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I finally rec'd mine yesterday. Sorry no pics yet, but I'm sure you all have seen them / know what they are, they're even talked about on this forum. You know, it sets in the middle of the jack, both ends extend out to a pre determined length so you can lift the entire a$$ end or front end.
Anyway, what I didn't know is it only fits a certain jack model and mine ain't it.
So what did all of you do to get this to secure safely to the jack??? I may have to get a friend fabricate or replicate the center piece of the jack and either weld or bolt it the the adapter.
I may have to get a friend fabricate or replicate the center piece of the jack and either weld or bolt it the the adapter.
What say y'all?? Thanks for any suggestions.
That's about it. Depending on the brand/model of jack, some have had to grind down the pin of the cross beam adapter or somehow enlarge the receiver hole in the jack.
I finally rec'd mine yesterday. Sorry no pics yet, but I'm sure you all have seen them / know what they are, they're even talked about on this forum. You know, it sets in the middle of the jack, both ends extend out to a pre determined length so you can lift the entire a$$ end or front end.
Anyway, what I didn't know is it only fits a certain jack model and mine ain't it.
So what did all of you do to get this to secure safely to the jack??? I may have to get a friend fabricate or replicate the center piece of the jack and either weld or bolt it the the adapter.
What say y'all?? Thanks for any suggestions.
This is your lucky day! I just finished with mine and it turned out great. Cost me thirty bucks to have them remove the pin and turn it down to the exact dimensions of my floor jack lift pad pin and then weld it back in. I also had the lift arms shortened as it was impossible to get it short enough to have the adjustable lift pads center on the preferred lift points. I can put up photos tomorrow if you'd like.
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Dec 30, 2010 at 11:44 PM.
I visited a local steel shop - Online metals located in Seattle, and ordered a pair of 4X2X3/16X26 in. rectangular tube. I cut some 1/4" rubber for pads, marked a centerline on the tube and centered it on the jack. I first tried it on the rear without problems, plenty long enough to fit a pair of 3ton rectangular based jack stands and slid the jack out when complete. I had to drive the front of the car onto some home-made ramps made from 2X8 wood to get it high enough to fit the jack under to the carriage/suspension assembly just behind the oil pan. With the 26" length, the jack stands posed no problem with floor jack removal. The tube is heavy, but rigid enough for the job.
Anybody have pics of the finished unit? I have the same problem, had my jacking adapter shortened, now I need a way to secure it to my Harbor Freight Race Jack. I was hoping to be able to remove the adapter when I need to use my pucks to just lift a side…
Anybody have pics of the finished unit? I have the same problem, had my jacking adapter shortened, now I need a way to secure it to my Harbor Freight Race Jack. I was hoping to be able to remove the adapter when I need to use my pucks to just lift a side…
Thx you
I'll put up pictures tomorrow of the changes I made.
I made my own using a 1.5 X 3 inch by 22 inch long piece of rectangular tubing. Then I welded in a length of tubing in the center that fits into the saddle of my Omega low profile jack. I am out of town so I cannot post pics right now, but can when I get home next week in anyone is interested.
I made up extensions using 1 1/2" square tubing. I welded 2 pieces together then welded a 4"x4" piece of 1/4" plate steel on each end and glued pieces of rubber on top of the plates. On the bottom in the center I welded on a strip of plate steel that would fit into the saddle of my jack. I made 2 of these extensions since the front and back jacking points require different lengths.
I finally rec'd mine yesterday. Sorry no pics yet, but I'm sure you all have seen them / know what they are, they're even talked about on this forum. You know, it sets in the middle of the jack, both ends extend out to a pre determined length so you can lift the entire a$$ end or front end.
Anyway, what I didn't know is it only fits a certain jack model and mine ain't it. So what did all of you do to get this to secure safely to the jack??? I may have to get a friend fabricate or replicate the center piece of the jack and either weld or bolt it the the adapter.
What say y'all?? Thanks for any suggestions.
That's exactly what I did per an old DIY post here on the forum. I modified the 'center' of my Craftsman 2-ton aluminum floor jack so that the pin of the adaptor beam would seat fully into the jack. I didn't want to grind-down the center pins on the adaptor beams. It wasn't hard to do it doesn't adversely affect the utility of the floor jack. I still have the directions. If you're interested PM me your email address and I'll send them to you.
Thanks Wayne O Iwill. One thing though, my adapter beam doesn't have a "pin", just a threaded hole and a bolt. But if could see a pic of yours
then I can get a better idea of what to do.
Okay, here are photo, as promised, of my cross beam adapter that I got sometime ago from Northern Tools. I took it to a machine local machine shop and the were able to remove the centering pin by grinding down the single weld that was on the the top reinforcement plate and then pressing the pin out. There was some bleed through of the weld, otherwise the pin would have just fallen out as the hole was a little over sized. They then put it on a lathe, turned it down to match the floor jack lift plate pin and welded it back in. I also had the body of the beam adapter shortened by 3" on each end and the adjustable arms shortened by 2 3/4". I did this because the front preferred lift points are only 22" (I think) apart and I just could not get the lift pads of the beam adapter close enough together to get them centered on the lift points. The reason a chose to shorten everything was so I could use the adjustability of the lift pads for both front and rear. I have the Race Ramp 12" blocks and I can now get the front of the car high enough to use those 12" pieces with the tires still on the car, really gives me a lot more room under the car.
EDIT: The fourth picture down is of the pin on the bottom of the floor jack lift pad.
BJK
Last edited by 07MontRedcp; Dec 31, 2010 at 12:43 PM.
My cross beam adapter fits my jack and I am hoping to drive up on the 67 inch race ramps and them jack the back up with cross beam - hoping there is enough clearence to get jack and beam under rear when front is on the ramps ??
Bandit
Got my adapter 4400 lb capacity from a company called Dursban - jack company in NY - the center pin was longer than the ones from Summitt and high capacity of 4400 lbs.
I modified both of my floor jacks and crossbeams to work together. It didn't require any special tools, just a hacksaw, drill, file and tap. One crossbeam bolts onto the jack and the other has a pin that sits into a hole in the saddle.
I did get some 'C' channel welded to the bottom of the crossbeams so once I get the car up my jack stands fit into the channel and nothing can slip.
Anybody know where we can pick up extra rubber floor jack pads? I would like to use them on top of the beam and where the jack stands are placed.
Thanks,
Mike
I don't think you really have cut the center section dn or cut the extensions as in another thread the member merely put the rubber pads on the center section to lift the front end (used the same rubber pads that came with the cross beam). I guess since I have a few extra hockey pucks they should work as well with a little liquid nails glue the to the center section or just rest them on the adapter cross beam - SEE
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