Staring issue when warm
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Staring issue when warm
I have a 2013 427 less than 10K miles, but with a starting issue that has been getting progressively worse for three years. The dealer can’t figure it out and has changed the alternator, battery and starter (twice), but the problem still occurs. Here’s what happens. When the car is cold it starts up and runs great. Once it warms up at normal temperature if I turn the car off and try and start it within 30 minutes (while still warm) it acts as if the battery is weak. Sometimes a she’ll start, sometimes she won’t. Sometimes it starts but the traction control light will stay on. But whenever it cools off, it starts fine again. Today while warm it wouldn’t even turn over and when I tried it start the driver window would go down 1 inch and wouldn’t come up until car cool again. In other words, it seems something is draining off the electrical charge from the battery to the starter. Any ideas? Help!
Last edited by Randy Loewen; Aug 23, 2019 at 09:35 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
Perhaps a corvette only specialty shop can trouble shoot your problem. Try another dealer that has a reputation for having a good corvette mechanic. It sounded like a starter issue but you replaced it. A good mechanic if it is a short should find it. Put in the town and state where you live. If you live in Florida I know of an excellent mechanic in Jupiter. Good luck and tell us if they found the problem!
Last edited by enventr; Aug 24, 2019 at 09:57 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,467
Likes: 1,149
From: Wayne Township WI
Let's hope this isn't the dreaded connecting rod issue prevalent w/ some '12/'13 MY LS7s.
When engine's cold no problem starting; however, once hot hard/no starting's The symptom & clue.
That a dealer didn't recognize this & threw parts at it is SOP.
As suggested a solid Corvette specialist's needed.
This issue's well known w/ those who've insights re last couple MY LS7s.
Do a search on 'LS7 connecting rod problems' understanding WTH's happening, and why.
Here's a recent thread from Z06/ZR1 forum discussing issue: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-failure.html
When engine's cold no problem starting; however, once hot hard/no starting's The symptom & clue.
That a dealer didn't recognize this & threw parts at it is SOP.
As suggested a solid Corvette specialist's needed.
This issue's well known w/ those who've insights re last couple MY LS7s.
Do a search on 'LS7 connecting rod problems' understanding WTH's happening, and why.
Here's a recent thread from Z06/ZR1 forum discussing issue: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g-failure.html
Last edited by Landru; Aug 24, 2019 at 10:57 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 6,139
Likes: 1,962
From: Morris County New Jersey
There are a few different suggestions mentioned in this thread. May help with trouble shooting.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...oor-crank.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...oor-crank.html
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Easy fix, and its the ground cable that terminate to the frame, that needs a jumper to take the ground cable point all the way to the starter as well.
Hence positive wire (that is slightly under sized to start with for the LS7) goes all the way to the starter, then jumps up to the fuse box.
The ground goes to the frame and then has to run through the frame, to the motor, then to the starter. Throw in a little heat soak on the starter that its fighting that to start with, and the less than stellar ground back to the battery is doing you no favors.
Hence positive wire (that is slightly under sized to start with for the LS7) goes all the way to the starter, then jumps up to the fuse box.
The ground goes to the frame and then has to run through the frame, to the motor, then to the starter. Throw in a little heat soak on the starter that its fighting that to start with, and the less than stellar ground back to the battery is doing you no favors.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 4
Same issue here. Car has 15k miles and has had the issue since new. Blackstone oil changes show zero metals and titanium so I kind of eliminated the rod/bearing issue however, I have seen several members with the same issue and that ended up being the cause.
I had the cable replaced from the battery to the starter about 3 years and it seemed to resolve for about 6 months. Then the issue came back. Replaced the battery about a year ago and again short term solution.
I am getting ready for an oil change and was actually considering having the dealer drop the pan to see if there if there is any wear. Honestly do not know where to go from here, so I am interested to see what you find out.
I had the cable replaced from the battery to the starter about 3 years and it seemed to resolve for about 6 months. Then the issue came back. Replaced the battery about a year ago and again short term solution.
I am getting ready for an oil change and was actually considering having the dealer drop the pan to see if there if there is any wear. Honestly do not know where to go from here, so I am interested to see what you find out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,990
Likes: 346
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
It's none of these things.
After enough heat cycles the bakelite endcap on the solenoid cracks and the main stud that the battery wire attaches to gets loose like a tooth ready to fall out. Replace the starter solenoid and you'll be good for a while.
When you replaced the cable you tightened the nut on the stud. That lasts a short period of time and it happens again.
There are endless discussions on these forums about wrapping the starter, wrapping the solenoid, adding another wire from the block to the frame or from the alternator to the fusebox, removing one from the starter so you can double nut it. None of that lasts. The bakelite is going to get hot and the large stud is going to become loose.
Ultimately, I fixed it by going with a Powermaster starter which has no bakelite endcap on the solenoid and moves the wires further away from the exhaust.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-videos.html
After enough heat cycles the bakelite endcap on the solenoid cracks and the main stud that the battery wire attaches to gets loose like a tooth ready to fall out. Replace the starter solenoid and you'll be good for a while.
When you replaced the cable you tightened the nut on the stud. That lasts a short period of time and it happens again.
There are endless discussions on these forums about wrapping the starter, wrapping the solenoid, adding another wire from the block to the frame or from the alternator to the fusebox, removing one from the starter so you can double nut it. None of that lasts. The bakelite is going to get hot and the large stud is going to become loose.
Ultimately, I fixed it by going with a Powermaster starter which has no bakelite endcap on the solenoid and moves the wires further away from the exhaust.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-videos.html
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