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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:10 AM
  #41  
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I have three Craftsmen torque wrenches (1/2, 3/8, and a short 3/8). They are OK, but DO NOT HAVE A LIFETIME warranty. You can read the warranty info right on the packaging - 90 days. I've had two fail. Its the ratchet mechanism that breaks. Repairable, but costs and takes time.

Got tired of problems with Craftsmen and purchased a Snap-on for about $300. Great tool. Use it for many things, but most often for lug-nuts before and during track days.

Cheers - Jim
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Frans96ss
I did, as well as the 1/2-inch and 1/4-inch versions. I used to have a couple of Craftsman torque wrenches, but got tired of fixing them. The Snap-on electronic torque wrenches have a flex-head that makes torquing lug nuts a breeze. No extension is needed with a deep socket.

You will need a 1/2-inch torque wrench for the lug nuts. While the 3/8-inch pictured goes to 100 foot/lbs that is the upper limit of the wrench, and torque wrenches are less accurate at the upper and lower 10% of their range. Also, the 1/2-inch torque wrench is longer and will be easier to use at the 100 foot/lbs level.

On the negative side, the Snap-on electronic torque wrenches (at least the ones I have) eat batteries. I often have to replace the batteries when I grab them from the drawer. That might not be an issue if I used them more often -- like a professional would.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:36 AM
  #43  
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OK... I have a 1/2" SK clicker type. One poster said to store UNLOADED while another said to store 20% LOADED? Anyone know for sure the best way to store one of these wrenches?
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Cjunkie
This one is my favorite..."I've had this torque wrench for 28yrs", please dont touch anything of mine.
I also said I calibrate it every couple years, or at least check the calibration. What do you have and when was the last time you checked it? Any torque wrench is good if enough for our cars if it's the proper range, accuracy, and checked to be readining in tolerance.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:00 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by cthusker
OK... I have a 1/2" SK clicker type. One poster said to store UNLOADED while another said to store 20% LOADED? Anyone know for sure the best way to store one of these wrenches?
All manufacturers and calibration procedures say to store clickers at their lowest setting. This is around 10% of the max reading on most wrenches. This takes most of the pressure off the spring while keeping all the parts in place.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:22 AM
  #46  
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These responses crack me up. All these 70+ thousand dollar cars and when ever anyone asks for advice on purchasing something for it, there is always a majority of answers that are how and where you can get the cheepest one.

A torque wrench for example, Why would you buy a cheep one? Of all the tools you could cut corners on Why this one? The beam type with the pointer total junk, might as well just guess!!

How many of you would think twice about it if you took your car in for repair and you saw the mechanic using one of those on your car???

I guess it is JUST a chevy Not a Ferrari!!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:37 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by lorenzo
How many of you would think twice about it if you took your car in for repair and you saw the mechanic using one of those on your car???
What gets me is how many places don't torque lug nuts with a torque wrench at all. Many don't know how to use them prperly either.

I ask two questions at a tire shop, do you have a road force balancer and do your guys have torque wrenches AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by dave pawlowski
I have a Sears 1/2" drive that is a POS. The locking ring broke and it cost more to repair than it is worth. Snap-On is the premier wrench and worth every penney. Do you see many pro mechanics using Sears?
If you had a Craftsman wrench, they will replace it at no charge. All their tools a guaranteed for life.

I have Craftsman 1/2" Digital 25-250 ft/lb and 3/8" digital 5-80 ft/lb.

Last edited by sscamaro; Sep 15, 2008 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by EvanD
I also said I calibrate it every couple years, or at least check the calibration. What do you have and when was the last time you checked it? Any torque wrench is good if enough for our cars if it's the proper range, accuracy, and checked to be readining in tolerance.
I bought this one about 6 months ago. It's certainly not the least expensive but not the most either. Thought SK was a decent compromise. Anyway I'll take your advice and keep partially loaded... I'll have it checked in year or so assuming to don't drop it before then.. thanks for the tip because I had no idea keeping it set for say 100 ft lbs was not good for it........
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #50  
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I found the Precision Instrument part #C2FR100F, which is the 3/8ths drive, flex-ratchet at tooldiscounter.com for $124 including shipping. A great deal from a manufacturer that has been making torques wrenches in the USA since 1938. It comes with certification papers and the manufacturer stands behind the product. Repairs are made by them.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #51  
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Default Exactly wrong

Originally Posted by lorenzo
A torque wrench for example, Why would you buy a cheep one? Of all the tools you could cut corners on Why this one? The beam type with the pointer total junk, might as well just guess!!
"Total junk?" Beam types are extremely accurate. Potentially way more accurate than clickers. The downside to beams is that they're sometimes inconvenient to use.
Originally Posted by lorenzo
How many of you would think twice about it if you took your car in for repair and you saw the mechanic using one of those on your car???
I would think I was dealing with somebody who probably knew how how to measure torque properly, and who wasn't wowed by bells and whistles.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:49 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by dave pawlowski
I have a Sears 1/2" drive that is a POS. The locking ring broke and it cost more to repair than it is worth. Snap-On is the premier wrench and worth every penney. Do you see many pro mechanics using Sears?
Sears torque wrenches are junk.

