My beautiful '03 AE has had a certain electrical problem since this June. (I brought this problem up on the "C5 General" forum.) Overnight the situation got really weird: when I went into the garage this morning the car's radio was playing! I had driven the car yesterday and did not turn the radio switch off, but of course, turning the car off killed the radio power. In fact, because of the problem I have been having, I checked the car several times before midnight--everything was off.
Does anyone have any idea as to what would cause the radio to power up by itself? By the way, even though the new battery had 11.51 volts this morning the car would not start; not even a sound from the starting system. The dealer tech said that 10 volts should start the car.
(For the record, the dealer has been great in trying to solve the issue but the car is about to go back for its seventh "visit"! They cannot correct the problem, that's why I need Forum help.) I am now also looking for a lemon-law lawyer. Thanks, Jim

 

Jim-
The C5 will not start with a 11.51 volt battery voltage. Load voltage will drop to substantially under 11.51 volts. Might I suggest checking the ignition switch if this has not been done yet? There have been reports of defective ignition switches.

 

Have you checked the passenger floorboard for water, a wet BCM can do things like this. Good Luck, Jeff

 

Thanks, Jeff,
I have checked the BCM area and there never was water there. In addition, on my last trip to the dealer they put in a new BCM because they found that it was not "going to sleep".

 

My first thought with any electrical problem is a ground connection being loose or intermittent; however, that doesn't seem to explain your condition.

I'm with the person above that suggested a check of the ignition switch. The radio being on with the car off could indicate that the vehicle is inadvertantly in Acc mode. If the switch is malfunctioning, that may explain it.

The car not starting is no real surprise to me - that's pretty low voltage - if you turn it 'ON' though is everything normal? (i.e. everything working except for the car running?

Are there any codes? Often in these cases (and I HAVE experienced this) if there is a short somewhere or a faulty ground the car will throw every code from A-Z... (I had a loose gnd on the underhood fuse box and the car acted like it was possessed).

Sorry that I'm not familiar with your previous issues or I may be able to help more...

 

Thanks, Yellow01,
I haven't checked for codes. Briefly, my problem has been this: sometimes when I open the door the chime sounds immediately. That tells me that the car will not turn over---no sound at all. Lights, et al, do work. Sometimes the battery has drained totally, sometimes not. (I guess it matters at which point I catch the chime.) Dealer is terrific except for one tiny detail: the techs cannot solve the problem.

 

it must be jealous of all the attention the cobalt and c6 have been getting so it decided to play its radio too

 

CHRISTINE

 

 

Do you mean the chime that sounds as if the key is in the ignition and the door is opened? (but it actually isn't?)

That again may indicate the ignition switch...(If I understand right) when you hear the chime the car thinks the key is in place - this is when it will not start - if the ignition switch has an issue, maybe the position of the switch is incorrect - causing the chiming when you open the door and when you turn the key it simply does not correctly go into the 'start' position (internally). maybe?

Especially if it's intermittent.

Battery drain means there must be a current draw on the battery. This short could take the form of a physical short(such as faulty connector somewhere) or could take the form of some portion of the car being on when it should not be.

Here's a hair-brained idea (I'm an EE not an electronics guy) - but here's what I'd do - get a volt meter. One by one, with the car 'off' pull a fuse and measure voltage across the terminals in the fuse location (you may need a wire or something to put in to make contact).

There should be no current draw if everything is off. If you find a voltage across any of the fuse locations, there's a current draw. You may be able to isolate what is drawing current from the battery this way (I dunno, may be a long shot, but it's what I'd do next).

Now here's the caveat - I'm not 100% familiar with all the fuses. Undoubtedly some functions of the car will intentionally be active even with the car off (security for example) so this may complicate things. With a good list of fuses this may still work though.

 

i would sell the car or your problems will never stop especially electrical once

 

Hello.. I had a similiar problem with my '04 A4 Coupe with 3000 miles not starting.. The security light would flash and without my key in the ignition the radio would play..My installer found some loose fuses (anti theft & security) under the passenger side floor board that were not tight and the panel itself was loose,,It had come from the factory with this defect but now I have no problems since fuses and board tightened.......Just my $.02... Hope this helps Corvette Brother....and Good Luck!

 

That's right Yellow01, the car thinks that the key is in the ignition but it is not! Whenever that occurs the car will not start; no turnover, no sound, "no nothing". If I catch the chiming at the right time the battery will be salvageable, if not the battery will be destroyed. I've had two new Optimas that were drained beyond recharging and each lasted about 2 weeks!
Thanks for your interest, Jim

 

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That's right Yellow01, the car thinks that the key is in the ignition but it is not! Whenever that occurs the car will not start; no turnover, no sound, "no nothing". If I catch the chiming at the right time the battery will be salvageable, if not the battery will be destroyed. I've had two new Optimas that were drained beyond recharging and each lasted about 2 weeks!
Thanks for your interest, Jim

 

In a way I agree about selling but I will not sell the car the way
it is because that would be extremely unfair to the next owner

 

Jim

I have been reviewing this post and racking my brain in the books. The only thing in common with the radio and ignition switch is the BCM via the communications link. If the BCM thinks the key is still in the ignition, it will turn things on and never allow the other modules to sleep.
I would see if the dealer will replace or at least investigate the ignition switch circuit.

There are a number of relays that the ignition switch controls. Maybe one of those relays is bad and always staying on. One of the MAIN ones is the MONITORED RELAY.

Well thats my 2 cents for the night.
'
Please post and keep me upto date on this funkey issue.

Bill C

 

Problems like this can be the most frustrating and difficult things to fix. It sounds like the BCM is inadvertanley going into RAP ( Retained Accessory Power) mode. The BCM controls and provides power to the radio, windows, IPC, etc. There are many events and conditions such as the door ajar switches, ignition switch position, etc. that tell the BCM to initiate power to these devices. Since the dealer already replaced the BCM, It would make sense to look at all of the other devices that influence the BCM, as well as checking the ground connections. It sure would be nice if somebody could come up with some sort of diagnostic tool that would monitor and record all of the zillions of signals that influence these intermittent failures. It seems like these problems only happen at night when your in bed, and it's near impossible to duplicate at the dealership.

 

Hi, Bill,
Thanks for giving my problrm some thought. The car has been at the dealer's for two weeks. I'll drop a note if there is anything to report.
Jim

 

Just a "thanks" to all who expended energy and time to even think about my car's weird problem, and then took more time to respond on the Forum. This Forum comprises some pretty terrific people. I will implement or tell the techinician at the dealership those suggestions that haven't already been tried. They've had the car for two weeks and when I get it back I will post a note here.
Thanks again,
Jim

 

As the door latch microswitch is one of the signals to the BCM to shut various systems down I'm suprised nobody suggested to replace the door latch. I know they're entirely different but we put door latch mechanisms in the Volvo's ALL the time. This especially comes to mind seeing as the radio stays on with the key out.... until you open the door. ?!? yes no?