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Probably wont have much luck here in the General Section, I'd try the Tech/Performance section. Really though it comes down to your goals and needs. I'd talk to your tuner and see what direction he would recomend. Just looking at the profiles the second one looks pretty small for an LS3, what manufacturer? The first one might not be a bad choice but again, depending on your goals I'd shop around with a few companies and see what they recommend. Texas Speed, BTR, Cam Motion, GPI... tons of good options out there not to hone in on one that will be perfect for what you hope to achieve. Also might help to list your current mods.
Honestly, you're probably going to see a 20-30ish WHP plus or minus a few WHP between the two.
The 220/228 .581/.588 116 would be extremely mild on the ls3.
The stock ls3 cam is a 204/211 .551/.525 117.
What are your goals with the car? Just want a cam to have a cam? Race the car? If so how (drag racing, circuit, auto x), what kind of power band are you wanting from the car?
Is the car automatic or manual? The smaller one would be pretty friendly on the stock torque converter, for the larger one you're going to need a converter if it's auto.
Still a pretty big difference between the stock LS3 cam and the 220/228 cam
If the car is mostly a 'street' driven car, I would opt for the 220/228 cam ... also, it would be easier to tune than the bigger 230/238 cam
Honesty the 230/238 he mentioned isnt even that radical in LS3 terms... I run a BTR stage 2 225/238 .620/.605 113 and its pretty mild in all honesty (with a stock convertor I should add). 230/238 is a little bigger but not that much that I'd say it would be hard to tune or not street friendly. Again though it all depends on the OPs goals... for the amount of work involved in swapping cams on a C6 I would do it once do it right and wouldnt waste my time on a 220/228. Also OP: pro tip, spend the extra money/time and do new lifters... dont make the same mistake I did.
Still a pretty big difference between the stock LS3 cam and the 220/228 cam
If the car is mostly a 'street' driven car, I would opt for the 220/228 cam ... also, it would be easier to tune than the bigger 230/238 cam
I know it's a decent difference between a stock cam. But in terms of what's available, the 220/228 is tiny for the LS3.
The BTR Ls1/2 stage 3 is a 231/244 112.5+2.5 That's a pretty simple cam and fairly streetable on a 5.7 the larger 6.2 would have no issues with something in that size.
A 230/238 isn't big. Anyone who can tune would have no issue doing that on an LS3. If they can't dial in a 230/238 they shouldn't be touching any ls car.
I've tuned plenty of 23x/24x split cams on street-driven ls3 stuff.
Ls3 with larger cams are usually upper 230s with a 25x exhaust.
Great info guys, I daily the car on occasion and 230 @ .050 would be the largest I'd put in it. The car is a manual 6 with a Monster LT1-S twin clutch, Trick Flow Gen X 255 heads, ported Katech throttle body and AFE Pfadt 1 7/8 Tri Y headers with 3" exhaust to 2.5" Flowmasters. Also considering the Spinmonster cam
The smaller cam you mentioned wouldn't be worth the time, trouble, and expense that a cam swap entails. The bigger one has more overlap than I'd want to fool with. Been there, done that, won't do it again. Cam Motion, BTR, and Tx Speed all have offerings in the range of 5 degrees of overlap or less. Spin's cam fits in there too.
When you set the cruise control at 65 mph in 6th gear and you can tell whether you're going into or with the wind by how much you car is bucking, your cam has too much overlap in my book. Not saying something like that is bad....just not for me. Some guys don't think twice about it and just shift down a gear.
The way you're set up, you don't need a bigger ill-mannered cam to make some really good power. I'm set up similar to you and touched 500 rwhp with a 0 overlap cam. On a level road, it will idle smoothy in 6th gear at 38mph. That may not matter to some. Matters to me.
Here is a video and dyno sheet from Bigron's install of a 230/234. There is so much tuner hate out there spreading misinfo so I thought it would help you decide and weed out the BS.
