough clearance to resolve the contact issue. You may or may not need this bolt, but be aware of it just in case. Once the headers were in place, the tabs almost aligned perfectly with the bracket. There was no wrestling the pipes into place.




Well, that' a brief overview, let me know if you have questions or need other pictures. I will post my dyno results hopefully Friday if all goes well on Thursday. Oh, and my first trip out I hit a four lane road and starting ripping 1st and 2nd gear, look across the highway and there is someone on the other side getting a ticket. That was close

 

What mods did you have on car to get it to 305 baseline RWHP? Any? MN6 or A4?

Good job!

 

Vettenuts,

Did you post pictures? I am reading you description but no photos show up. Can you email them to me please?

Congratulations on the install, I cant wait to get started now

 

George,

Not sure why photo's don't show up. I can e-mail them no problem.

 

Z06 exhaust and a Donaldson. Other then that, it was stock. Car is a MN6.

 

Vettenuts,
Looks Awesome! I'm looking forward to seeing the dyno slip. Do you know the part number to the Camaro gaskets??

 

Nice pics, good write up...did my LGM's myself on a concrete floor so also feel your pain! Looking forward to your Dyno results! Good job

 

No and I threw the package away. I will see if I can fish it out of the trash