Did My Motor Blow? Hope Not! Video and Sound.
#121
Team Owner
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Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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Yah, I don't get the negative responses in general either. An Agony Aunt once wrote "If you got nothing to say, don't say it". Equivalently, if it's not supposed to be helpful, why bother? And the belt: relatively easy to take off, not so much going back on if the one I did in my 08 Caddy was an example. You need a strong arm and good length breaker bar on the tensioner. An extra pair of hands helps a lot. Good luck getting your vette repaired.
Now, if you're a fan of "Hey everybody, watch this", check out out how to R+R a VW Beetle fan belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA
Now, if you're a fan of "Hey everybody, watch this", check out out how to R+R a VW Beetle fan belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA
The upside: You might save ten minutes.
The downside: You could lose a finger.
Attachment 48331947
#122
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That was a cool video. I had to keep my hands away from the monitor as I felt they were going to get sucked in that video. lol
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#123
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#124
Racer
Hope your surgery goes well and wish you a speedy recovery. The car will be fine once the shop is done. Is it possible that you are not holding oil volume but pressure shows? I don't have the dry sump in my GS as it is an automatic so I am not familiar with the drain and fill procedure. Is there any chance a seal ring on a tube or fitting was dislodged or cut and not actually giving true oil volume to keep the lifters saturated and pumped up? I cut an o ring seal on the filler tube from the oil pickup on a brand new LS 1 some time ago and it sounded the same. I had pressure but no volume. I replaced the o ring and it was able to get full volume and complete quiet after that. Just a thought. And again thank you for the help you gave me with my start up screen it gives me a smile every time I start the car.
#125
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hope your surgery goes well and wish you a speedy recovery. The car will be fine once the shop is done. Is it possible that you are not holding oil volume but pressure shows? I don't have the dry sump in my GS as it is an automatic so I am not familiar with the drain and fill procedure. Is there any chance a seal ring on a tube or fitting was dislodged or cut and not actually giving true oil volume to keep the lifters saturated and pumped up? I cut an o ring seal on the filler tube from the oil pickup on a brand new LS 1 some time ago and it sounded the same. I had pressure but no volume. I replaced the o ring and it was able to get full volume and complete quiet after that. Just a thought. And again thank you for the help you gave me with my start up screen it gives me a smile every time I start the car.
Last edited by Oh Boy; 04-09-2019 at 10:27 PM.
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#126
Racer
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
#127
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
I added STP to my previously-mentioned '63 Olds with the occasional sticky lifter -- and it made the problem worse.
#128
Racer
If that worked long-term, then you probably just had a gunk/varnish problem with the lifter or bore. It wouldn't work long-term if there was an actual physical problem with the lifter or bore, as is the case (apparently) with the OP.
I added STP to my previously-mentioned '63 Olds with the occasional sticky lifter -- and it made the problem worse.
I added STP to my previously-mentioned '63 Olds with the occasional sticky lifter -- and it made the problem worse.
STP .. we as teenagers used to call it engine honey, if that is the same as you used. Sure solved oil consumption and smoking exhaust. It probably also increased the oil viscosity to 60. Not good in an LS7.
Looking into the valve train through the breather and the picture shows dry, no oil. Sure sounds like plugged lifter, lifters. Nothing coming up the push rod.
#129
Team Owner
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Totally agree. I must have missed the part about a damaged bore or lifter. In my case it must have been some crud that blocked the port in the lifter.
STP .. we as teenagers used to call it engine honey, if that is the same as you used. Sure solved oil consumption and smoking exhaust. It probably also increased the oil viscosity to 60. Not good in an LS7.
Looking into the valve train through the breather and the picture shows dry, no oil. Sure sounds like plugged lifter, lifters. Nothing coming up the push rod.
STP .. we as teenagers used to call it engine honey, if that is the same as you used. Sure solved oil consumption and smoking exhaust. It probably also increased the oil viscosity to 60. Not good in an LS7.
Looking into the valve train through the breather and the picture shows dry, no oil. Sure sounds like plugged lifter, lifters. Nothing coming up the push rod.
LOL, yes STP was the magic stuff back then. My best buddy's dad was a big believer in it, he used it in everything. If memory serves, the letters stood for "Specially Treated Petroleum." I quit using it after it made my Olds worse.
