5W-30 vs. 10W-30?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Si Vis Pacem Habeatis Filios Vestros, Ad Bellum Parare Modo
5W-30 vs. 10W-30?
I was reading an article by Mr. Hib Halverson last night who suggested that 10W-30 synthetic oil would be more appropriate for use than the "recommended" 5W-30. I respect the logic of his argument, and would like opinions from forum members on the following:
1. Have you "switched" from 5W-30 to 10W-30? If so, why?
2. Are you still using Mobil1, or do you use another brand of synthetic oil? If you switched, what brand are you using?
This is the link to the article...some really good information here.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/C5diy/c5diy1.htm
1. Have you "switched" from 5W-30 to 10W-30? If so, why?
2. Are you still using Mobil1, or do you use another brand of synthetic oil? If you switched, what brand are you using?
This is the link to the article...some really good information here.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/C5diy/c5diy1.htm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,220
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From: St. Robert Missouri
I stick with the Mobil1 5-30, and have always done this. A friend that supervises a shop that services gov. vehicles has torn down engines and in the process saw first hand the advantages.
We use M1 exclusively in police vehicles and experience longer service life. Switched from Valvoline a few years back, and that was a good oil, but less cost effective than the M1.
The Vette came with M1, and I also follow the owners manual. This is just my .02
We use M1 exclusively in police vehicles and experience longer service life. Switched from Valvoline a few years back, and that was a good oil, but less cost effective than the M1.
The Vette came with M1, and I also follow the owners manual. This is just my .02
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
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From: San Diego CA
Every so often, I call the experts at Mobil to discuss synthetic oils. The last technical apps person to whom I spoke, explained that most engine wear occurs at startup, even when ambient temps are as high as in the 70s. For this reason, he sees absolutely no advantage to using a heavier weight oil (low temp viscosity) for 99% of C5 drivers. In fact, he, himself uses 0W-40 Mobil 1 in Texas, where the temps are not exactly frigid. Yes, if we look at oil analysis results with a microscope, we can determine that certain oils are a bit better than M1 5W-30, but remember all those who drive other vehicles that use petroleum-based oils and yet get over 200,000 miles out of their engines. My brother-in-law went beyond 300,000 miles in his Toyota van before he sold it. He changed the 5W-30 Castrol every 5000 - 6000 miles and never had an engine-related problem.
There are plenty of other things to worry about these days - why worry about whether your engine will last 200,000 or 300,000 miles?
There are plenty of other things to worry about these days - why worry about whether your engine will last 200,000 or 300,000 miles?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Southwest MI
Originally Posted by BubblePuppy
.....1. Have you "switched" from 5W-30 to 10W-30? If so, why? .....2. Are you still using Mobil1, or do you use another brand of synthetic oil? If you switched, what brand are you using?
I switched to German Made Castrol 0W30 Synthetic (NOT the American made 0W30) in the C5. It’s an exceptionally good oil, more like 35 to 40 weight when hot….and I run that thru a K&N HP1007 filter. I believe it’s the best combo available.
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I use 5W-30 and will continue to do so. I try to follow the factory recommendations so I don't get into any warranty issues. It has done just fine for me. I still use Mobil 1 as I feel it is a very good oil.
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From: Greer SC
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Although I agree that start-up causes more wear than 'normal' driving, driving road courses & other aggressive WOT driving is tough on the egine too, so I use Royal Purple which was recommended by the company that built our C5R-427. They manufacture NASCAR engines, so I assume they know what they are talking about. BTW I use 5W30 in winter & 10W30 in the summer or any day I am at the track. However, if all you do is drive on the street, then 5W30 Mobil-1 is fine.
Last edited by Sully C5; Jan 7, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 861
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From: Fayetteville NC
Originally Posted by 66427-450
Well, here’s my opinion.........
I switched to German Made Castrol 0W30 Synthetic (NOT the American made 0W30) in the C5. It’s an exceptionally good oil, more like 35 to 40 weight when hot….and I run that thru a K&N HP1007 filter. I believe it’s the best combo available.
I switched to German Made Castrol 0W30 Synthetic (NOT the American made 0W30) in the C5. It’s an exceptionally good oil, more like 35 to 40 weight when hot….and I run that thru a K&N HP1007 filter. I believe it’s the best combo available.
MIKE
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Southwest MI
Originally Posted by comecorrect
Do you have a part # for the oil and where do you get it? Thanks!
MIKE
MIKE
It's the 0W30 with the red background (behind the "0w30").... they'll have the 0W30 with a yellow background also, that's the US made stuff, you don't want that! it's way different, different base, additives, etc.