Driveability which is the result of keeping overlap really low at 4 degrees
Dyno sheet showing the Tq curve and power up to 7000rpm. Rumors that it falls on its face after 6000 are false:
After ported intake and final tuning 499/459:
Anyone providing cam specs for their guess at a cam should certainly provide real actual results. I have numerous dyno sheets for installs but it would be biased.
I wouldn't call this cam max effort by any extent and it was designed to drive great. It does. Just sharing factual results from those who installed it.
Someone called texas speed to have them grind the 230/234 and was told those specs make no sense. Experts abound.
You can't debate the number of people who actually installed it and got awesome results.
I would go with the smaller cam. It will be easier to tune, easier to drive, and much less stress on the valve train with the lower lift (although cam lobe shape has a big impact on longevity). The bigger cam will likely have a more radical idle/lope and will likely have more power in the upper rpm range. But I don't thing the gain is worth the trade off in driveability.
Great info guys, I daily the car on occasion and 230 @ .050 would be the largest I'd put in it. The car is a manual 6 with a Monster LT1-S twin clutch, Trick Flow Gen X 255 heads, ported Katech throttle body and AFE Pfadt 1 7/8 Tri Y headers with 3" exhaust to 2.5" Flowmasters. Also considering the Spinmonster cam
@jjmk1, with the specs above a CAM would have been a natural choice when changing heads.
The smaller cam you mentioned wouldn't be worth the time, trouble, and expense that a cam swap entails. The bigger one has more overlap than I'd want to fool with. Been there, done that, won't do it again. Cam Motion, BTR, and Tx Speed all have offerings in the range of 5 degrees of overlap or less. Spin's cam fits in there too.
When you set the cruise control at 65 mph in 6th gear and you can tell whether you're going into or with the wind by how much you car is bucking, your cam has too much overlap in my book. Not saying something like that is bad....just not for me. Some guys don't think twice about it and just shift down a gear.
The way you're set up, you don't need a bigger ill-mannered cam to make some really good power. I'm set up similar to you and touched 500 rwhp with a 0 overlap cam. On a level road, it will idle smoothy in 6th gear at 38mph. That may not matter to some. Matters to me.
On my set up (BTR road race cam) I don’t even think about 6th gear until about 85.
On my set up (BTR road race cam) I don’t even think about 6th gear until about 85.
I'm going to bet that you knew what you were getting into when you ordered the cam. Lots of folks really have no idea what to expect when they decide they want to do a cam swap. I went from hotrodding Gen 1 small and big block Chevies to supercharged LS truck engines and then to LS3's. Big changes there. I made the mistake of believing the little dude at the speed shop knew his ****. That was in late 2008. "This mild LS3 cam with 10 degrees of overlap will drive just like stock because our tuner is a genius". Yeah, right. Absolutely hated that thing. The car show crowd and young imbeciles loved it though. It was an expensive mistake that I learned from.
You can make an expensive mistake by going too small on the cam too. It's not worth the time, trouble, and money to install an itty-bitty cam. If you're installing a cam to make more power, at least find one that is capable of helping make decent power. Or save that money and just stick to bolt ons.
Personally, for a street driven car, I would avoid a cam that is in the plus (+) overlap numbers ... such as the 230/238 cam
Just my opinion
Note .. You will notice that only duration and LSA effect the Overlap number of a cam .. Lift does not.
Overlap has a Big Big effect on the overall 'street and idle manners' (drivability) of the cam
... However, in a race car, nobody gives a **** about the 'drivability' of the cam .. is your C6 a race car ?
Hi, genuine question not trying to give you a hard time. Have you actually driven a properly tuned cam with 10-20 positive overlap? I can assure you they drive very similar to a small cam including very similar power down low. They can be driven daily no problem and can be tuned to idle smooth.
There seems to be a lot of discussion from people who have no experience with big cams. LS3 engines respond and drive very well with a large camshaft.