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I took the door panels off my 2005 and I don’t understand something. The Bose speaker in the door has what looks like a heat sink on the front of it. Also, there are 4 wires in the connector to the speaker. Is this piece an amp? I have read the Bose amp is at the passenger feet. I didn’t pull the carpet back yet. What I’m reading and seeing doesn’t make sense. Are there 2 amps? One behind the glovebox and the other mounted to the speaker? Since there are 4 wires to the speaker, it would seem that is an amp. 2 wires for power and 2 for speaker signal. Did they change at some point and my 2005 is different than other years? Is the unit on the speaker a crossover unit? Signal comes in and higher frequency goes out to the tweeter unit? Now that I think more, that probably makes sense.
Yes, those are amps. If you intend on replacing the factory stereo and keeping the Bose speakers in the future, you will need to get a harness so you dont hear static and feedback because of those built in amps.
Where do you get a good wiring diagram? Would it be in a service manual? Is there a service manual that covers thing like this in detail?
Here you go! Page 120 of 145 for the Bose Premium diagram. 2005 wiring diagram attached below.
Here is what I have done to my 05 Bose System - the plan is to do a complete HU along with my BA components and RE Audio 10's with my Sundowner amps - just haven't decided to tackle it yet. But in the interim and without breaking the bank the changes mentioned below have made the Bose system a lot better and bearable to listen to. I did this a while back but you should still be able to find something comparable. You can buy the GM speaker connections that leaves all the wiring OEM but I can't find where I ordered them from.
Hope this helps,
BMF
- Disconnected the Front Speaker on the dash (this made a noticeable difference)
Replaced the small door speakers with JL Audio - C2 350x Coaxial
Replaced the Rear Speakers with JL Audio - C2 525x Coaxial
Earlier C6's had separate individual amps connected to the lower door woofers. At some point they changed it and the passenger footwell amp handled power for all the speakers including the door woofers. Not sure what year they made the switch.
Here you go! Page 120 of 145 for the Bose Premium diagram. 2005 wiring diagram attached below.
Here is what I have done to my 05 Bose System - the plan is to do a complete HU along with my BA components and RE Audio 10's with my Sundowner amps - just haven't decided to tackle it yet. But in the interim and without breaking the bank the changes mentioned below have made the Bose system a lot better and bearable to listen to. I did this a while back but you should still be able to find something comparable. You can buy the GM speaker connections that leaves all the wiring OEM but I can't find where I ordered them from.
Hope this helps,
BMF
- Disconnected the Front Speaker on the dash (this made a noticeable difference)
Replaced the small door speakers with JL Audio - C2 350x Coaxial
Replaced the Rear Speakers with JL Audio - C2 525x Coaxial
this is what I was thinking about doing. The shop I went to said the C2s were a little power hungry and might need a bigger amp. Do you find that to be true?
this is what I was thinking about doing. The shop I went to said the C2s were a little power hungry and might need a bigger amp. Do you find that to be true?
Pretty much every aftermarket speaker will have lower sensitive than an oem speaker, making it require more power for a given volume. You get a stiffer suspension for better cone control, but it takes more power to move it.
this is what I was thinking about doing. The shop I went to said the C2s were a little power hungry and might need a bigger amp. Do you find that to be true?
The amp seems to drive them ok and they sound 100x better than the old 17+ year old OEM speakers. Don't get me wrong, the whole system needs to be replaced, from the HU, amp, drivers but like I said this upgrades the OEM system without breaking the bank and definitely sounds better.
Yes, those are amps. If you intend on replacing the factory stereo and keeping the Bose speakers in the future, you will need to get a harness so you dont hear static and feedback because of those built in amps.
If you replace the head unit, why would you then get static?
If you replace the head unit, why would you then get static?
If you get a new head unit, you want to get the correct wiring harness interface. The correct interface will convert the signal from your head units speaker wires and send a pre-amp signal to your cars amps including the door woofer amps. Doing something other then sending a pre-amp signal, could introduce unwanted noise into your system.
