The autoscrub washmitts are excellent as well. Claybar still does a great job, but it just another step in the process.

 

I contacted Autogeek and they kind of made suggestions and walked me through what my research resulted. I started out small and slow and now two years later, it’s become part of my spring routine. I think I may try to apply a ceramic coating this year. Do research, ask questions, view YouTube, and start out small and slowly. You should be fine.

 

Spend some time just watching the Autogeek videos, and as others have said - go slow and let the machine do the work.

Three other pieces of advice....

1) Step one - wash the car to remove all dirt.

2) After washing the car once - wash it a second time with a cleaner that will remove the old waxes / "sealants" that you have on the car. Normally - we don't want to hurt the wax on the car when we wash it - but if you are going to be working on the clearcoat - you don't want any old wax on there. Rinse THOROUGHLY !!!!

3) When deciding how aggressive a compound to use - it's better to take a chance with too mild a compound and realize that it didn't do what you needed it to than to initially go with something too aggressive. For a pro - where time is money - they can't take too much time to do a car - but for a DIY'er - it's better to be conservative.



I've (successfully) used a rotary buffer, and while I'm not even close to being "good" with them - it is truly amazing what they can do !!! But with the old wool pads - they could also ruin a finish in a heartbeat. Today - with the foam pads - even amateurs can use the big rotary buffers "relatively safely" - but from where I'm sitting the only real advantages the rotary buffers have over the DA's is speed, and their ability to deal with major paint defects. So - from a DIY perspective - I would stick with a DA on a vehicle you care about. If you want to play with a rotary buffer - GREAT - but learn / practice on a vehicle that you don't care about, or on a panel that is going to be repainted anyway. If you stick to relatively mild compounds with a DA let the machine do the work and respect edges - it's hard to screw things up.


QUESTION for grzldvt1 - What is your opinion of the Lake Country pads vs. the Rupes pads for a DA???

 

I use Wolfgangs they make a great product

 

I’ve watched junk man’s videos before when I had my SS Camaro. Will be getting more supplies and working on the Vette soon.

 

I have the same DA polisher from Porter Cable and it does a great job.
As others have mentioned, it is a multi-step process but if you take the time to do it right, then you just have to maintain it after that and you don't need to keep doing it. Do it out of direct sunlight when the temperature is moderate.

1. wash
2. clay bar or nano skin - removes embedded debris
3. compound - removes swirls and scratches in clearcoat
4. polish - fine finishing for a great reflecting shine
5. sealant or wax - protect against oxidation, weather etc.

I use Wolfgang products and Lake Country pads

 

I would say Rupes has very slight better technology in the polishing end. I had a ton of Lake Country pads and no doubt they were good, but "for the moment Rupes has slightly one upped them. Give it a time and who knows. What I like about the Rupes pads is they have a broader range of cleanup/polish based on product and speed of the DA and the angular edges of teh Rupes allows me to get into curves a little better.
I could go into a PH.D dissertation. Bottom line you need to do a little experimentation on the speed, with your product and pad.

However these simply kick butt when removing the ugly stuff to medium scratches/swirlsMeguiar's Cutting Pads
I have been able to create stunning results, NOT just OK, or excellent, but stunning results with these pads. I have not come across, and darlinks we experiment with a lot of pads, anything that is so flexible with various compounds.
Does that help or confuse?

 

THANK YOU !!! It Helps !!! I'm an amateur, but I do like to try to keep the finish on my toys looking good. Most of the time that means just getting it good - then taking care of it - but sometimes you need to go back and clean up some problems that the roads have created....

I have been using the Lake Country pads for a while, and I'm quite happy with them. I have also used the Meguiars foam pads with rotary (for doing some large panels) - but with very gentle compounds, and have been happy with them as well.

Again - THANK YOU for your input !!!!

 

 

I can't even get past step one! The damn water hose is frozen solid. My polisher and stuff came in last night and I am anxious to get started but it's probably too cold as my shop is not heated.

 

If you use waterless wash you'll never have that hose problem again.

 

I'm sorry, did you say waterless wash?! Is that like a cordless extension cord?

Seriously, I've never heard of that....so I googled it. Interesting.

I think I'd still like to rinse off with water. A cat walked across the hood and left muddy paw prints! IKR! I was ready to kill the cat. Anyway, I want to hose it off before I use any rag or sponge.

 

Waterless wash with a clean microfiber cloth would take care of that without having to deal with washing/drying with water. It also works with the clay as a lubricant, and on your polishing pads to prime them. I use Gary Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice from Amazon.

 

So I ordered Turtle Wax T-3KT Black Box Kit and it came with two bottle of 'Black Spray Detailers'. I was gonna use that with the clay.....not I'm not sure.

 

That'll work ok; just make sure to use plenty. You want the clay to glide over the paint and not get stuck. I used to use Meguiar's, which is basically the same quality as the Turtle Wax, and found a HUGE difference with the stuff that I use now.

 

Before you clay it would be best to wash the car twice and use a soap that will remove all the wax that is on the car. This is the only time I would say it is ok to use dawn dish soap and make sure you rinse it thoroughly. Once the car is polished, waxed etc. you can use the waterless wash for maintenance if the car is not filthy dirty. Even with waterless wash there is a technique how to properly do it. Once again manufacturer videos and youtube are your friend.

 

If the car is relatively clean already, there's no need to wash it just to remove the wax. The clay will do that for you.

 

Not so much, it is great for the hobbyist looking for OK results, but I have used several brands and at best achieved mediocre results. On cars that are very clean they are great, on cars that have not had much work done to them... ie a ton of contaminants, they simply can't do the job.
As a pro detailer I am always looking for the best, while good, not as much old school as one would believe.

 

I 2nd the recommendation on the Car Care Section of the Forum. Great tips, hints & videos there.

I also 2nd the recommendation on Adams Polishes. Their Waterless Wash product is great. Follow the instructions and have just when you think you have enough microfiber towels, buy MORE.

And speaking of microfiber towels, don't buy the cheap ones like I did thinking you'll save $$. I now use the "cheapies" like a paper towel and throw them out after a single use.

When using a clay bar/mit/towel, etc, I don't think you can have too much lubricant.

 

I have a couple bundles of the cheap microfiber towels like 12 for $6.