I have an 07 with 8500 miles on the clock. I was thinking it is time to possibly do the clutch fluid. Should I do it now or wait? Is there an instruction video I need to watch? I am mechanically inclined so I have no problem doing it. I just want to see it or read about. Tried going to the how-to part but I didn't see anything on it. Or maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. lol

LMK.

Thanks,

Paul

 

There are a couple of videos on youtube. Just search ranger clutch and corvette or any combination thereof and you should find it.

Simple process. Once you do it the first time and get clear fluid (can take a quite a few cycles), then it is a pretty simple 5-minute procedure every few months to maintain it.

 

I will look for it and do it. I believe it can't hurt! Thanks!

 

Just take the extra time to protect the fender paint. A mishap will be big deal.

I have been doing the method for 8 yrs now and my fluid is always clear. 5,000 yearly miles with maybe 3 changes a year. I do not even change the fluid more than once per session. The first time it took two change cycles. If neglected do not be surprised if it takes a few cycles to stay clear the first time.

 

I just did it for the first time on my 13 GS with 5,000 miles. Followed the YouTube video. Used Prestone Dot 4 brake fluid. Very easy. The fluid does look much cleaner now, but as far as I can tell my car is shifting exactly the same . . . which was already great. Good luck.

 

 

Review the maintenance schedule in your owners manual. Even with a low mileage car, you should be changing all the fluids. GM recommends a coolant change at five years. GM recommends The clutch fluid change at a regular maintenance service every two years. Following the Ranger method will make this an easy maintenance item, and most don't wait for the two year interval. It is easy to bleed the brake fluid, so bleed the brake fluid. and you should be good. Looks like smokinZ51 posted the ranger video for you. good luck and many here can help you with your questions.

 

I don't track my car at all, but I do change the clutch fluid every couple of months regularly. Takes just a few minutes, not expensive, easy, and hopefully, makes my clutch last longer.

 

I just can't go without my 2-cents worth on these fluid change threads...lOL. To change the fluids every 2 years or so is about the same as when they use to tell you to change your oil every 3000 miles.....absolutely a waste of time and $$$$....well...there ya have it.....

 

I would agree with this statement most of the time, but the clutch fluid get so black in a new vette it should be changed until clear. If done on a regular basis, it will stay clear for a long time.

 

And WADR, it isn't just the color of the clutch fluid. More importantly, it does make the clutch last longer but even more immediate, it makes shifting better. Not psychologically or "butt dyno", but actually. The clutch can get either sticky or slightly erratic as to when the takeup or catch point is. This is real, as is the lifespan of the clutch with frequent changes. Or, it can become unreal with no changes. Take your pick.

But, like buggy whips, some will insist nothing has changed and still use the buggy whip in their car to give it extra power.

 

I've been doing this to my 05 mn6 for eleven years and never had a clutch problem.

 

Well inquiring minds do want to know. What makes the clutch fluid turn black so quickly in a new vette ? And am also curious on how changing the fluid will make the clutch last longer ?

 

I actually did this yesterday for the second time since buying my car in June and I've put 4K miles on it. Both times I removed black fluid with small, solid particles in the bottom of the cylinder. Can't say I've noticed any performance difference in shifting but, if it gives me the opportunity to clean crap out of the cylinder and line, I'll spend four bucks and ten minutes on it every few months.

 

Two part'er realy.

In the new vets, the black pigement in the rubber seals leaches out, and will turn the fluid black. This is not a problem, but can mask the real problem next instead.

When you are using the clutch, the slave yclinder had a U shaped rubber plunger part that is riding on and inner and outer surfaces to push the throw out bearing forward to depress the clutch as you push in on the pedal.


The problem is clutch dust get in front of the U plunger piece on the surface walls, it rides over the clutch dust, and clutch dust gets into the fluid this way isntead.
Note, the inside of the bell housing is littered with clutch dust from using the clutch. There are some air vent passages to allow some of the dust to blow out, but even with this, not uncommon to have a 1/8" thick layer of clutch dust on all the surfaces in the bell housing static areas (like on the slave cylinder parts).

Since the clutch dust is abrasive, it end up wearing out the slave cylinder rubber seals quicker, and in regards to the master cylinder that is plastic (including it seal walls), really wears it out quickly when in the fluid instead.

So really, the game plan to have the clutch cylinder walls (and seal) last as long a possible, you want to do fluid changes on the fluid to try to keep is clear as your base line instead.

So you start with the ranger method with clutch pumps for the first few times, then from there, start to just suck the fluid out and replace it in the tank every few weeks until is stays clear, then every few months after point next. Hence after the first fluid change doing the ranger method, you driving the car and using the clutch will do the pumps for you instead, and just a mater of watching the fluid color to see if it time to change the fluid out in the tank.

Note: clutch dust in the lines is a know problem, and GM calls out for the clutch fluid lines to be power bleed every two years to deal with the problem that way instead. The glitch, the bleed valve on the slave is a monster to get at since it at the top front of the bell housing, and what should be a easy process, became a nightmare with having to remove exhaust tubes to get to the bleed valve instead. So by staying in front of the dust problem via ranger bleeding, it saves you hundreds every few years of having GM power bleed the system instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html

 

Thanks ya'll I haven't had a chance yet. I will n Let you all know the scoop.

BTW...
A friend of mine disagrees with the ranger method. Doesn't believe in changing it at all!

 

Let me ask a question...
after the first initial clean and after pumping the clutch 30-40 times, do i repeat changing it until fluid is clear?

 

Yes!

 

Paul you might also "look up " a video of ranger at the dragstrip. He is in the top 10 on the fast list for his C5 Z06 and in his C6 Z06 . He drives his Vette harder than most guys on the forum. I think his advice on preventive maintenance should be consider as his cars where dead stock and lasted for years. Just my 2 cents. But after you check your fluid in your car< i think it will convince you. My car was new and fluid was black after 2k miles. I have been doing it on all my vettes since 1998 and never had to replace the clutch. The oldest went 80k

 

Well thats a good explanation of that system, but i'm still confused. A worn out clutch used to be considered a clutch that the friction material has been worn so bad that there was not enough clamping force to engage the engine to the transmission without slippage. Thats what is usually considered a worn out clutch. So with that being said, does the changing of the fluid so often keep that clutch disc material from wearing pre-maturely, or has the definition of a worn out clutch disc changed?