Broke my shift cable, need help please
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Broke my shift cable, need help please
While replacing the shift cable plastic bushing that's under the center console, I broke the cable. I'm going to order a new cable part# 10352529 for my 05 A4. Does anyone have the shop manual repair instructions or pictures on how to replace this cable?
Maybe you did this repair yourself and could give me some pointers? This will be the first time jacking my Vette up to do a repair.
Thanks in advance, Rich.
Maybe you did this repair yourself and could give me some pointers? This will be the first time jacking my Vette up to do a repair.
Thanks in advance, Rich.
#2
Melting Slicks
Plan on two hours.
The h-pipe and torque tube cover needs to come off. Then you will have access to the cable front to rear.
The bushing repair is dumbest, common example of how cheap some Corvette owners are.
The cable is 50.00 at your local dealership.
If the bushings fail, the rest of the cable is not far behind.
Mine failed at 100K miles. I keep a spare in the trunk. AAA can pull me to a dealer.
The cable is not a part that dealers keep in stock.
The h-pipe and torque tube cover needs to come off. Then you will have access to the cable front to rear.
The bushing repair is dumbest, common example of how cheap some Corvette owners are.
The cable is 50.00 at your local dealership.
If the bushings fail, the rest of the cable is not far behind.
Mine failed at 100K miles. I keep a spare in the trunk. AAA can pull me to a dealer.
The cable is not a part that dealers keep in stock.
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BRussell (07-05-2016)
#3
Race Director
I don't agree with your sentiments. Yes the cable itself is relatively cheap but the entire parts and labor cost is closer to $500 at the GM dealer and a royal PITA for the average DIY if you want to save the labor cost. I have heard of very few actual cable splitting failures reported here on the forum. The vast majority of cable failures is just split plastic grommets and most often the front grommet. The OP broke his cable trying to replace the grommet. The service shop manual warns the cable is very inflexible and subject to breaking if not handled carefully when connecting and disconnecting at the bottom of the shifter lever. The cable has very capability to bend. When I replaced my front grommet, I rotated the rear tranny housing shift lever forward to push the shift cable as far forward as possible to gain more access to the cable eyelet. When I had the new grommet snapped into place, I rotated the rear shifter lever rearward to retract the cable to better line up with the bottom of the console shifter lever grommet pin prior to reconnecting the cable. JMHO
Last edited by GOLD72; 07-05-2016 at 01:23 PM.
#4
I don't agree with your sentiments. Yes the cable itself is relatively cheap but the entire parts and labor cost is closer to $500 at the GM dealer and a royal PITA for the average DIY if you want to save the labor cost. I have heard of very few actual cable splitting failures reported here on the forum. The vast majority of cable failures is just split plastic grommets and most often the front grommet. The OP broke his cable trying to replace the grommet. The service shop manual warns the cable is very inflexible and subject to breaking if not handled carefully when connecting and disconnecting at the bottom of the shifter lever. The cable has very capability to bend. When I replaced my front grommet, I rotated the rear tranny housing shift lever forward to push the shift cable as far forward as possible to gain more access to the cable eyelet. When I had the new grommet snapped into place, I rotated the rear shifter lever rearward to retract the cable to better line up with the bottom of the console shifter lever grommet pin prior to reconnecting the cable. JMHO
#5
Racer
another problem waiting to happen to my 2005 A4!! I do a lot of "manual" shifting and now wonder if this will contribute the premature failure of the cable?
#7
#9
Race Director
For the time and effort to reach the front grommet for lubing an old bushing, you just as well replace it with a new one. The very lifting of the shifter module with the cable still attached is going to place a stress on a grommet that may already be getting brittle. You could lube and install a new grommet but over several years of intense heat, I doubt it will slow down the thermal aging of the plastic.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
For the time and effort to reach the front grommet for lubing an old bushing, you just as well replace it with a new one. The very lifting of the shifter module with the cable still attached is going to place a stress on a grommet that may already be getting brittle. You could lube and install a new grommet but over several years of intense heat, I doubt it will slow down the thermal aging of the plastic.
#11
Team Owner
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For the time and effort to reach the front grommet for lubing an old bushing, you just as well replace it with a new one. The very lifting of the shifter module with the cable still attached is going to place a stress on a grommet that may already be getting brittle. You could lube and install a new grommet but over several years of intense heat, I doubt it will slow down the thermal aging of the plastic.
Is the yellowish end the one that goes bad first?
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Bruze (07-06-2016)
#14
Race Director
The yellow thing is the plastic grommet insert that splits into two pieces when it breaks. I found one half still attached to the shifter bottom pin and the other half still inside the black cable end eyelet. I wasn't paying attention on my car whether the black cable end eyelet was metal or plastic. My thoughts is that the black end felt like a Bakelite composite material. The new Dorman kit grommets are white. They might yellow as the thermally age and get brittle. The rear grommet is identical to the front grommet.
Last edited by GOLD72; 07-06-2016 at 09:54 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
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#16
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It's always the inner grommet that breaks anyway, right?
When mine goes, I'll make one out of Oilite bushing material.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter