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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 01:48 PM
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Default No antiseize on plug threads

Just learned something, thought I would share. I am contemplating doing the plugs and wires in the spring on my 2006 base (47500 miles). Back in the old days, I put antiseize on plug threads to help them seat and make it easier to remove. With the new technology and plug design this isn't recommended. The manufacturer coats the threads with antiseize from the factory.

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Is it OK to put anti seize on spark plugs?
AC Delco spark plugs should be installed dry. Do NOT use any type of anti-seizelubricant on spark plugthreads. Anti-seizelubricants decrease the amount of friction between the threads, resulting in over tightening. That can cause the spark plug to move too far into the combustion chamber (in crush washer applications).Jun 24, 2017

Last edited by Trebor; Dec 13, 2019 at 01:51 PM.
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Dec 14, 2019, 11:00 PM
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If you are a real car guy......and not someone who goes to stealers.....someone who throws their cars up on jack stands in 15 minutes or less......someone who is not afraid to tackle mechanical problems........Someone who was born before 1950......Then you know in your mind and in your heart what you can do and what you cant do on a car. No forum is going to tell you otherwise. .....Have a nice Christmas everyone.....
Old Dec 13, 2019 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Trebor
Just learned something, thought I would share. I am contemplating doing the plugs and wires in the spring on my 2006 base (47500 miles). Back in the old days, I put antiseize on plug threads to help them seat and make it easier to remove. With the new technology and plug design this isn't recommended. The manufacturer coats the threads with antiseize from the factory.

PEOPLE ALSO ASK
Is it OK to put anti seize on spark plugs?
AC Delco spark plugs should be installed dry. Do NOT use any type of anti-seizelubricant on spark plugthreads. Anti-seizelubricants decrease the amount of friction between the threads, resulting in over tightening. That can cause the spark plug to move too far into the combustion chamber (in crush washer applications).Jun 24, 2017
Is it just me thinking these two statements are inconsistent and contradictory?

Last edited by FatsWaller; Dec 13, 2019 at 04:47 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FatsWaller
Is it just me thinking these two statements are inconsistent and contradictory?
The plugs that have the chrome/shiny threaded area have been treated by the manufacturer. Adding antiseize could cause issues.

Read this for example:
https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

Last edited by Trebor; Dec 13, 2019 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 05:21 PM
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Being a machinist one who makes threads everyday, I've been using never seize on my plug threads for many many years. Spark plugs are steel threads your engine head is aluminum two dissimilar metals that expand and contract differently, over thousands of heat Cycles your spark plugs without anti-seize most likely will seize themselves to the aluminum head.

Last edited by Don-Vette; Dec 13, 2019 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
Being a machinist one who makes threads everyday, I've been using never seize on my plug threads for many many years. Spark plugs are steel threads your engine head is aluminum two dissimilar metals that expand and contract differently, over thousands of heat Cycles your spark plugs without anti-seize most likely will seize themselves to the aluminum head.
There is truth to this.

I've seen a lot of these pre coated spark plugs, I still add antiseize. The real trick is not to overtighten your plugs! Finger tight, then a quarter turn. If it dries out and gets a little stiffer, no big deal because you didnt go nuts with the torque from the get go. The coated ones are likely a godsend for a monkey with an impact gun, but irrelevant if you do things properly.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 05:37 PM
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AC Delco and NGK plugs, along with other brands, come with a sliver or chrome coating. This coating provides corrosion resistance and acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. Adding anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant and increase torque values or cause spark plug threads to break. I would follow the manufactures recommendation.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; Dec 13, 2019 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 06:26 PM
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I put a tiny amount of engine oil on the upper portion of the thread using a cue tip.

Also, using a cue tip, I put a small amount of dielectric grease on the inner boot just up to the actual contact in the boot. This keeps the boot from sticking to the plug over time.

M...
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 06:32 PM
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If I remember right the GM torque spec for spark plugs on LS-2 and LS-3 engines is 28 Ft Lbs.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 06:37 PM
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I use anti-seize on plugs, too. I have had to deal with difficult plug removals in the past and that especially sucks on OHC engines. Never again.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 06:52 PM
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Everything in moderation, anti seize and torque.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 07:20 PM
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I also was told to apply a drop or two of Mobil 1 on the spark plug threads instead of anti seize.......
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 07:32 PM
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I apply just a very light coating of wheel bearing grease to the plug threads.