This is what the old cans looked like that we used:
#130
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
Regarding the OP: We still don't know what exactly what is wrong with the lifter(s).
LOL, yes STP was the magic stuff back then. My best buddy's dad was a big believer in it, he used it in everything. If memory serves, the letters stood for "Specially Treated Petroleum." I quit using it after it made my Olds worse.
This is what the old cans looked like that we used:
LOL, yes STP was the magic stuff back then. My best buddy's dad was a big believer in it, he used it in everything. If memory serves, the letters stood for "Specially Treated Petroleum." I quit using it after it made my Olds worse.
This is what the old cans looked like that we used:
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#132
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I don't know, I'm kind of scared to run it. I don't want to make it worse by doing this, but imagine if this did work?
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#133
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.
Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#134
Drifting
Maybe someone else will jump in with an opinion...unless the noise got progressively louder after you started it, I don't know, I might try it, it would only be at idle, right? And you'd be monitoring your oil pressure. The curiosity would be killing me...
#135
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Since I read that post it already is.
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Steel City (04-16-2019)
#136
When I watched your video, it brought me back to this moment a couple years ago:
I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:
Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.
Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:
Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.
Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
#137
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
Until you verify oil flow (your comments re: dry in oil filler hole) I would not be running the engine.
Just me.
Last edited by ruxvette; 04-15-2019 at 09:34 PM.
#138
Racer
When I watched your video, it brought me back to this moment a couple years ago: https://youtu.be/4jjcYDmU_T0
I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:
Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.
Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:
Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.
Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
there certainly are similarities to your video and the OP. He is either in for a very minor issue or major $$$.
My suggestion with the Seafoam might be simplistic, but could instantly answer the question .. minor vs major. That Seafoam stuff is the best I’ve ever used in both cars and airplanes for thoroughly cleaning oil passages. Just be sure to thoroughly change the oil and filter after.
An interesting aside, back in the late ‘50s, my dad used to use diesel in the crankcase to clean out the engine. He’d drain the oil, put a new filter cartridge into his 54 Ford truck and put back a quart over the 5 to fill the crankcase. Run it for 15 minutes and drain it out. Funny thing is he’d put the drained diesel back into his Cat D4. I eventually helped him rebuild the straight 6 in that truck. There wasn’t one trace of sludge, anywhere. And that’s back when they used a high percentage of paraffin in the oils. Old techniques that die with time.
#139
Racer
Minor: $ when you changed your oil, somehow the new oil’s detergent loosened up some crud. That little piece of crud makes its way up to one or two of your jitters, blocking the tiny oil passage. Without oil, your lifter piston doesn’t pressurize and make a ticking or clacking sound, very similar to what you hear in your video. Adding a strong solvent to the oil such as Seafoam will dissolve the crud and restore pressure to your lifter(s).
Major: $$$$. You have a damaged lifter ( s ). Body of lifter or roller is damaged, flattened. The lifter no longer rides smoothly over the cam lobe. 9 out of 10 times it scores the cam lobe mandating replacement of the camshaft. It involves thanking your engine apart down to removing the camshaft, which comes out the front of the engine. Radiator and ac condenser usually get pulled also. It’s a moderately expensive repair .. $1800 tp $ 2500 that Ive witnessed.
Frankly, I’d take the easiest approach first. If you have oil pressure, then at least the moving assemblies are being lubricated.
#140
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I started the car for the first time today since last week. I didn't sound as bad, motor still runs smooth but definitely still there. Is my mind playing tricks, probably so. So I said **** it and tried the Seafoam and let the car run for 10 minutes up to operating temp with out reving it once, just idle. No change. Before I started it I put a rag in the oil port on the valve cover
and soaked up that puddle of oil that sits in there. I checked it again after I shut it off and the puddle was back, so at least on that side I have oil flow and the gauge is reading strong oil pressure, never wavering so I guess that is good. So in essence nothing new to report.
and soaked up that puddle of oil that sits in there. I checked it again after I shut it off and the puddle was back, so at least on that side I have oil flow and the gauge is reading strong oil pressure, never wavering so I guess that is good. So in essence nothing new to report.
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