I Removed the fuse to the dual mode exhaust, will that effect the sound quality

 

Possibly------ are your tips polished?

 

Made a 100% positive difference in my Vette's audio system. Totally happy with the results, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

Nah, let everyone read your nugget of wisdom:

"TOOL

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You are about as worthless as worthless gets. I don't have to explain Jack to your stupid ***. I will pay for you to fly to me and say the **** to my face. LOL And while your here I'll let you listen to my Home theater and cars. And show you what sounds good. "

So in layman's terms, you have no clue about the subject nor the intelligence to learn anything either, LOL...

 

If you want to stay that happy panda, you may want to save your advice for someone else. Here is an idea for you and the other clowns: offer a single at least semi intelligent counterpoint to what I said. And no, that your system sounds great to you will not do, you gotta know why you do what you and after seeing your install, I am certain you do not.

 

The ignorance of these audio enthusiasts postihg here just cracks me up. There are two elements that GM did to at least try to salvage the audio system in corvette: ten inch door woofers and center channel speaker.

Seeing how these are the very first things that disappear to supposedly UPGRADE the audio system is a dead giveaway absolutely nobody has a clue around here what they do and why. Now, here is an idea, before spending money and ask others for truly worthless advice, read up a bit on the subject and follow some installs that make use of the science that has always been behind audio field, this includes the function of center channel. While you are at it, read up on panned mono and what a listening "sweet spot" is. I gotta say, chances of anyone understanding what they do around here are none.

 

As soon as you say something intelligent, I'll offer a counterpoint. Everyone here sees what an *** you are, and any opinions you give, potentially beneficial or not, fall on deaf ears because of it. Do everyone a favor and get over yourself and your "knowledge" on the subject. No one wants to hear your negative bs any more.

 

Don't you find it rather odd that out of all of those involved in this thread not a single one agrees with you and yet you insist your the only one who understands and everyone else is wrong. With all your talk about wasting money and believing advertising hype I think it boils down to your to cheap to spend money to improve something that really doesnt matter to you anyway.

 

Still waiting for the correction to what I stated previously. Seeing none is coming, no, I do not find anyone not having a clue odd. I am not cheap, I am against WASTING money pointlessly.

 

I do not offer opinions, I state FACTS that are based on science and my personal 30 years of dealing with this subject and discussions with others smarter than me, must be another one above your head. The truth is you have absolutely no clue why you did with your own install and have no ability to even understand what I stated, if you did, you would not be doing what you did.

 

Don't know what correction your talking about and I'd still like to see you get either pentavolvo or markcz to agree with anything you say. They are just two of the real audio experts on here.

 

Here's what you are missing Pete, I agree with you because I've built the stereo you are describing. Still you have made me want to hate you.


You can improve the experience of your stereo several orders of magnitude just by placing the existing speakers optimally. You can improve the experience of your stereo incrementally by replacing your speakers with higher quality drivers.

8" Bose drivers vs smaller drivers. I don't know much about the Bose drivers themselves, however I do know poor quality 8" drivers can be out done pretty easily by smaller drivers (especially 3way component drivers/not coaxial).

I'm a firm believer in speaker specialization. You can't tell me an 8" paper is going to do a better job reproducing highs than 1" titanium, any more than a tweeter than generate the sounds of a kick drum.

Most people believe sound quality improvement is the bass thump and some will enjoy a crisp high hat. Very few will enjoy an expansive stage or vocal clarity. So answer the question that was asked: will it sound better (bass)? Maybe.

With bass, It's all about air movement and cone flex. Stiffer cones with long throws can provide before defined sound than weak cones with short throws. So pick the largest size that'll fit and find a speaker with a long throw and high sensitivity.

 

C6 comes stock with 10 inch woofers in doors, C5 came with 8 inch. Short throw woofer with larger diameter cone will be always superior to smaller diameter woofer with longer throw, there is an issue of linearity and transient response that affects long throw woofers.

