I don't think GM would want to be replacing ZR1 motors on THEIR dime too often.

I figure, as long as the oil meet Dexos1 or GM4718M, it's good enough to keep the GM warranty and it's good enough to keep running it. So happens, Mobil 1 5w30 meets that, as well as a gazillion other oils.

So..avoiding Mobil 1? Nah.

 

I think the Euro spec. also has something to do with the availability of 0W-40 vs 5W-30, in Europe. The former appears to be widely available while the latter is not.
One of the oil-related discussion threads I was thinking of (and referred to previously) mentioned this--the poster was a European Corvette owner.

 

Another tech article released by Joe Gibb today.

http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/alb...tech_sheet.pdf

 

What's the VOA on the LS3 oil?

 

Anthony - great info for us all thanks. I have been studding oils and trying to decide what to run - currently I have a engine being built. Ls3 418 with forged internals, dsc1 blower, Dp fuel system, rpm complete driveline ect.

The builder is telling me 20-50 the chart shows some conventional oil and also synthetic. The car is street only but driven hard - what's the best bet on this application ?.

 

ttt??

 

so, since the thread on the ZR1 didn't get much response I'll ask again here:

what is, in ppm content, the correct amount we should have? if 600-900 not good enough, then is 1200 ok?

It's a little aggravating when shops just promote xyz oil but yet no one has a number to through around. Just feel like the shops are pushing oil brands around...

 

Let's look a bit more in depth on why these 'micro brew' oils are so much better than say a normal Mobile 1.

Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not.

Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based.

Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based

Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars.


Further reading on Esters
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272
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I read through the link to "bob the oil guy" yesterday and I know understand why you choose to use Redline oil.

BJK

 

It is more than just an additive package.

Also you have to remember we are stating this for guys that track the cars, modify the car.....drive them to the limit. For those that take the car back and forth to work, or just to car shows probably will never have an issue.

Just like weight of oil, depends on what you are going to do with the car.