Complete Widebody Conversion Information
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 38,772
Likes: 621
From: Boston MA
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08,'12-'13
Complete Widebody Conversion Information and Parts list
Here are some cutaway sheets of the front and rear parts
Also i am putting up a complete parts list and step By step Instructions will follow.
Here are the sheets
Also i am putting up a complete parts list and step By step Instructions will follow.
Here are the sheets
Last edited by burtonbl103; Jan 6, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 38,772
Likes: 621
From: Boston MA
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08,'12-'13
Also Wanted to mention that ipurchased ALL MY PARTS FROM BOB WENDORFF AT FICHTNER CHEVROLET ( FORUM VENDOR)parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com
BOB was great and helpfull every step of the way.
ALL PARTS FOR REAR CONVERSION
Rear quarter panels
Left 15932449
Right 15932447
Rear Fender liners
Left 15874588
Right 15874589
Rear Brake scoops inner
Left 15842370
Right 15842371
Rear brake scoops outer
Left 15787683
Right 15787684
Rear inner brake ducts
Left 15842373
Right 15842372
Gurney Flaps (Mud Guards)
Left 15818636
Right 15818637
Seals
15881432 Need 2
Pushpin fasteners
11519444
ALL PARTS FOR FRONT CONVERSION
front Carbon Fiber Fender panels
Left 15779342
Right 15779343
Front Inner Fender liners
Left 15827791
Right 15827792
Front Outer Fender liners
Left 15834373
Right 15834374
Front Nose Clip
15915335
Chin Spoiler Lower
15834249
Front Grille Outer
15857168
Front Grill Inner
15822871
Various Items Nuts and clips
11517700 Need 3
10330821 Need 1
10330822 Need 1
11609411 Need 8
10342936 Need 1
10342937 Need 1
11609489 Need 6
11589259 Need 6
11609489 Need 12
11515638 Need 12
11609487 Need 5
11609871 Need 2
Seals
15881433 Front Nose Seal
15774161 Need 2 1 for each fender
Also if you need a new c6 emblem for the new nose
10370896
Also note on front
You will reuse brake duct tubes and most clips
REAR REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
1. You need to jack the rear of the car up and place on jack stands
2. Remove rear tires
3. Remove inner wheel liner screws and clips
4. Remove the push pin adapters holding the lower valance to the wheel well liner
5. Remove the clips and the screws holding the brake ducts
6. I removed the 1 screw along the bottom of the rocker panel
7. Remove license plate as are two plastic square drive screws are behind it
8. Remove all torq's screws running alone the edge of the fender and rear panel when you open the trunk. There is a bunch. I also removed the lower two on each side of the roof pillar. There are some inside when you open the door as well (6).
9. Remove the wheel well liner once fender is 90% loose it should come out
10. Remove all tail lights
11. There are 2 bolts that you have to remove from the rear fender panel and a metal bracket by reaching inside the two outermost tail light openings.
12. There are nuts that need to be removed from the inside of the wheel well from the same bracket the screws are attached to from above step. There are 2 nuts and a nut and a bolt holding the fender and the rear clip together on each side.
13. Remove 2 screws above exhaust tips to release rear valance as wheel as the square drive screws behind the plate. I just used a skinny flat blade screw drive for this.
14. You will want to disconnect all lights at this point. Reverse, tail lights, third brake and license plate light as well as side markers.
15. Pull lower part of rear valance up and the bottom will come loose. Then you will have to lift the rest above the lip where it screws inside the truck.
16. their is now 2 push in clips that need to be removed from the metal strips that line up all the parts in order to remove the quarter panels
17. Now open the door. Lift from the bottom in the door opening and watch the part that goes under the roof bar. Should lift right off
18. Undo the 3 screws holding the gas door in place. On the other side and set aside. That is the only difference on driver’s side.
End Result
BOB was great and helpfull every step of the way.