With that said, the higher the frequency reproduced, the less energy will be required to produce the sound and thus smaller driver will be needed. Ironically enough, paper cone is considered one of the best around and is present in many very expensive speakers. Kevlar reinforced paper can be found in some of the best subwoofers out there. OEM use paper cone drivers because they are cheap and have very high sensitivity allowing them to use low power amplifiers with a caviot of cheap suspension limiting their output abilities. None of this has anything to do with why I recommend not messing with the stock system. Also, you can stuff a small tweeter in the door and generate more highs due to smaller diameter driver better off axis dispersion but the highs will be generated at the knee level and you will hear them coming from there due to height cues at higher freqs. When you combine this with elimination of the center channel instead of improving it, you end up with worse sound than OEM, this is a fact.

The speakers are aimed at each other creating panned mono btw, not stereo, this is why the center channel is there, to reduce the off center listening position and to raise the stage. Absolutely nobody around here has a clue what they are doing.

Also, in corvette, the woofer does not play the highs, the small coaxials do, thus, the upper end appears to be week due to off axis rolloff that takes place about 10k. The real fix would be to put tweeters in the pillars or dash and lo pass the door coaxials limiting them to midrange only. The center channels should be maintained even then. This is not magic or art, simple physics and acoustics instead.

 

Correction like in proving what I stated was incorrect. LOL at the validation from the "experts". I do not see them disagree with what I said either and if they do, maybe we can have some more fun then...

 

NPP with the fuse pulled is all the music I need when cruising.

 

Bi-Polar or early stages of alzheimers...that's my new guess.

 

 

I'm happy that you have embraced being a lonely man. I recognIze it well. I used to have the same problem. Burning it off doesn't help however, only finding meaning in your life. Find something worthwhile that you are good at which other people recognize you for being good at it.

Sound stage does not equal sound quality. It is similar to sound experience. Please split the two concepts. What they are interested in is enhanced enjoyment, not proper positioning of the sound stage.

Something you have to understand is what you read about in magazines is not neccisarily the same as what people naturally want.

They also do NOT want faithful reproduction of sound (is flat eq). They want the reverse bell curve. So don't try to flatten it.

Your ears are located between the doors, so it is still stereo. However without a time delay circuit or improved placement the audio from your side speakers will reach your ear sooner. Most people won't recognize the difference.

The number one thing new speakers will do is change the way the eq curve. People will recognize it as different and probably better. Bose company is known for putting most of their money into marketing, so I would expect any new speakers would sounds more pleasing.


I want to flip the table on you. Please describe the car or cars in which you have modified your stereo. What have you done, placement and brand. And photos.

The one thing I've learned as an lead engineer is things that work in paper or on the bench almost always fail when deployed in the real world.

In regards to your last paragraph. I have my 1" MB Quart Qs mounted in my a pillar. It does raise the soundstage but at the cost of being disparate from the 3" and 6" drivers I have in the door. The result is the soundstage moving when highs are not being used. The optimum placement is on the floor as far back as you can. This way the sound from the right & left reaches your ear at the same time. The problem of course is your wet/dirty shoes will eventually destroy the cones and the simple fact that nothing fits down there.

 

The only part of what you stated that IS incorrect is that replacing factory speakers with better one's and adding more power with aftermarket amps will degrade the sound quality. There are enough people in this thread saying that is absurd and the only other way to prove it would be to have a group of people that know nothing about car audio sit in a car with upgraded speakers and more power, listen to a sample and then sit in the same model car with factory speakers and amp and listen to the same sample and let them vote on it. Obviously that can't happen on a forum so readers here will have to decide weather they want to (A) agree with you or (B) agree with the hundreds of others on here who have upgraded their speakers and amp power with excellent results. Why don't you start a poll. Maybe we can "have some more fun then" too.

 

Omg!

I can't believe I got suckered in by a troll! Hahah.


I'm out, I got better things to do... I'm buying another corvette!