If you get a new head unit, you want to get the correct wiring harness interface. The correct interface will convert the signal from your head units speaker wires and send a pre-amp signal to your cars amps including the door woofer amps. Doing something other then sending a pre-amp signal, could introduce unwanted noise into your system.
I installed a Kenwood DMX906S from Crutchfield and RP5-GM11 with their ready made harness into my 2008 with the Bose system and left the Bose amplifier as is. I don't have any static at all. Did the RP5-GM11 prevent that from happening?
I installed a Kenwood DMX906S from Crutchfield and RP5-GM11 with their ready made harness into my 2008 with the Bose system and left the Bose amplifier as is. I don't have any static at all. Did the RP5-GM11 prevent that from happening?
The RP5-GM11 is the correct wiring harness/interface for the C6. So yes, if installed properly, everything should work as it should with no static. The RP5-GM11 is compatible with both factory amplified systems and non amplified systems, so you do need to follow the directions for proper install.
I've had it for a good while and just wanted to know if the RP5-GM11 is what eliminated the static. Sounds great to me. Installed front and rear cameras. My FM reception is not very good. I live on the fringe area for the classic rock station that I tune to. I have an Apple iPhone so that I can use Apple CarPlay. I have a bunch of cd's of the music that I prefer. I put all of the cd's on my computer, then uploaded to my iPhone. Every time that I get into the car, the iPhone connects to the Kenwood and I have music. Bought a bluetooth amplifier for my garage and it works the same way with my iPhone.
If leaving the Bose amp and thumpers in play, then the speakers that you want that have the same sensitivity as the stock speakers , will be the kicker CS speakers.
Hence 3.5's in the doors, 5.25" in the rears. This will give the highs a cleaner/crisper high since the CS do come with actual tweeters, and the since the rears will have tweeters as well, better infill and a little more mid base in the back as well. https://www.kicker.com/cs-series
Now back to the Bose amp, and only the front 3.5"s are stereo channel out of the amp, while the rest of the speakers are mono for fill instead.
So front center dash speaker is mono channel, the door thumpers, as well as the rear speakers mono channel as well; for fill alone.
Hence got no Highs, got no Lows, must be Bose.
Dano, you're saying to leave the larger Bose speaker in the door and replace the 3.5's in the doors the 5.25's in the rear with the same size CS 4-ohm, coaxial speakers.
Dano, you're saying to leave the larger Bose speaker in the door and replace the 3.5's in the doors the 5.25's in the rear with the same size CS 4-ohm, coaxial speakers.
Here you go! Page 120 of 145 for the Bose Premium diagram. 2005 wiring diagram attached below.
Here is what I have done to my 05 Bose System - the plan is to do a complete HU along with my BA components and RE Audio 10's with my Sundowner amps - just haven't decided to tackle it yet. But in the interim and without breaking the bank the changes mentioned below have made the Bose system a lot better and bearable to listen to. I did this a while back but you should still be able to find something comparable. You can buy the GM speaker connections that leaves all the wiring OEM but I can't find where I ordered them from.
Hope this helps,
BMF
- Disconnected the Front Speaker on the dash (this made a noticeable difference)
Replaced the small door speakers with JL Audio - C2 350x Coaxial
Replaced the Rear Speakers with JL Audio - C2 525x Coaxial
I just traded my 2005 for a 2008. Any chance you have a 2008 wiring diagram?
Both the Kicker CS and JL Audio 3.5 in speakers have + and - connections. The Bose speakers have an Ant Signal, Battery, +, - and GND connections. I would think that you would only connect the + and - to the speakers. Do you have to do anything special with the other three wires or just leave them in the OEM connector and stow it? Are either of these speakers superior to the other with the exception of the pricing?
Both the Kicker CS and JL Audio 3.5 in speakers have + and - connections. The Bose speakers have an Ant Signal, Battery, +, - and GND connections. I would think that you would only connect the + and - to the speakers. Do you have to do anything special with the other three wires or just leave them in the OEM connector and stow it? Are either of these speakers superior to the other with the exception of the pricing?
The upper door speakers have 2 wires going to them. Very easy to replace the upper door speakers and the rear 5.25" speakers.
06-21-2022, 03:17 PM
Bose door woofer question 2005
