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Anybody know the difference between a GM Clutch Master Cylinders GM 19331708 and GM 19331709. The "09" version seems to cost just a bit more. I want to replace the master cylinder in my 2005 Z51 MN6.
GM 19331709 is the replacement from the ZR1 and the one you should go with, it has the opaque (black) reservoir. This is the one they use when replacing the under warranty.
Last edited by BigBlok502; Nov 22, 2020 at 08:31 AM.
Reason: Added the word "black."
GM 19331709 is the replacement from the ZR1 and the one you should go with, it has the opaque reservoir. This is the one they use when replacing the under warranty.
The opaque version is the old version that fails, black is the new replacement.
whats interesting is the 08 version is also the black reservoir now. I’m guessing they don’t sell the bad version anymore and they are both the same price and appear identical.
borh those part numbers are the new and replacement for the ones that failed only difference is year when you type them in. Below 2008 will pull the the 08 part up, 09 and up pull the 09 part number up. Don’t think there is any difference in the two 🤷🏻♂️ either way both part numbers would be the replacement not the recalled version. It’s no longer produced or for sale commercially
The opaque version is the old version that fails, black is the new replacement.
Black is opaque. The early style is translucent, which allows you to see the fluid level. Regardless, I added the word "black" to my post to avoid confusion.
Black is opaque. The early style is translucent, which allows you to see the fluid level. Regardless, I added the word "black" to my post to avoid confusion.
valid lol
I think the part number stuff is most confusing tbh, took me a second to figure out what the deal was
Black is opaque. The early style is translucent, which allows you to see the fluid level. Regardless, I added the word "black" to my post to avoid confusion.
I've replaced mine with the new black version but miss being able to see the fluid level and clarity. Is there any reason to not switch back to the opaque version?
I've replaced mine with the new black version but miss being able to see the fluid level and clarity. Is there any reason to not switch back to the opaque version?
I've replaced mine with the new black version but miss being able to see the fluid level and clarity. Is there any reason to not switch back to the opaque version?
Originally Posted by 73DBG
Yeah the opaque unit is the one that fails
Any reason you can’t simply swap the clear reservoir over to the new master cylinder?
Any reason you can’t simply swap the clear reservoir over to the new master cylinder?
Exactly - that's what I was wondering. Why not just suck the fluid out of the new black reservoir, swap the clear one in, fill with fluid - no worries about needing to bleed anything?
Just a lot easier to see when the fluid is clean using the Ranger method with a clear reservoir. With the black one I feel like I am just looking into a black pit.
Thank you, I usually use Prestone 3/4 Brake fluid, but I will change to a "just" DOT 4 fluid. This is a good point .... Spend the bucks and get the correct "stuff" and you will have fewer expensive problems.
Check out this old thread, specifically post #3 where Dano523 explains the problem and the changes in the master cylinder. Also, to be clear (pun intended,) the new black reservoir is opaque and you cannot see the fluid level. The old style is translucent, white, and you can see the fluid level.
Thank you, I usually use Prestone 3/4 Brake fluid, but I will change to a "just" DOT 4 fluid. This is a good point .... Spend the bucks and get the correct "stuff" and you will have fewer expensive problems.
If you really want to protect the clutch system just spend the money on Castrol SRF racing fluid and never look back 👌🏻
What is the consensus with going with a Tick master cylinder rather than the GM?
I know it can have its own issues it definitely flows a good bit more fluid and a higher flowing slave helps its adjustable so it’s not a replace and it’s all good you’ll need to make adjustments. I didn’t get it because of that reason and I have zero intentions of launching the car.
Any reason you can’t simply swap the clear reservoir over to the new master cylinder?
I swapped the MC out on my ZR1 (under warranty at my own shop). I kept the white reservoir & returned the old MC with the black reservoir. No problems there.
Just something to think about, at the time there was a TSB that covered the replacement, with the different part numbers. Your best bet is to call the dealer parts dept, give them the last 8 of your VIN and let them confirm the correct part number you need.