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I noticed your doors/trunk are opened...is opening the hood/doors/trunk when raising on a lift and or raising with a floor jack recommended? Or is that just extra precaution to avoid potential problems?(sorry for hijack)
I have a regular floor jack that I already had before I got my C6.
Corvettemods sells a puck that replaces the cradle on any floor jack.The top of the puck fits into the slot in the frame
Bert
Roll Tide!
I've read that the C6 frame is stiff enough so you don't have to open the doors, etc...but I like to take every precaution. It's not much trouble for the extra insurance.
Last edited by SSTEVEGS; Dec 26, 2011 at 08:43 PM.
The frame's side rails, where the rocker panel cutouts are, is not the recommended jacking site according to the owner's manual. GM says to lift the car by placing the jack under the aluminum crossmember at the ends where the lower A-arms are attached. Use a block of wood to distribute the load over several of the ribs. Do not lift the car in the center of the aluminum crossmember. You can lift the entire front, or rear, by using a crossbeam adapter that allows you to place the jack in the center of the adapter with the ends of the adapter under the ribbed ends of the aluminum crossmember. I made my crossbeam adapter from a piece of 2x6 long enough to span the distance, with 1/4" plywood pads("5.5x5.5") screwed on top of the 2X6 at the ends.
A ton of vendors sell them. Look on the forum or even ebay, or just make a run to Academy sporting goods and buy a few standard hockey pucks. Then put a 3/4 eye bolt through each one.
or just use a small piece of 2X4 like the dealers use........
anybody use anything from sears? I have a gift card so I figured I would use it to buy a jack. I would only be using the jack to remove my tires for cleaning. No oil changes or going under the car so don't think I need stands.
Thanks
anybody use anything from sears? I have a gift card so I figured I would use it to buy a jack. I would only be using the jack to remove my tires for cleaning. No oil changes or going under the car so don't think I need stands.
Thanks
You need jack stands (or some equivalent) in any event and especially so if you're buying a cheap Chinese jack from Sears. Don't get in the habit of not using them.
The jack may never let go suddenly, but it's not uncommon for them to leak down pretty quickly.
A pair of jack stands can be had for less than a fill-up.
You need jack stands (or some equivalent) in any event and especially so if you're buying a cheap Chinese jack from Sears. Don't get in the habit of not using them.
The jack may never let go suddenly, but it's not uncommon for them to leak down pretty quickly.
A pair of jack stands can be had for less than a fill-up.
Good call! I'll spend the g/c on the stands from Sears and buy a quality American made jack from elsewhere.
I'll be buying one from Harbor Freight however I can't decide if I should just buy the 2 ton steel low profile one or the 2 ton low profile racing one. Not sure I need the lightweight and the 2 tone low profile steel one seemed to get better reviews....
I'd only be jacking the car to change tires or maybe something else light duty. I've got 6 jack stands. When I put my cars up I don't play..I make sure it ain't going any where!!!
I'll be buying one from Harbor Freight however I can't decide if I should just buy the 2 ton steel low profile one or the 2 ton low profile racing one. Not sure I need the lightweight and the 2 tone low profile steel one seemed to get better reviews....
I'd only be jacking the car to change tires or maybe something else light duty. I've got 6 jack stands. When I put my cars up I don't play..I make sure it ain't going any where!!!
I bought mine at Harbour Freight for 69.99 on sale a few years ago. It works great for my needs. I use it on all my cars, including my Tahoe. 2 ton capacity, 2.75" minimum to 19.5" maximum jacking heights. Item number 67022.
I was installing new OEM splash guards and removing the old aftermarket guards...
Yes, I have the same one for the same price and really like it. It's not rapid pump but who needs that in the man-cave garage!!
The frame's side rails, where the rocker panel cutouts are, is not the recommended jacking site according to the owner's manual. GM says to lift the car by placing the jack under the aluminum crossmember at the ends where the lower A-arms are attached. Use a block of wood to distribute the load over several of the ribs. Do not lift the car in the center of the aluminum crossmember. You can lift the entire front, or rear, by using a crossbeam adapter that allows you to place the jack in the center of the adapter with the ends of the adapter under the ribbed ends of the aluminum crossmember. I made my crossbeam adapter from a piece of 2x6 long enough to span the distance, with 1/4" plywood pads("5.5x5.5") screwed on top of the 2X6 at the ends.
So the frame side rails whers the pucks go are for raising the car with a lift only not a floor jack with a puck?
And the lift points referenced in the owners manual and in your post above, that GM recommends are for use with a floor jack (using block of wood or crossbeam adapter) or you could also use a lift under there if you could position it correctly that far under the car?
Not trying to start a argument, just trying to learnAnd yes I read the owners manual the first day I got home with the car from front to back and have referenced it numerous times since thenAnd have also watched the DVD.
Perhaps GM does not recommend using a jack (with a puck of course) at the frame rails (shipping slots?) because of the likelihood of the jack slipping off of the puck?
I'll be buying one from Harbor Freight however I can't decide if I should just buy the 2 ton steel low profile one or the 2 ton low profile racing one. Not sure I need the lightweight and the 2 tone low profile steel one seemed to get better reviews....
I'd only be jacking the car to change tires or maybe something else light duty. I've got 6 jack stands. When I put my cars up I don't play..I make sure it ain't going any where!!!
Besides I hope to have a lift in about a year....
Lightweight is good when you get a lift. You will be lifting it up there to raise the tires off the ramps.
Works great with hockey pucks for jacking the sides of a C6. But it's not long enough to reach the center jacking point from the front... not sure it's heavy-duty enough to easily support that. Anyway, I only use it for oil changes and Z51 lubing, so not a problem for me.
Last edited by CO Lightfoot; Dec 29, 2011 at 03:54 AM.
I'm new here and a little confused. I too read the manual, and all the posts about having jacking pucks. I have purchased the jacking pucks and it's my understanding that I should use the side frame points to jack the car up?? So If I want to take off a wheel to clean or access behind the fender lining panels, I should use the under chassis points shown in the manual??
Are the jacking pucks ONLY for use by a shop lift??
Thanks - signed, slightly confused...
Originally Posted by Tide Will Roll!
Thanks for the info
So the frame side rails whers the pucks go are for raising the car with a lift only not a floor jack with a puck?
And the lift points referenced in the owners manual and in your post above, that GM recommends are for use with a floor jack (using block of wood or crossbeam adapter) or you could also use a lift under there if you could position it correctly that far under the car?
Not trying to start a argument, just trying to learnAnd yes I read the owners manual the first day I got home with the car from front to back and have referenced it numerous times since thenAnd have also watched the DVD.
Perhaps GM does not recommend using a jack (with a puck of course) at the frame rails (shipping slots?) because of the likelihood of the jack slipping off of the puck?