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Just got my Quickjack put together, but haven’t tested it with my C6 yet. The lift points on the car in the owners manual don’t seem to be compatible with the quickjack. Can anyone show me what lift points they are using with their quickjack? Photos greatly appreciated.
I get the quickjack supplied rubber blocks positioned directly under the lift points on the frame rails, and they fit easily in the body panel “cut out” area around the frame rail lift points. Using the metal jacking pucks that I have, made the car pretty unstable during the lift process ....mine actually started to slide off on one side when I lifted the car...with my jacking pucks installed and also using the quickjack rubber blocks....so I don’t use my jacking pucks with my quickjack. Maybe “rubber” jacking pucks might work better vs metal ones....but the different sized rubber blocks that quickjack sent along, work fine.
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I get the quickjack supplied rubber blocks positioned directly under the lift points on the frame rails, and they fit easily in the body panel “cut out” area around the frame rail lift points. Using the metal jacking pucks that I have, made the car pretty unstable during the lift process ....mine actually started to slide off on one side when I lifted the car...with my jacking pucks installed and also using the quickjack rubber blocks....so I don’t use my jacking pucks with my quickjack. Maybe “rubber” jacking pucks might work better vs metal ones....but the different sized rubber blocks that quickjack sent along, work fine.
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I have the rubber style "leave in" pucks. Maybe that's the difference. (btw I don't leave them in) I agree that the pucks aren't strictly required if car is taken on placement of the QuickJack pads.
I have the 5000 model and use the regular lift points. Which model do you have?
I also have the 5000, and plan on using the lifting points shown, with the supplied rubber blocks. In the owners manual it shows lifting points on the frame, just inside the wheels. I don’t see how a quickjack could use those points. They seem to be more intended for a professional lift like what you would find at a shop.
I also have the 5000, and plan on using the lifting points shown, with the supplied rubber blocks. In the owners manual it shows lifting points on the frame, just inside the wheels. I don’t see how a quickjack could use those points. They seem to be more intended for a professional lift like what you would find at a shop.
From reading what you just posted, it sounds like you are confused. Those Red Circles are the same place the owners manual shows. The Red Cirlces are the frame. They make “pucks” that lock in to those holes in the frame so you can use a lift. The manual also shows one place front and rear on the crossmembers that you can “jack” the vehicle up, but those points are not for using a “lift”. Once you have your vehicle up on the QJ, you will see. I love my QJ, but before I bought it, I lifted my Vette using the crossmembers as mention in the manual... I would not want to lift the whole vehicle that way, only one end at a time. But it’s good enough to get some Jack Stands under.
I also have the 5000, and plan on using the lifting points shown, with the supplied rubber blocks. In the owners manual it shows lifting points on the frame, just inside the wheels. I don’t see how a quickjack could use those points. They seem to be more intended for a professional lift like what you would find at a shop.
I have the 5000. I use hockey pucks with eye bolts into the jack points and then use the rubber lifting blocks on the lift mated to the pucks.
I also have the 5000, and plan on using the lifting points shown, with the supplied rubber blocks. In the owners manual it shows lifting points on the frame, just inside the wheels. I don’t see how a quickjack could use those points. They seem to be more intended for a professional lift like what you would find at a shop.
I have the leave in pucks and use the lift points shown in the picture with the rubber blocks. I have used the frame lift points before but don't see them working with the Quick Jack. Once I bought it, I don't use anything else. It works great with my wife's SUV and my daughters car.
Sorry for the guy going turtle, but can some one point arrows to the jack points other than the frame pad points. That is the perfect picture for demo purposes.
Like where to place jack stands.
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by toytruckman; Sep 8, 2018 at 10:18 PM.
Sorry for the guy going turtle, but can some one point arrows to the jack points other than the frame pad points. That is the perfect picture for demo purposes.
Like where to place jack stands.
Thanks
Dave
Ok. Yellow arrows below point to jack stand locations on the front and rear cross members. These locations are not to be used with the QuickJack. This photo actually isn't great to show the rear locations. In the front, the cross member behind the leaf spring (not labeled) can also be used, but is hard to reach with a jack. It's not a good idea to jack directly on the cross members. At a minimum a 2x4 should be used. Some people say that while it's ok to support the car at the yellow arrow locations shown, it's not a good idea to lift the car from the center of the cross member even with a 2x4. The second photos shows 2x6's with blocks on each side to allow the jack to be used in the center with weight being transferred the sides. (Front on left and rear on right.) Once lifted the jack stands can be put in place and the jack lowered. Some people worry about the wood giving way and fabricate a metal version of these supports. It's also a good idea to drive the car up onto 2x6's before jacking so there's enough room to get the jack under the front cross member. Probably more than you wanted to know and sliding off topic for this thread. QuickJack is so much more convenient.
Sorry for the guy going turtle, but can some one point arrows to the jack points other than the frame pad points. That is the perfect picture for demo purposes.
Like where to place jack stands.
Thanks
Dave
You can also use a jack on the frame lift points. The frame is stiff enough where jacking up the front will also lift the rear wheel off the ground. I typically use a floor jack and a metal 2X4 wide enough to install jackstands on the ends. Not recommended to suspend both front and read of the car this way, if I need to have the entire car in the air, I'll support one end on the cross member and the other on the frame.