Modify steering response on C5
It may help for auto-x, but would be bad for road racing.
If you just want more road feel thru the steering wheel, you shouldn't need to do anything with your tires or Magnasteer, just do the bushings. If you want increased steering effort, then you could do tires, Magnasteer and even a smaller steering wheel. If you want it to turn in better you could do mass reduction, bushings, alignment. It really depends on what you want. Since steering is so important to you, and I know you want to get it right, you should read the 1997 SAE pubs about the Corvette.
Bill
Variable Effort Steering Description
The scan tool can be used to adjust the amount of steering assist if the customer requests. The steering assist has 3 setting:
Factory calibration
More Firm
Less Firm
I agree that the programming cannot be changed, but the dealer CAN adjust the system to your needs. It may or maynot be what you are looking for, but worth a try.
Variable Effort Steering Description
The scan tool can be used to adjust the amount of steering assist if the customer requests. The steering assist has 3 setting:
Factory calibration
More Firm
Less Firm
I agree that the programming cannot be changed, but the dealer CAN adjust the system to your needs. It may or maynot be what you are looking for, but worth a try.

Hopefully I can still use it disable the light & errors after I remove my airbag(s), turn off the tire pressure sensor messages and......dangit, I need another "and"! Actually, like a dozen more. Those Tech II's are far from cheap!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
It sounds like the rubber bushings are the things I need to tackle first. Any recommendations on where I can get these? Also, would you happen to have a link to the "1997 SAE pubs about the Corvette"? My google search didn't come up with any direct links.
I will report back to the forum with results of the bushing modification.
Thanks!
If you just want more road feel thru the steering wheel, you shouldn't need to do anything with your tires or Magnasteer, just do the bushings. If you want increased steering effort, then you could do tires, Magnasteer and even a smaller steering wheel. If you want it to turn in better you could do mass reduction, bushings, alignment. It really depends on what you want. Since steering is so important to you, and I know you want to get it right, you should read the 1997 SAE pubs about the Corvette.
Another option is to get the T1 control arms. The T1 control arms have stiffer rubber bushings already installed, and are the only way to get T1 bushings.
Global West makes Delrin bushings, but I don't believe they make Delrin bushings for the C5 yet.
LG uses metal spherical bushings, but if they sell them, they aren't advertising it. Give Lou a call and ask. The metal spherical bushings are going to be very noisy. Remember when I said a 20 dB noise reduction from the bushings? Eliminating that reduction will make the suspension anywhere from at least 2x as loud, to more than 3x as loud.
I don't have a direct link to the SAE pub, but going to www.sae.org reveals a search box at the top of the window. Type in "SP-1282" and it'll come right up. It cost me about $25. Try it again with "Corvette" as the search parameter. You'll see a couple other SAE pubs not included in SP-1282, and a bunch of SAE pubs coming out for the next Z06.
To answer some questions.....I'm using Nitto NT555 tires all around (the car came with them when I purchased them). Running them at 30psi all around as recommended.
Also, for a comparison, I had been driving a 1995 M3 for 4 year prior to buying the C5, and a 1995 RX7 prior to that. The steering input on those cars seemed much more precise -- it seemed like you could "feel" the road, the cracks, and everything. When you turned into a corner, the responsiveness through the steering wheel was a much more "connected" feeling. To me it feels like the C5 is probably a better handling car than either, but just harder to control since the steering feedback is somewhat vague.
I'd love to just "turn down" the magnasteer effect, or, better yet, swap it for a steering system that has very limited assist. What do folks that race C5s use for steering systems? I was surprised that none of the vendors out there offered some sort of aftermarket steering product, or someone hasn't done some reprogramming of the magnasteer code.
I'd prefer not to mess with the alignment at the expense of abnormal tire wear, if at all possible.
I like the suggestion to go with runflats if that equates to stiffer tire and steering feel. I would sacrifice some traction for better steering feel. That's something I think I'll try next -- folks on the forum seem to hate the runflats though. I see alot of suggestions to "get rid of runflats to improve handling."
Finally, I guess I should test drive a Z06 to see how a stiffened suspension and wider tires impact steering feel.
What about going with larger aftermarket wheels? Would putting on 18/19s have a similar impact?
I find when making a lane change at 45 the car is alittle vague because the magnasteer has speed parameters that have it reacting with the same amount of assist then say 35 or 55. But I found from my observation that the assist kind of stays the same at certain speeds and then tightens after a certain speed like, say you are doing 90, and you punch it and do 120 the assist is tighter but it stays kind the same until 140 and then at 150 or 160 the steering is rock tight! So to sum it up this car was designed to to be driven fast, and the faster you go, the steering starts feeling alot better. You cant judge the car by a 45 mph turn in or lane change. Also this cars has so many sensors and stuff that sometimes doing the same turn will feel much better on a different day because of the temp of the road surface or the way the grooves and tread of your tire contacted the road, or just the slight difference in the way you turned in from other days, etc. IMHO, you should just put some adjustable shocks in and leave the suspension alone, it is awesome enough. Too tight and you could spin out without any warning, Good luck anyway




Variable Effort Steering Description
The scan tool can be used to adjust the amount of steering assist if the customer requests. The steering assist has 3 setting:
Factory calibration
More Firm
Less Firm
Bill
T1 control arms -- anyone install just these without going with the full T1 setup?
You talk about feel and handling as if they are the same thing. While I'm with you on the steering feeling light at low speeds, but autocrossing is low speed, and I have zero complaints about the steering between 15-60 mph during autocrosses, and I did one track event where speeds were between 30-100 mph, and the steering felt great too.
If you don't mind the extra noise, and can stand extra harshness, just go for the VBP bushing kit.
Seriously though, you should do more studying before you make drastic changes. Bushings don't seem like much, but they change every aspect of handing and ride. I know I can't say I know enough to make drastic changes. So far I've only done T1 swaybars, fully knowing that they were going to add understeer with a stock wheel/tire setup. I'm also upgrading the springs, knowing it's still a compromise setup aimed for both mid 150 mph open race racing and low speed autocrosses. I haven't fully analyzed the effects of a bushing swap, but I know the options are T1, Delrin and metal sperical bushings. The last two I'd probably have to make myself unless I have get LG to sell whatever they're using to me. I also know if I'm going to mess with super stiff bushings, I'm going to nail the handling down to a tee, so that means using a bump steer kit and putting the car on a rack to check the geometry changes throughout the entire range of motion. If I'm going to install the parts that can take the suspension to the max, I'm going to use it to take it there instead of installing it and hoping for the max.
If you insist on getting max road feel and effort, install metal spherical bushings all around. Install tires with 30 series aspect or less in front, and get them wide and sticky. Check the camber rate changes throughout the range of motion for the front and rear wheels, and change to suit, remembering that you'll need less camber because the bushings won't distort anymore. Turn the caster down a couple notches and set toe to zero. Install a hard mount for the rear tie rod, and then set rear toe to zero as well. Check the "Chassis stiffness" thread in the Autocross forum and implement some of the ideas there. Take weight, a lot of weight out of the car. You can get to 2,800 lbs and still have a street legal car. You can probably get down to 2,600 lbs with a car that "looks" street legal. Do all this, and you'll have a car that'll make the term "riding on rails" sound loose and plush.


Eugene
Eugene









