This afternoon, after taking the wife to lunch, I pulled in to get gas and shut the car off. Before exiting, I cycled through the off/accessory position on the start button a couple of times, checking something on the radio. I exited the car and popped the gas door, and accidentally the rear hatch as well. While I fueled the car, I pressed down on the hatch and the electric latch reeled it closed. I also observed I hadn't full latched the drivers side door, but it didn't matter as I would depart as soon as the tank was filled.

When I finished fueling, the partially-latched drivers side door would not open. My wife pulled her emergency release, and I asked her to pull mine. When I got back into the car, it started normally, but there were no dash lights, instruments, or radio. I was only 3 miles from home, so I eased the car home for a better place to troubleshoot. On the drive home, I noticed headlights were on, rear view mirror had power, but instruments were out, and power windows had not raised fully. locks and door latches were out as well. Fortunately, the garage door opener opened the garage on arrival, and I pulled in.

Once in the garage, the car would not restart. Dash, radio, and doors are still dead as well. I poked around on the web and something suggested disconnecting the battery for a hard reset, so I pulled the ground wire at the battery. While doing that, I tested the battery. It is new and tested good, at 800cca.

With the battery reconnected several minutes later. I have a few more clues but no more progress. The green start button will light, and pressing it gets several clicks, but the engine will not start. Once it is in the start mode, it will not return to off or accessory.

I've also been out to the car with the second key fob, with no more success there. I have not tried plugging the fob into the glovebox, because I get a green illuminated start button, it didn't seem necessary.

I'm a pretty handy home mechanic, but I confess I don't know where to start here. Is there a main relay, or something I should check or reset?

Thanks
Woody (Stranded in my own garage)

 

That sucks. Start with the easy potential cures, one of which is the blue connector on the fuse block in the passenger footwell. It can become loose, and if it does it causes a rash of electrical problems, not unlike what you are experiencing. That's all I can suggest.

 

Much appreciated! I'll try it asap and see what results.

 

Thanks v26278. As you say, best to check the easy stuff first. I have pulled and re-seated both large blue connectors behind the passenger side footwell. Nothing apparent upon examination, pins were all clean and straight, but of course that is proof of nothing.

Same result, the start button will light and switch into start mode, but the engine never starts. Once 'on', even though it isn't actually running, it can't be turned off. I don't know can't-switch-off behavior is a clue or just a symptom.

To get everything to reset, it is necessary to disconnect the battery briefly.

The search continues...

 

Your problems are consistent with a battery problem. Make sure it has been tested with a load tester. That's the only way to check a battery. Even new batteries can be bad. Most auto parts stores will do with no charge. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Thanks Vet4les. I tested with a cheapie load tester, it showed 12.4 volts at rest, and supposedly an ability for load comparable to an 800 CCA battery.

But I have seen it before and agree, electronics behave in weird ways when the battery isn't 100%. I have a 100A jump start booster I can try, and I can charge the battery over night. Both are worth a try.

 

12.5+ is normal.

 

You don't mention age or mileage of car. It could also be a loose ground (or corroded, sometimes not visible until taken off and cleaned) somewhere and it is not unusual for either at batt. terminal, or starter. Presume both hex/conical batt. nuts are preserved and used? I'd also put the fob in the glove box slot to see what happens--how old are the fob batts.? At this time, it's a remote chance but the gas pedal sensors (two) could be a potential source of issues. But that one usually comes on suddenly and with no warning and causes reduced engine power, and several check engine lites.

 

Thanks AORoads, this is not unlike bad ground problems I have seen on other cars. The car is a 2012 with 9200 miles. I have had the battery terminal connectors off and they are clean and tight (and appear all original). I have not been under the car to check for any connections at the starter.

I charged the battery last night. It is at 12.6v and I'm now satisfied neither it or the connections at the battery are at fault.

When the battery is reconnected, I get the red light on the start switch. I can get in the car and close the door and get the green-to-start light. When I press the start button, I can hear various relays click, but no cranking or gauges. Doors, radio and other stuff still dead, and the car will not switch back to accessory/off mode without disconnecting the battery.

Last thing, I tried swapping mini-relays 40 & 44 under the hood. Those were labeled 'Rear Defog' and 'Powertrain Ign 1'. Still no luck.

--Woody

 

After examining both fuse boxes and grounds, I still had no power to the dash, windows, radio, start circuit, etc. On a whim, I pulled the plug for the valentine1 radar detector, connected to the ODB2 port with a dashtronix/HUD integration box. Instantly all non-functional items returned to duty.

Lesson I should have known: When troubleshooting, disconnect aftermarket gizmos, especially from the ODB2 port.

Subsequently reconnecting the dashtronix box rendered everything non-functional again. I have not yet examined the wiring from the box to the detector to see if there is a problem there, but for now I am sans radar detector (and glad to be mobile again).

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

Woody

 

Lots of good info above...the only thing that I can add is that, for future reference, the green start button light is nothing more than a trim light. It does not signify that the button is active, or will start the car. The button can start the car with the button illuminated or not illuminated. It might not have made any difference in this case, but putting the fob in the glovebox slot is always one of the first things to try, whether the start button is green or not.

 

You are 100% correct. I assumed that the green light lit in the presence of the fob, but going out to the garage without the keys proved that to be false.

Before giving up on the dashtronix module, I dropped the knee pad below the column (where I had attached the box with velcro) and examined the wiring. I found nothing, except that the modular plug on the dashtronix unit itself may have been loose. With everything buttoned up, both the car and the valentine/dashtronix unit are working again.

--Woody

 

Good news.