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Takes about a quart for a full flush, but you need to cycle the ABS pump to get the old fluid out of it, and in with then new fluid as well.
So the way I do it, use a syringe to pull all the old fluid out of the tank both sides, and fill with fresh about half way up both sides, put your power bleeder on the tank (I use 15lb air with bleeder pressure cap) and pick the back rear passenger side, then the front passenger side to start the flush until the fluid runs clear on these two, so you now that you have clean fluid at least to the ABS unit.
Now use a tech II to do a brake automated brake bleed procedure, which will cycles the abs pump each cylinder and make sure to that all the old fluid is out of the abs pump, and the new fluid back in.
Once I know that the fluid if fresh from the tank to past the ABS unit, will go back and do the normal power bleed procedure on the each caliper, including doing a quick pump up on the brake pedal and hold with the valve closed to knock off an air bubble still clinging to the caliper plunger seal, then quick valve open and close before the brake pedal reaches the floor each cylinder as the final on each caliper (back passenger rear first, driver rear, passenger front, and final on the driver front).
Hence power bleeder is only working at 15lbs of pressure, and want to get a lot more pressure on the piston seals moving via the pedal pump up and valve crack open to make sure that any air bubble are broken free to rise to the top of the calipers and push out. It may seem like over kill, but does make a hell of a difference at the pedal to make sure it rock hard in end, verses slightly mushy instead.
On a z06/GS or ZR1 since you have the cross over tube on the caliper to the pistons on the other side, will do the pump up and hold pedal pressure twice with bleeder vale cracked open and closed before the brake pedal hits the floor instead. This makes sure that any bubbles on the inner side of the caliper have been broken free, pushed to the outer side on the first pump up and crack through the cross over tube , then cleared from the outer side on second pressure crack open of the valve.
Also to point out, since I am only using air pressure during the power bleed on the tank with it kept about half full of fluid for the bleed process, will check the fluid in the tank after each caliper I'm working on, then to the final tank fill to full line in the end.
And why I bring up the abs pump, if you allow any air to get into the ABS unit, you will have to cycle the ABS pump to get all the air out of it to begin with, or your never going to get the pedal hard/not going to floor after the power bleed.
I have wondered how effective it would be to replace the fluid in the reservoir, bleed the right rear and front, then drive the car and hit the brakes hard enough to feel the ABS cycle in the brake pedal a few times. Then repeat the fluid replacement and do a complete bleed?
I had the dealership do all my fluids this month, including the brake fluid, I do this every 5 years.
Nothing personal, but I'm guessing the OP, who's planning on doing his own work, either doesn't trust dealers or doesn't want to pay their exorbitant prices.
I have wondered how effective it would be to replace the fluid in the reservoir, bleed the right rear and front, then drive the car and hit the brakes hard enough to feel the ABS cycle in the brake pedal a few times. Then repeat the fluid replacement and do a complete bleed?
I too have wondered if this would work and be effective? Any comments (Dano523)?
I have wondered how effective it would be to replace the fluid in the reservoir, bleed the right rear and front, then drive the car and hit the brakes hard enough to feel the ABS cycle in the brake pedal a few times. Then repeat the fluid replacement and do a complete bleed?
I would also like to know. Also does anybody have any experience with the handheld tech units that say they will activate the abs pump? I am going to do some HST track time at Hallet Speedway this spring so I need to replace mine this winter. Thanks
I too have wondered if this would work and be effective? Any comments (Dano523)?
Thanks.....
The ABS system only works the vavles to keep the wheels moving, while it would be the Active handling system that would kick in the pump to active the brakes on specific caliber without our foot off the brake isntead. This A/H of the pump cycling may be enough to drive out some air bubbles, but really not enough fluid pushed out to transfer all the fluid in the pump with fresh fluid isntead.
And if you did have air in the pump, not even sure that you could press the pedal down far enough before going to the bottom of pedal stroke to even lock up the brakes in the first place.
Bottom line it, if you are going to wrench on the car yourself, then really need a Tech II to begin with isntead.
I have a 2007 C6 and want to do a flush, the owners manual says to use "Delco Supreme 11 DOT3 brake fluid" but I can't find it. I went to the dealership to see what they use. The Dot 3 ($10) on the left is what the car originally used when new. The Dot 4 ($20) (middle) is what they use in the new Corvettes and is okay for the C6. The jug on the right BG ($80) is what the dealership will use if you get the brake flush service. Just want to share this research to maybe save you a trip to the stealership.
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