When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I use the 3500 model for my C6, C2 and Miata, with supplied rubber blocks (no pucks). I store the QJ under the middle of my C2, which has enough ground clearance for that.
I received a set of 5000TL a few days ago and have not assembled them yet.Read a post in the past(that I can't find now)concerning leaks at the fittings.Someone posted using Blue Monster thread tape during assembly to prevent any leaks so I purchased some before reading the manual.After reading the instructions to assemble saw where it advises not to use thread tape.My question is what everyone seems to be using?Thread tape or the liquid sealer that comes with the jacks?
I received a set of 5000TL a few days ago and have not assembled them yet.Read a post in the past(that I can't find now)concerning leaks at the fittings.Someone posted using Blue Monster thread tape during assembly to prevent any leaks so I purchased some before reading the manual.After reading the instructions to assemble saw where it advises not to use thread tape.My question is what everyone seems to be using?Thread tape or the liquid sealer that comes with the jacks?
I bought my Quick Jack a few years ago and the kit came with Teflon tape for the fittings and I have had no leaks since I put them together.
I received a set of 5000TL a few days ago and have not assembled them yet.Read a post in the past(that I can't find now)concerning leaks at the fittings.Someone posted using Blue Monster thread tape during assembly to prevent any leaks so I purchased some before reading the manual.After reading the instructions to assemble saw where it advises not to use thread tape.My question is what everyone seems to be using?Thread tape or the liquid sealer that comes with the jacks?
If yours is the same as mine, it came with an orange bottle of thread sealant (I think it was orange). Anyway, it worked well on its own w/o tape. I let it set for a day before pressurizing the system. If any of the fittings have an O-ring on their seat then no sealant is needed. I do a lot of pipe fitting for work and it's common to use a couple wraps of tape (for body) and sealant over that. This is more so for pipe fittings that may have a looser thread fit.
My QJ 5000slx came in a little over a week ago and I've raised my Vette twice(did trans and diff fluid, then drove and raised again to check levels) and I also raised my 2000 Tacoma 4wd with some home made 6x6 risers(they work just like the riser that QJ sells). I put a jack stand under the QJ for add insurance if I'm actually under the car but I see plenty of folks that don't.
The video of the 5000slx lifting 20k lbs sold me (spoiler alert, they didn't fail):
Just got my new Quickjack operational today and I really like it. I've been working on my own cars for almost 50 years and I don't know how I got along without this thing!
Just got my new Quickjack operational today and I really like it. I've been working on my own cars for almost 50 years and I don't know how I got along without this thing!
My QJ 5000slx came in a little over a week ago and I've raised my Vette twice(did trans and diff fluid, then drove and raised again to check levels) and I also raised my 2000 Tacoma 4wd with some home made 6x6 risers(they work just like the riser that QJ sells). I put a jack stand under the QJ for add insurance if I'm actually under the car but I see plenty of folks that don't.
Very stable. The ends of the 6x6's are cut very square/true with a miter saw. There would come a point with the height where the 6x6's would begin to feel less stable but these 10" risers seem very safe to me. I have the QJ rubber riser blocks and the 6x6's are better IMO.
I purchased from Quick jack Open Box 7000 for 1200.00 they were tested before shipping look brand new actually great purchase and full warranty. Check out the open box site.
1. The spacing where the blocks sit is not right for a C6 - it's always a little miss trying to hit the jacking points
2. You really need to make sure the jack assemblies are damn near dead parallel otherwise you can get some twisting on the way up. Wish they had simple spacer rods to ensure parallel, but i could make those too.
Otherwise clearance is money, if you're on the weak side, I could see them being a handful to shove around/wall mount.
1. The spacing where the blocks sit is not right for a C6 - it's always a little miss trying to hit the jacking points
2. You really need to make sure the jack assemblies are damn near dead parallel otherwise you can get some twisting on the way up. Wish they had simple spacer rods to ensure parallel, but i could make those too.
Otherwise clearance is money, if you're on the weak side, I could see them being a handful to shove around/wall mount.
I haven't even tried mine yet set them up and hung them on wall. But interesting of what you said. Have you tried maybe using a wood 4x4?
Very stable. The ends of the 6x6's are cut very square/true with a miter saw. There would come a point with the height where the 6x6's would begin to feel less stable but these 10" risers seem very safe to me. I have the QJ rubber riser blocks and the 6x6's are better IMO.
Could you explain the wood please? I'm thinking of using wood as well with my Tacoma, but looking for ideas also for vette
I've had them almost a year and no issues.
