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Did My Motor Blow? Hope Not! Video and Sound.

 
Old 04-09-2019, 06:26 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by FatsWaller View Post
Yah, I don't get the negative responses in general either. An Agony Aunt once wrote "If you got nothing to say, don't say it". Equivalently, if it's not supposed to be helpful, why bother? And the belt: relatively easy to take off, not so much going back on if the one I did in my 08 Caddy was an example. You need a strong arm and good length breaker bar on the tensioner. An extra pair of hands helps a lot. Good luck getting your vette repaired.

Now, if you're a fan of "Hey everybody, watch this", check out out how to R+R a VW Beetle fan belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA
Heh, well neat trick. But having been a toolmaker for the past 5+ decades, and still possessing all my fingers, thumbs, and toes, I wouldn't try it.

The upside: You might save ten minutes.

The downside: You could lose a finger.






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Old 04-09-2019, 06:38 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Bruze View Post
Heh, well neat trick. But having been a toolmaker for the past 5+ decades, and still possessing all my fingers, thumbs, and toes, I wouldn't try it.

The upside: You might save ten minutes.

The downside: You could lose a finger.




That was a cool video. I had to keep my hands away from the monitor as I felt they were going to get sucked in that video. lol
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:39 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
This is what happened to mine several years ago when the little spindle that keeps the lifter wheel in place went sideways and it got stuck in the bore:

I don't feel so bad about my car after hearing that racket! lol
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:43 PM
  #124  
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Hope your surgery goes well and wish you a speedy recovery. The car will be fine once the shop is done. Is it possible that you are not holding oil volume but pressure shows? I don't have the dry sump in my GS as it is an automatic so I am not familiar with the drain and fill procedure. Is there any chance a seal ring on a tube or fitting was dislodged or cut and not actually giving true oil volume to keep the lifters saturated and pumped up? I cut an o ring seal on the filler tube from the oil pickup on a brand new LS 1 some time ago and it sounded the same. I had pressure but no volume. I replaced the o ring and it was able to get full volume and complete quiet after that. Just a thought. And again thank you for the help you gave me with my start up screen it gives me a smile every time I start the car.
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:22 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by ontime View Post
Hope your surgery goes well and wish you a speedy recovery. The car will be fine once the shop is done. Is it possible that you are not holding oil volume but pressure shows? I don't have the dry sump in my GS as it is an automatic so I am not familiar with the drain and fill procedure. Is there any chance a seal ring on a tube or fitting was dislodged or cut and not actually giving true oil volume to keep the lifters saturated and pumped up? I cut an o ring seal on the filler tube from the oil pickup on a brand new LS 1 some time ago and it sounded the same. I had pressure but no volume. I replaced the o ring and it was able to get full volume and complete quiet after that. Just a thought. And again thank you for the help you gave me with my start up screen it gives me a smile every time I start the car.
I have been thinking this from the very first moment and even mentioned it in one of my posts. Even showed a picture thru the little oil fill that doesn't look really wet in there. Nobody replied about it. I still find it hard to accept this. It is obviously a lifter making the noise but why? I don't know how you would go about this to see oil volume. Like I said earlier I noticed no difference in wetness looking in the heads right after I shut it off, you would think it would be saturated in there but I don't know much about motors and what it should look like in there or thru that hole I posted. This all happened one day after a oil change but it was done right, I know that because I did it, like always. That was my pleasure and happy to convert the files for you.

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Old 04-14-2019, 12:57 PM
  #126  
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I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.

Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:46 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by KurtsZ06 View Post
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.

Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
If that worked long-term, then you probably just had a gunk/varnish problem with the lifter or bore. It wouldn't work long-term if there was an actual physical problem with the lifter or bore, as is the case (apparently) with the OP.



I added STP to my previously-mentioned '63 Olds with the occasional sticky lifter -- and it made the problem worse.








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Old 04-14-2019, 02:44 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Bruze View Post
If that worked long-term, then you probably just had a gunk/varnish problem with the lifter or bore. It wouldn't work long-term if there was an actual physical problem with the lifter or bore, as is the case (apparently) with the OP.