I used to use anti-seize compound, but notice that over time, it just gets very hard ... so I stopped using it.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
Being a machinist one who makes threads everyday, I've been using never seize on my plug threads for many many years. Spark plugs are steel threads your engine head is aluminum two dissimilar metals that expand and contract differently, over thousands of heat Cycles your spark plugs without anti-seize most likely will seize themselves to the aluminum head.

and I'm a tool and die maker and you never put any anti seize compounds on the threads of spark plugs
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 09:21 PM
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I have put anti seize on every spark plug I have ever changed and never had an issue. Also never had an issue removing them at a later date thanks to the anti seize.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 09:26 PM
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Same for NGK, they have a warning to not use antisieze.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cadyshac
Everything in moderation, anti seize and torque.

Don't overthink it.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Trebor
Just learned something, thought I would share. I am contemplating doing the plugs and wires in the spring on my 2006 base (47500 miles). Back in the old days, I put antiseize on plug threads to help them seat and make it easier to remove. With the new technology and plug design this isn't recommended. The manufacturer coats the threads with antiseize from the factory.

PEOPLE ALSO ASK
Is it OK to put anti seize on spark plugs?
AC Delco spark plugs should be installed dry. Do NOT use any type of anti-seizelubricant on spark plugthreads. Anti-seizelubricants decrease the amount of friction between the threads, resulting in over tightening. That can cause the spark plug to move too far into the combustion chamber (in crush washer applications).Jun 24, 2017
Assuming your engine is stock or only mildly modded, the OEM AC 41-110 is the correct heat range and should be good for 100K miles. Pulling them and inspecting them at 47K miles to check for missing iridium tips and verify a .040 gap exists is still prudent. You are correct to avoid anti seize or any type of lubricant. I really wouldn't bother changing plug wires, since they don't get much better than the OEM wires. I'm still using the originals from the factory at 159K miles and my latest scans show no misfires at any RPM from 500 to 6800.

BTW Don't change plugs on a hot engine. If you can't avoid it at the time, loosen them and re-torque at the first opportunity with a cold engine. The rate of thermal expansion of aluminum is almost exactly 3 times as great as steel, so a cold plug inserted into a hot engine will not have the correct torque value.


Originally Posted by FAUEE
There is truth to this.

I've seen a lot of these pre coated spark plugs, I still add antiseize. The real trick is not to overtighten your plugs! Finger tight, then a quarter turn. If it dries out and gets a little stiffer, no big deal because you didnt go nuts with the torque from the get go. The coated ones are likely a godsend for a monkey with an impact gun, but irrelevant if you do things properly.
I prefer using a torque wrench. I never got my fingers calibrated well enough to know when an extra quarter turn would be just right.

Originally Posted by cmonkey713;1600644461[color=#e74c3c
]If I remember right the GM torque spec for spark plugs on LS-2 and LS-3 engines is 28 Ft Lbs[/color].
We all try to remember correctly, but sometimes we miss it. The correct torque per the service manual is 11 lbs ft. Yeah I know, it sounded a little low to me too, but then again it is an aluminum head and the plugs have no crush washer.
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Old Dec 13, 2019 | 11:37 PM
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If the plugs are torqued to the correct specification there will be no problem removing them.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cmonkey713
If I remember right the GM torque spec for spark plugs on LS-2 and LS-3 engines is 28 Ft Lbs.
Hell no, and only 11ft lbs.
And for the love of god, don't try to pull the plugs if the heads are hot since this will cause the spark plug channels to strip out.

My take, if you are going to install the plugs ,and not pull them for the 100K they are good for, don't need to add any anti seize to the new plugs.

Myself, I pull the plugs to clean them of the fuel additives that will build up on the plugs/ check the gaps around every 30K (thoughout the 100k life of the plugs), so I use a touch of anti seize on the plugs went putting them back in.

As for spark plug wires, use the tool to remove them, since I have seen way to many wire destroyed by someone trying to yank them off the first time instead. Hence it like GM glues them on, and until you get the boots greased with dielectric grease on the reinstall, then at still a monster to get off without damaging.

As for new OEM plugs and wire, the oem wires and plugs do have a resistance to them to help cut down on RF noise through the system/ecm. The ecm controls the voltage on the alternator, and some aftermarket plugs and wires that cause a lot of RF feed back through the coils to the ECM/are going to cause low voltage problems out of the alternator.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
Being a machinist one who makes threads everyday, I've been using never seize on my plug threads for many many years. Spark plugs are steel threads your engine head is aluminum two dissimilar metals that expand and contract differently, over thousands of heat Cycles your spark plugs without anti-seize most likely will seize themselves to the aluminum head.
This sounds right to me.
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