Auto headlight sensor
I think it has to be bad. I know it also integrates the Auto AC function. I tried today on my way to work. Set the AC to auto. It was 80F outside. All my AC did was stayed set at 60FF in full blast. Is this normal? I would think it adjust to the temp/day or night. I have never used auto AC



The sensor is the little hemispherical 'bubble' in the dash grille next to the center speaker.
Probably an easy DIY to pop the grille off and change out the sensor.
Last edited by Knob Jockey; Oct 30, 2015 at 12:37 AM.
with above on how to test it. I thought mine was broke on by daily driver as the lights were on iin the morning and it was sunny. I just happened to be taking it into the dealer for another waranty repair and was going to mention the sensor, Well wouldn't you know it the lights turned off right before I turned into their driveway.
I think it has to be bad. I know it also integrates the Auto AC function. I tried today on my way to work. Set the AC to auto. It was 80F outside. All my AC did was stayed set at 60FF in full blast. Is this normal? I would think it adjust to the temp/day or night. I have never used auto AC
The sensor is the little hemispherical 'bubble' in the dash grille next to the center speaker.
Probably an easy DIY to pop the grille off and change out the sensor.
After that, I was able to get them to shut off from slightly far away from the sensor. Will try tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe the sensor went our of whack? It's happened before but it never took this long nor did I have to put a flashlight to it. Maybe it is starting to fail??
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After that, I was able to get them to shut off from slightly far away from the sensor. Will try tomorrow and see what happens. Maybe the sensor went our of whack? It's happened before but it never took this long nor did I have to put a flashlight to it. Maybe it is starting to fail??
They usually turn on when I start it in the garage and it takes usually 20 seconds or so to turn off once I pull out into the driveway.



Lisa- the sensor in the dash is referred to as a "sunload sensor" in the Service Manual and shows that it is used for both the lighting and the HVAC.
The sensor in the front bumper area is for outside air temp.
Lisa- the sensor in the dash is referred to as a "sunload sensor" in the Service Manual and shows that it is used for both the lighting and the HVAC.
The sensor in the front bumper area is for outside air temp.



Could be as simple as a failing sensor. Electronic gremlins are always a PITA.
Wish I had a more helpfull answer for you.
Last edited by Knob Jockey; Oct 30, 2015 at 04:05 PM.
It works by sending a voltage reading to the BCM (via the HVAC) of the amount of day light it is seeing.
So when you start the car, the lights will come on, and after few mins for the BCM to see daylight long enough from the sensor (voltage in from the sensor constant long enough), then the BCM will kick off the lights.
On the other side of the coin, all it takes is a quick change in the voltage of the sensor so the car thinks that it in dusk lighting for just a brief second, and the BCM will kick the light on instead.
So BCM is quick to turn the lights on and keep them on like if you are going through a tunnel, but slow to turn the lights off instead (after you come out of the tunnel instead).
So being that the sensor is not throwing a code, it's putting out a voltage to begin with, either the sensor diode is starting to fail, the bubble on the sensor is clouding, or you have a problem in the wiring or BCM instead.
So on that note, with the center grill pulled, sensor pulled out of the speaker cover, it's pretty easy to clean the dome bubble, and just a touch of Brasso and cloth with clean any cloudiness of the sensor dome so the inner sensor can pick up the correct amount of light so the resistance from the sensor if correct for the lighting conditions.
Or, since you have the sensor in hand already, a replacement Corvette Daytime Running Lights Ambient Light Sensor is only around $25 instead.
To add, keep in mind that the BCM is reading sensor Voltage value through the sensor wiring to the BCM, so although you might think that the problem is with the sensor itself, it may be in the wire connections from the sensor to the BCM the problem instead (or even the BCM).
So the long way repair is to first test the sensor in both bright light and dark light conditions for its Resistance reading to begin with, and if the sensor checks out, then you know the problem is either in the wires or BCM instead. As for the quick way to determine such, a Tech II will give the reading at the BCM level and easy to check that against the actual sensor voltage level per lighting condition. If the two are not close to being the same, then wiring or HVAC/BCM problem instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Oct 31, 2015 at 03:20 AM.
I think so anyways. I don't use the "Auto" function very much. What was your temp set at? 60? I didn't think it went that low.
So today I drove the car at around 2pm until 3pm and it was sunny out. The senso works perfectly under this conditions. Parked for an hr and got back in at 4pm and then the sensor thinks its dark.
At this point I'm guessing it might be the tint interfering with it. But I mean the difference from 2pm to 4pm isn't much in sunlight.. Anyway to adjust the sensitivity???... It really irritates me and then my running lights don't work cuz when I override the auto light then I have no lights at all..



Unfortunately there's no way to force the car to stay in DRL mode.
I don't know if you can re-calibrate the sensor/circuit. The "Scientist" Dano523 is one of the few who could possibly answer that.
And, this isn't the first time somebody has posted about a similar issue when they had a tinted windshield, which happens to be illegal in my state.
At least you don't have to tear into your car.
The daytime running lamps (DRL) will illuminate the right and left front turn signal bulbs continuously. The DRLs will operate when the following conditions are met:
The ignition is in the RUN or CRANK position
The shift lever is out of the PARK position for vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions or the parking brake is released for vehicles with manual transmissions.
The high and low beam headlamps are OFF.
The ambient light sensor is used to monitor outside lighting conditions. The ambient light sensor provides a voltage signal that will vary between .2 and 4.9 volts depending on outside lighting conditions. The HVAC control module provides a low reference ground and a 5-volt reference signal to the ambient light sensor. The HVAC control module monitors the ambient light sensor signal circuit to determine if outside lighting conditions are correct for either daytime running lights (DRL) or automatic lamp control (ALC) when the headlamp switch is in the AUTO position. The HVAC control module sends a signal to the body control module (BCM) via class 2 serial data commanding the BCM to turn the front turn lamps on steady (non-flashing). Any function or condition that turns on the headlamps will cancel the DRL operation. With the turn signal/multifunction switch in the OFF position, the turn signal lamps will either be turned ON or OFF after a 30-second delay, depending on whether daylight or low light conditions are sensed by the ambient light sensor.[quote]
So the easy way to solve the tinted windshield problem with less light to the ambient sensor now, voltage regulator from the sensor input voltage wire, and jump past the sensor to connect the voltage regulator output back to the sensor output wire to gain back the needed sensor output voltage difference to compensate for the tint difference between the BCM night and day setting now. With out knowing the difference now of the sensors output voltage, would take a stab that is something like just a .5 voltage that would need to be added back in to the sensor output voltage to make the needed difference.
Or take the car into the dealer to be reprogrammed for the difference in the sensor reading due to the tinted windshield instead.
















