Unclear on "zero balancing" flywheel....
1600 rpm
2500 rpm
around 4000 rpm
I can feel this in the shifter and steering wheel. It's not real obvious but I used to be an automotive engineer and have been trained to look for issues like this.
My car is at the dealer now for a number of warranty items and I've complained about this vibration.
Then install the new assembly in the same orientation on the crank as the old.
If you don't your rolling the dice
My vibration starts at 2100 RPM and continues up to redline. Around 4k it gets bad. Since I have 4.10's, cruising on the highway at just over 2k RPM's is very annoying due to the balance issue. On full throttle upshifts and on downshifts the vibrations get more severe.
I had heads/cam with a pulley installed for about 9 months until I replaced the clutch/flywheel. I had no balance issues at all until the clutch/flywheel was replaced. I am hoping the clutch assembly is a zero balanced unit as I no longer have the original unit.






My vibration starts at 2100 RPM and continues up to redline. Around 4k it gets bad. Since I have 4.10's, cruising on the highway at just over 2k RPM's is very annoying due to the balance issue. On full throttle upshifts and on downshifts the vibrations get more severe.
I had heads/cam with a pulley installed for about 9 months until I replaced the clutch/flywheel. I had no balance issues at all until the clutch/flywheel was replaced. I am hoping the clutch assembly is a zero balanced unit as I no longer have the original unit.
Mine is a pulse right 2200-2300 rpms and then nothing else... Like I said I guess there are varying levels of imbalance... I am tempted to knock out the weights and see what it does....
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
They start w/ balancing the clutch and flywheel assembly as a unit;
They also balance the motor assembly (or more accurately the crank on its own, etc.) as a unit.
IF they detect a problem (I'm guessing they spin the motor w/ the flywheel / clutch assembly attached at some point in the production line) they add or remove weight to force the entire rotating assembly into balance.
So the obvious answer here is to mark and remove your stock PP and flywheel upon disassembly, have it measured for balance, then have the new PP and flywheel balanced to the same "spec" as the old, and re-assemble in the same orientation.
The up-side of this is you'll never experience more vibration than you had before the clutch job; the down-side is you loose the opportunity to (possibly) improve on the stock GM balance..
My understanding: any OE balast weights on stock flywheel was to 0 bal PP/FW assy at factory, not necessarily to 0 bal the motor rotating assy. IF this is the case, then it would stand to reason that simply making sure the new clutch assy is neutral should prevent any vibe issues.
My experience: I've replaced ~ a dozen C5 clutches. I've never transferred weights from old flywheel to new. I usually have the new PP/FW checked for 0 bal, and in each case they were good. Also, I've had several old clutch assy's referenced for balance to find they were at/near 0. I do not recall if these had balast on the flywheel or not. Anyway, I've not had a single clutch balance issue until very recently, possibly. A customer brought me a LUK clutch assy. It had the markings and cuts of a spun-balanced assy. I installed it, then drove it, seemed fine. However, since customer has had the car, he believes there is a vibration at specific RPM. While his vibration could also be his exhaust system moved and touching heat shields (TPIS header floating collector connection always been a problem with Xpipe sliding/moving/leaking), it might be possible the LUK is not balanced.
I will be watching this thread closely to see if anyone uncovers a clear definition of what needs done regarding the matter. Yah, anyone have Dave Hill's phone number?!?!
Robert/ Gen 3 Motorsports
Mfrnka and I decided to experiment and knock out the two weights that I had transferred from my old flywheel to the new one. Believe it or not the pulsing/vibration at 2200-2300 rpms is absolutely gone! It feels much smoother than with the weights in the flywheel...
Just my experience...
Last edited by SideStep; Dec 15, 2004 at 12:11 AM.


Mfrnka and I decided to experiment and knock out the two weights that I had transferred from my old flywheel to the new one. Believe it or not the pulsing/vibration at 2200-2300 rpms is absolutely gone! It feels much smoother than with the weights in the flywheel...
Just my experience...

Unfortunatley my butt is still too sore from slipping and falling in tranny fluild last week so its preventing me from doing alot of work to my car, and being away this past weekend put a damper on the progress of my car. Havnet pulled the flywheel yet. I also havent had the time to drop off the flywheel/p plate (both old and new) cause of my darn work schedule, to get them spun balanced to see how close to zero each one is.
I just talked to a friend who just did his F body, he put in a Mcleod clutch and aluminum flywheel. He did not transfer any weights (nor does he remeber if his old FW had weights) and he relied on the factory "prebalancing" of the mclod kit, he reports no vibration.
Last edited by eRiCdWoNg; Dec 15, 2004 at 12:18 AM.
Mfrnka and I decided to experiment and knock out the two weights that I had transferred from my old flywheel to the new one. Believe it or not the pulsing/vibration at 2200-2300 rpms is absolutely gone! It feels much smoother than with the weights in the flywheel...
Just my experience...

Good job on fixing your problem.
1600 rpm
2500 rpm
around 4000 rpm
I can feel this in the shifter and steering wheel. It's not real obvious but I used to be an automotive engineer and have been trained to look for issues like this.
My car is at the dealer now for a number of warranty items and I've complained about this vibration.
I took it back in and the GM regional guy told the dealer to just pull out the 2nd clutch, order a 3rd factory clutch, have it balanced and put back in. There is still a faint vibration at these same RPMs but really minor now. What I have now is what sounds like exhaust leaks, really loud ticking sounds from 1800 to 2500, so I am guessing the exhaust was not bolted down correctly.
Now I have contacted our district rep and he is sending the car to Bill Estes in Indy, they have 2 very good vette technicians, our local dealer didn't even have the right tools to do the shift fork TSB (alum to steel).


IIRC the Pro Gold kit the flywheel is a Fidanza?













