Given the same year and model car in two regions of the US, is one a better deal when purchasing? Would you simply look at price or geographical location and mileage as weighing more in your decision? Dealer vs private party?

Both vehicles are 2013 GS 3LT. Same wheels and color on both w/ clean title and CarFax.

Vehicle 1:
Midwest (MO)
$38,000
12,500 miles

Vehicle 2:
Southeast (FL)
$32,000
39,000 miles

Would the warmer climate of FL be worth the $6k and +26k miles? Or would the lower milage MO car be a better deal?

 

Given the two choices, I'd go with the one from MO before the one from FL.

 

I'd take the climates out of it, it sounds like you're looking as FL being an advantage, I think the opposite in this case. With 12k miles, the MO probably hasn't seen much foul weather, and with 39k, the FL car has seen more than enough sun for its age.

So are 20k miles worth $6000? Tough call, I'd give the edge to the $32000 car though.

 

Less mileage is preferable, and when you're spending that much money, what's an extra 6 g's? Are the prices negotiable?

 

Based on the typical mileage depreciations I've seen in Corvettes, and assuming all else is equal, I'd have to give the edge to the $32,000 car as well. If I were deciding, part of my decision would be also based on how much I anticipated driving the car once I owned it.

 

#2 if the records are all there.

 

So now here comes the curveball...

#1 is private party, price out the door...
#2 is a dealer, which would probably add for stupid **** like tire nitrogen and a "security" sticker on the window, that I would end up having to remove with a heat gun.

FL is also further from me so I will have to add in the cost of getting it home further. Either more airfare and gas, or shipping if I go that route. Still worth the $6k?

 

Narrows that gap some for sure. What's your gut telling you? Scanning cargurus.com for comparable vehicles would show that $38,000 price tag to be a fair price at this time.

 

I would go with the the $32K. You can afford some upgrades saving 6 G’s. I bought mine at 33K, and now have 50K, and only a battery later. Everything is running perfectly.

 

Nailed it. If you've never lived there, Florida sun is brutal. Like "is my skin melting? No just inconeratong" brutal. The FL car was likely out in that sun a lot, probably commuting in bumper to bumper traffic.

I would buy the lower mileage car.

 

The dealer car is their asking price? If so, you have $2-3k negotiating room on that price, so maybe around $30k +TTL

 

Ok, no more hypotheticals:

Car #1
Car #2
Optional car #3

 

won't you also be paying sales tax on the dealer purchase? Is private party purchase still tax free in CA? If it is going to be a daily driver, racking up miles, you will lose the "low mileage" benefit in short order. If sales tax is not an issue, I would be the $32K car.

As for some other folks...just because you think the FL sun is hot does not mean it is affecting your car. Geez...like you think that the sun in TX, AZ, and NV somehow is not hot? How often does it hit 115 in FL??? And, the higher humidity certainly won't hurt the car, so I don't see your logic.

 

Looks like either I made a mistake, or the price in FL went up. It is closer to $35k. There will also be tax in CA even from a private party. When registering I tell the DMV how much I "payed" for the vehicle and they apply tax. It is roughly 11% so about $4k on a $38k car. Shipping the car from Tampa to LA will be about $1100. Or I figure $475 for gas plus flight, uber to dealer, and hotels for the 3 day trip home. So, I am still into it over $1k if I go pick it up myself.

As for intended usage, the car will split time with my 4Runner for DD. Vette three days a week to work and on weekends. 4Runner two days a week and errands where I need to shop for anything.

 

I'd fly to Florida. Have a nice vacation. Then drive it home. Cars from Missouri get a rough life. Bad weather and worse roads. I drove up to Springfield for the weekend just last week. Roads are a mess. I bought my 2006 in 2016. 50K on it. Now has 101K. Only minor problems. Regular stuff like battery, tires, shocks. Plus upgrades. I drive it every day. Unless roads are icy or snow covered. It is a Chevy, not a Buggatti.

39k is just a break in period.

 

Until you see the carfax's and Gm service history reports before hand, you really don't know. Even after that, until you get your eyes on the car and have a Pre-Purchase Inspection done a private shop, still don't know.

Hence lot of variables in the math over just the initial asking price, and with the above out of the way to know your not buying a problem child to start with, all is an unknown.

As for location, again really just depends. Fl car will see a lot of salt water humidity in itself, while a Missouri car may have been driven on salted roads instead. With season now in spring (winter long behind) both locations will end with the vet asking price being higher than if you bought it dead of winter in a show storm instead.

 

I'd pass on #3 just cause the black wheels don't look right with the body color. Also, not sure if it is the camera angle but the head light lenses looks very milky, they also advertise no "haggle pricing", so don't be looking for any special deals there. #2 presents itself nicely, looks pretty spotless and well taken care of. The dealership looks like they have a nice collection of quality vehicles. #1 not sure if it is the camera angle but, it looks lowered. Owner could have taken better pictures and has nothing to really say in ad about his GS. If I were serious I would start with option #2.


When I purchased my 08Z out of state from a dealership. The sales guy sent me around 60 pictures, close-ups of areas I specified, all 4 tire treads, panels by rear air ducts, engine bay, seats, carpet under mats on both sides and rear cargo area, all four wheels, gauges, dashboard, door panels, front bumper, rear bumper, you get where I'm going with this? I spent a couple of hours going through the pictures, zooming in even closer to see details. If I questioned something I called back for a couple different angles. I was happy with what I was seeing so I spoke with the sales manager and we negotiated price. After that I put a refundable deposit on it to hold pending a Chevy dealership inspection, which I would pay for. The next day they drove the car to the nearest Chevy dealership to have it inspected. Chevy emailed me the report with brake pads, rotors and the tires measurements. All electronics were tested and working. The only thing they found was that the windshield wiper blades needed replaced. The dealership also sent me the vehicle history maintenance report. This all started on a Wednesday evening, I made the 600 mile trip early Saturday morning and was signing the paperwork by 9am.

 

Setting up inspection company on option #3. If all is good, I will be setting up the transport company. I thought the same thing about the headlights and had the dealer confirm with photos of the vehicle inside the showroom. Crystal clear!

The "no haggle pricing" is pretty much like CarMax is doing where they price a vehicle in the KBB range and list it. They do not add anything to the price like tire nitrogen and scotchguarded floor mats. If they do, it is all part of the listed price. I prefer that business model because if I am not prepared to accept that price I simply move on to another car. They actually lowered it to $36,900.

 

Good luck!

 

Take the one from Missouri, lower miles with everything else being equal.