The "Part Number" on a 6 qrt case is 06068. if you like, drop me an email at ronin45230@aol.com and i'll send you pic's
They can order it for you if they're out, it takes a week to get it here. Do some searches, you'll see, it's exceptional oil.
Last edited by 66427-450; Jan 7, 2005 at 08:07 PM.
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From: Mustang OK
Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
I use 5W-30 and will continue to do so. I try to follow the factory recommendations so I don't get into any warranty issues. It has done just fine for me. I still use Mobil 1 as I feel it is a very good oil.
with JD. My '03 GM Service Manual states, "SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle." It does go on to say, "If the temperature range is 0*F (-18*C) or above SAE 10W-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol is acceptable if SAE 5W-30 oils is not available. Areas where the temperature falls below -20*F (-29*C), it is recommended either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures." It specifically states, "Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions." I think you will find that your owner's manual reads much the same.
Last edited by GrayC5; Jan 7, 2005 at 08:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Lake Oswego, Near Portland Oregon
We are switching to 10-30 Red Line for the C5. Its $8.00 Qt rather than $5.00 M1, but that is an insignificant amount. My 2 buddies who build race engines for a living suggest it. I use it in my 2.0L 16V KrautWagon, and NEVER had an engine lube/wear problem in spite of racing use. We use Red Line in the transaxle there too.. I get twice the life out of transmission bearings than with conventional lubes in the gearbox. When we put in a Quaiff diff, they insisted on RedLine gear lube to get the warrantee. I was surprised at the improved life of the transmission bearings, got 2 years rather than 1!
M1 is great, but I think Red Line is a tiny bit better, would use either one in total confidence.
Jennifer
M1 is great, but I think Red Line is a tiny bit better, would use either one in total confidence.
Jennifer
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From: Newberry FL
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Benpup
I was told 10-30 Summer and 5-30 winter, but I'm sticking with 5-30 year around.
Regards
Jim
Regards
Jim
Same info passed to me, but I stick with the Owners manual too, the car is built in an area that sees all seasons, and is tested with the oil it is recommended to be ran with for a reason. Just keep the recommended oil running in the car and you will be fine. Here is my dollars worth.Micah
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From: King George VA
Not trying to get drawn into the debate here, but posting info for those considering switching to 0w30.
AMSOIL makes one of their best oils, the Series 2000 in a 0w30 weight. This oil meets GM spec 4718M for the C5/Z06. I don't know if the Castrol does or not. The Series 2000 0w30 is very comparable to the German Castrol mentioned above, but is made (blended) in Wisconsin and is available via the AMSOIL link to the left or via the link in my signature below.
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
AMSOIL Preferred Customers save about 20% from retail:
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program
Please put 1206638 in the customer number block to ensure sales are credited to my dealership and hence benefit this site. Thanks.
AMSOIL makes one of their best oils, the Series 2000 in a 0w30 weight. This oil meets GM spec 4718M for the C5/Z06. I don't know if the Castrol does or not. The Series 2000 0w30 is very comparable to the German Castrol mentioned above, but is made (blended) in Wisconsin and is available via the AMSOIL link to the left or via the link in my signature below.
AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30
AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide
AMSOIL Preferred Customers save about 20% from retail:
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program
Please put 1206638 in the customer number block to ensure sales are credited to my dealership and hence benefit this site. Thanks.
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Originally Posted by 66427-450
Well, here’s my opinion.........
I switched to German Made Castrol 0W30 Synthetic (NOT the American made 0W30) in the C5. It’s an exceptionally good oil, more like 35 to 40 weight when hot….and I run that thru a K&N HP1007 filter. I believe it’s the best combo available.
I switched to German Made Castrol 0W30 Synthetic (NOT the American made 0W30) in the C5. It’s an exceptionally good oil, more like 35 to 40 weight when hot….and I run that thru a K&N HP1007 filter. I believe it’s the best combo available.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 105
From: Northville Michigan
Ron,
I thought because I do not drive in the winter I would switch to Mobil 1 10W30 when I purchased my Z06.
After reading what Mobil hase to say about their 0W40 European Mobil 1 I have switched to it. It offers the benefit of 0 viscosity at startup and can thicken to 40 weight as the crankcase temperatures elevate.
Good luck with your decision.
I thought because I do not drive in the winter I would switch to Mobil 1 10W30 when I purchased my Z06.
After reading what Mobil hase to say about their 0W40 European Mobil 1 I have switched to it. It offers the benefit of 0 viscosity at startup and can thicken to 40 weight as the crankcase temperatures elevate.
Good luck with your decision.