Most consumer grade torque wrenches are junk.

S&K makes some decent torque wrenches; Snap-On makes better ones.

S&K on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/SK-8-Inch-Micr.../dp/B00061SNHK

Snap On Torque Wrenches:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catal...e=snapon-store
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by torquetube
"Total junk?" Beam types are extremely accurate. Potentially way more accurate than clickers.
That statement has no basis in fact.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by harddrivin1le
That statement has no basis in fact.
Really?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_..._between_types

Click type torque wrenches are precise when properly calibrated—however the more complex mechanism can result in them losing calibration far quicker than the beam type, where there is little to malfunction.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:58 PM
  #55  
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Careful now, harddrivin1le does not like to be argued with...
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by sscamaro
If you had a Craftsman wrench, they will replace it at no charge. All their tools a guaranteed for life.

I have Craftsman 1/2" Digital 25-250 ft/lb and 3/8" digital 5-80 ft/lb.
Take a look at Craftsman torque wrenches on-line or in the store - they are all warrantied for only 90 days, NOT LIFETIME. I've tried to take two back with no luck.

From the Sears Craftsman tool page (bold and red added)(http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches)

-------------------------------------

Overview Specs Options Reviews(16) Q&A(--)
1/2 in. square drive Wrench with digital readout. Our easiest to set and most accurate. Measures 25 to 250 ft. lb. in 2 ft. lb. increments.

Superior internal mechanisms reduce friction and provide accurate and consistent measurements. Readout gives precise torque settings in both English and metric units. Accurate to ?3 percent on clockwise or right-handed reading greater than or equal to 20 percent of capacity. Handle designed for easy setting. Internal mechanisms reduce friction and provide accurate, consistent measurements.

Product Overview:
Torque Wrench Type: Torque wrench
Power Option: No power
Item Weight: 2.8 lbs.
General Warranty: 90 days
Wrench:
Specialty Wrench Type: Torque
Torque Drive Size: 1/2 in.
Torque Increments: 2.0 ft. lbs.
Torque Measure: 25 to 250 ft. lbs.

-------------------------------------

Cheers - Jim
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:19 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by harddrivin1le
Originally Posted by torquetube
"Total junk?" Beam types are extremely accurate. Potentially way more accurate than clickers.
That statement has no basis in fact.
A beam type torque wrench takes a direct reading from a torsion bar. It should be intuitively obvious that it will be difficult to better the accuracy of such an instrument with another spring-tension-based design that uses an indirect readout. With additional indirection, you get additional sources of error.

This is certainly the case with all "clickers" that feature a mechanism that relaxes the torque applied to the head once the preset value is reached.

Dial-type torque wrenches are essentially beams sealed in a case with a jeweled dial-indicator for a readout -- basically a visual amplifier for the beam pointer. And not coincidentally, they are the most accurate torque wrenches you can buy. 1% accuracy is easy to find, 2% is average. Almost all clickers are 4% - 6%.

The reason not to use a beam (or dial) type is convenience, not accuracy.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
...
Whoa there, careful with all those facts!

(Seriously, nice post!)
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 11:16 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by torquetube
A beam type torque wrench takes a direct reading from a torsion bar. It should be intuitively obvious that it will be difficult to better the accuracy of such an instrument with another spring-tension-based design that uses an indirect readout. With additional indirection, you get additional sources of error.

This is certainly the case with all "clickers" that feature a mechanism that relaxes the torque applied to the head once the preset value is reached.

Dial-type torque wrenches are essentially beams sealed in a case with a jeweled dial-indicator for a readout -- basically a visual amplifier for the beam pointer. And not coincidentally, they are the most accurate torque wrenches you can buy. 1% accuracy is easy to find, 2% is average. Almost all clickers are 4% - 6%.

The reason not to use a beam (or dial) type is convenience, not accuracy.

good post.

The problem with torque wrenchs is usually they get damaged or treated in an improper way that causes incorrect torque to be applied. I've seen too many people that go another 1/4 turn after the click or will reapply the force until it clicks again. Torque accuracy is very loose and the best way to measure how much something should be tightened is to measure stud or bolt stretch.

Wrenches should be check periodically, for some people this is every month, for others every couple years. Your results may vary.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 04:52 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by leres
Really?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_..._between_types

"The scale on a beam type wrench is prone to parallax error, as a result of the large distance between indicator arm and scale (On some older designs). There is also the issue of increased user error with the beam type—the torque has to be read at every use and the operator must use caution to apply loads only at the floating handle's pivot point."



ALL things considered, preset "breakaway" torque wrenches provide the highest degree of confidence.
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