I added STP to my previously-mentioned '63 Olds with the occasional sticky lifter -- and it made the problem worse.



Totally agree. I must have missed the part about a damaged bore or lifter. In my case it must have been some crud that blocked the port in the lifter.
STP .. we as teenagers used to call it engine honey, if that is the same as you used. Sure solved oil consumption and smoking exhaust. It probably also increased the oil viscosity to 60. Not good in an LS7.

Looking into the valve train through the breather and the picture shows dry, no oil. Sure sounds like plugged lifter, lifters. Nothing coming up the push rod.
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:27 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by KurtsZ06 View Post
Totally agree. I must have missed the part about a damaged bore or lifter. In my case it must have been some crud that blocked the port in the lifter.
STP .. we as teenagers used to call it engine honey, if that is the same as you used. Sure solved oil consumption and smoking exhaust. It probably also increased the oil viscosity to 60. Not good in an LS7.

Looking into the valve train through the breather and the picture shows dry, no oil. Sure sounds like plugged lifter, lifters. Nothing coming up the push rod.
Regarding the OP: We still don't know what exactly what is wrong with the lifter(s).

LOL, yes STP was the magic stuff back then. My best buddy's dad was a big believer in it, he used it in everything. If memory serves, the letters stood for "Specially Treated Petroleum." I quit using it after it made my Olds worse.

This is what the old cans looked like that we used:


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Old 04-15-2019, 03:49 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by KurtsZ06 View Post
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.

Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
If only it were this easy.

Originally Posted by Bruze View Post
Regarding the OP: We still don't know what exactly what is wrong with the lifter(s).

LOL, yes STP was the magic stuff back then. My best buddy's dad was a big believer in it, he used it in everything. If memory serves, the letters stood for "Specially Treated Petroleum." I quit using it after it made my Olds worse.

This is what the old cans looked like that we used:


And we won't know until May 14. Like I said earlier that is the shops earliest appointment. But as promised I will update the thread as soon as I know what's going on. So in the meantime the car will sit.
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:14 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Oh Boy View Post
If only it were this easy.


And we won't know until May 14. Like I said earlier that is the shops earliest appointment. But as promised I will update the thread as soon as I know what's going on. So in the meantime the car will sit.
Why would you not try the Seafoam suggestion? Car is sitting anyway, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to run the car for 15 or so minutes...not worth a try?
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:32 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by RobLo View Post
Why would you not try the Seafoam suggestion? Car is sitting anyway, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to run the car for 15 or so minutes...not worth a try?
I don't know, I'm kind of scared to run it. I don't want to make it worse by doing this, but imagine if this did work?
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:37 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by KurtsZ06 View Post
I had this exact same noise in my previous C6Z and it was 2 collapsed lifters. No codes thrown, ran almost the same as before the problem. I had done an oil change about 250 miles before the collapse.
Ive had experiences with collapsed lifters in years prior, an found the simplest approach is best taken first.
i bought a $8 can of Seafoam, added it to the sump ( I pulled out a pint first so not to overfill ), let the engine idle for 15 minutes and the lifter noise went away. Drained and replaced the oil, changed the filter and I was on my way.

Chevy dealer quoted $1800 for the fix.
What is the difference between what might be wrong with my lifters (assuming that is what it is) and a collapsed lifter?
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:39 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Oh Boy View Post
I don't know, I'm kind of scared to run it. I don't want to make it worse by doing this, but imagine if this did work?
Maybe someone else will jump in with an opinion...unless the noise got progressively louder after you started it, I don't know, I might try it, it would only be at idle, right? And you'd be monitoring your oil pressure. The curiosity would be killing me...
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:41 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by RobLo View Post
Maybe someone else will jump in with an opinion...unless the noise got progressively louder after you started it, I don't know, I might try it, it would only be at idle, right? And you'd be monitoring your oil pressure. The curiosity would be killing me...
Since I read that post it already is.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:17 PM
  #136  
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When I watched your video, it brought me back to this moment a couple years ago:

I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:




Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.

Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:33 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Oh Boy View Post
What is the difference between what might be wrong with my lifters (assuming that is what it is) and a collapsed lifter?
Look at the pictures of the lifter roller. That's what rides on the cam lobe. If the roller looks like that the cam lobe probably matches.
Until you verify oil flow (your comments re: dry in oil filler hole) I would not be running the engine.
Just me.

Last edited by ruxvette; 04-15-2019 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:53 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by njedwardz View Post
When I watched your video, it brought me back to this moment a couple years ago: https://youtu.be/4jjcYDmU_T0

I had around 60k miles on the car then.. We had seen some imperfection on the factory cam the year before when I did the first cam swap but elected not to pursue it further.. The lifter ended up VERY bad:




Amazingly, no motor damage (beyond the lifter and cam). Took the opportunity to go to a more aggressive cam and ported heads - I don't regret it! There's very little extra $ involved to upgrade your trunnions, heads, cam, springs, oil pump, etc, since all of it has to come out anyway.

Note that I drove the car less than 1 mile after I first heard this noise and ran it for < 30 minutes while diagnosing the issue.
it it is amazing you didnít have any internal damage. Thatís quite a chunk of lifter body missing. When I first installed a fresh rebuilt 396 in my C2, I was using roller rockers and lifters on a mild Comp cam. Less than 2000 miles and one of the rockers failed, needle bearings got into the lower half. They destroyed the cam, and two of the main bearings got scored. Total tear down and rebuild once again..

there certainly are similarities to your video and the OP. He is either in for a very minor issue or major $$$.

My suggestion with the Seafoam might be simplistic, but could instantly answer the question .. minor vs major. That Seafoam stuff is the best Iíve ever used in both cars and airplanes for thoroughly cleaning oil passages. Just be sure to thoroughly change the oil and filter after.

An interesting aside, back in the late Ď50s, my dad used to use diesel in the crankcase to clean out the engine. Heíd drain the oil, put a new filter cartridge into his 54 Ford truck and put back a quart over the 5 to fill the crankcase. Run it for 15 minutes and drain it out. Funny thing is heíd put the drained diesel back into his Cat D4. I eventually helped him rebuild the straight 6 in that truck. There wasnít one trace of sludge, anywhere. And thatís back when they used a high percentage of paraffin in the oils. Old techniques that die with time.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:10 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Oh Boy View Post
What is the difference between what might be wrong with my lifters (assuming that is what it is) and a collapsed lifter?
if indeed itís a lifter issue, itís either minor or major.

Minor: $ when you changed your oil, somehow the new oilís detergent loosened up some crud. That little piece of crud makes its way up to one or two of your jitters, blocking the tiny oil passage. Without oil, your lifter piston doesnít pressurize and make a ticking or clacking sound, very similar to what you hear in your video. Adding a strong solvent to the oil such as Seafoam will dissolve the crud and restore pressure to your lifter(s).

Major: $$$$. You have a damaged lifter ( s ). Body of lifter or roller is damaged, flattened. The lifter no longer rides smoothly over the cam lobe. 9 out of 10 times it scores the cam lobe mandating replacement of the camshaft. It involves thanking your engine apart down to removing the camshaft, which comes out the front of the engine. Radiator and ac condenser usually get pulled also. Itís a moderately expensive repair .. $1800 tp $ 2500 that Ive witnessed.

Frankly, Iíd take the easiest approach first. If you have oil pressure, then at least the moving assemblies are being lubricated.
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Old 04-16-2019, 02:02 PM
  #140  
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I started the car for the first time today since last week. I didn't sound as bad, motor still runs smooth but definitely still there. Is my mind playing tricks, probably so. So I said **** it and tried the Seafoam and let the car run for 10 minutes up to operating temp with out reving it once, just idle. No change. Before I started it I put a rag in the oil port on the valve cover
and soaked up that puddle of oil that sits in there. I checked it again after I shut it off and the puddle was back, so at least on that side I have oil flow and the gauge is reading strong oil pressure, never wavering so I guess that is good. So in essence nothing new to report.
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