ALL PARTS FOR REAR CONVERSION
Rear quarter panels
Left 15932449
Right 15932447
Rear Fender liners
Left 15874588
Right 15874589
Rear Brake scoops inner
Left 15842370
Right 15842371
Rear brake scoops outer
Left 15787683
Right 15787684
Rear inner brake ducts
Left 15842373
Right 15842372
Gurney Flaps (Mud Guards)
Left 15818636
Right 15818637
Seals
15881432 Need 2
Pushpin fasteners
11519444
ALL PARTS FOR FRONT CONVERSION
front Carbon Fiber Fender panels
Left 15779342
Right 15779343
Front Inner Fender liners
Left 15827791
Right 15827792
Front Outer Fender liners
Left 15834373
Right 15834374
Front Nose Clip
15915335
Chin Spoiler Lower
15834249
Front Grille Outer
15857168
Front Grill Inner
15822871
Various Items Nuts and clips
11517700 Need 3
10330821 Need 1
10330822 Need 1
11609411 Need 8
10342936 Need 1
10342937 Need 1
11609489 Need 6
11589259 Need 6
11609489 Need 12
11515638 Need 12
11609487 Need 5
11609871 Need 2
Seals
15881433 Front Nose Seal
15774161 Need 2 1 for each fender
Also if you need a new c6 emblem for the new nose
10370896
Also note on front
You will reuse brake duct tubes and most clips
REAR REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
1. You need to jack the rear of the car up and place on jack stands
2. Remove rear tires
3. Remove inner wheel liner screws and clips
4. Remove the push pin adapters holding the lower valance to the wheel well liner
5. Remove the clips and the screws holding the brake ducts
6. I removed the 1 screw along the bottom of the rocker panel
7. Remove license plate as are two plastic square drive screws are behind it
8. Remove all torq's screws running alone the edge of the fender and rear panel when you open the trunk. There is a bunch. I also removed the lower two on each side of the roof pillar. There are some inside when you open the door as well (6).
9. Remove the wheel well liner once fender is 90% loose it should come out
10. Remove all tail lights
11. There are 2 bolts that you have to remove from the rear fender panel and a metal bracket by reaching inside the two outermost tail light openings.
12. There are nuts that need to be removed from the inside of the wheel well from the same bracket the screws are attached to from above step. There are 2 nuts and a nut and a bolt holding the fender and the rear clip together on each side.
13. Remove 2 screws above exhaust tips to release rear valance as wheel as the square drive screws behind the plate. I just used a skinny flat blade screw drive for this.
14. You will want to disconnect all lights at this point. Reverse, tail lights, third brake and license plate light as well as side markers.
15. Pull lower part of rear valance up and the bottom will come loose. Then you will have to lift the rest above the lip where it screws inside the truck.
16. their is now 2 push in clips that need to be removed from the metal strips that line up all the parts in order to remove the quarter panels
17. Now open the door. Lift from the bottom in the door opening and watch the part that goes under the roof bar. Should lift right off
18. Undo the 3 screws holding the gas door in place. On the other side and set aside. That is the only difference on driver’s side.
End Result
Last edited by burtonbl103; Jan 6, 2007 at 11:07 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area Ca.
I want to thank you for posting this and your thread on your wide body conversion. It's amazing. Its going to help me a lot as I get ready to get the needed parts and start my project this spring. 
Thank you for helping us out.
Thank you for helping us out.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 73
From: palm harbor Florida
wide body
Like I said before. Bill has done a fantastic job in helping out the other forum members with their projects.
Once again, there are many people on the forum who give alot of their time to others by taking that extra step.
Without mentioning all of them, we forum members appreciate you all!
Chucky7
Once again, there are many people on the forum who give alot of their time to others by taking that extra step.
Without mentioning all of them, we forum members appreciate you all!
Chucky7
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 38,772
Likes: 621
From: Boston MA
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08,'12-'13
Like I said before. Bill has done a fantastic job in helping out the other forum members with their projects.
Once again, there are many people on the forum who give alot of their time to others by taking that extra step.
Without mentioning all of them, we forum members appreciate you all!
Chucky7
Once again, there are many people on the forum who give alot of their time to others by taking that extra step.
Without mentioning all of them, we forum members appreciate you all!
Chucky7
Thats what makes the forum great
You can learn so much from so manny people here!
Just glad to contribute and help anyone here
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 38,772
Likes: 621
From: Boston MA
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08,'12-'13
Member: Jr Geezer's Club
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Excellent job Bill! I wished you were about a month in front of me and my WB project. (Well make that 2 months with my Fred Beans fiasco)... either way I could have really benefited from your detailed and informative posts!
Rock on dude!!!
How did your paint come out?
Bone
Rock on dude!!!
How did your paint come out?
Bone
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 38,772
Likes: 621
From: Boston MA
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08,'12-'13
We are finishing the clear today
and then reassembling the panels temporaly , then 3 days of colorsanding the entire car.
Then it will take me a week to put it all back together.
I have a ton of pics of the paint process.
I will upload them later
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: San bernardino ca
Burton i asked for this last week and you came thru with this awesome write-up. thanks for the great step by step write up. this will give alot of people the knowledge they need before proceeding themselfs. if your ever in the Inland Empire of so cal. let me know i owe you a few