When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
its my understanding the RCDLR handles some misc radio functions, tpms function etc.. im struggling to find any wiring issues, I checked both splice packs in the class 2 circuit, misc continuity tests etc.
Ive double triple check fuse #33, been through that thread also but am confused with the diagram picture attached below, ive been at this for 3 days and am mentally exhausted 😩 should I be checking these as individual wires for example pin 14 from the DLC to pin 19 to the bcm for connector X2?
Main GM land bus, hence from obdII port to BCM, then BCM out through the other main modules, with ECM end of line.
Now out of the module (say the BCM), you have serial 2 bus to other items.
JX208 is the splice block to the left of the Bose amp/left of the BCM. IN the below photo, go left of the BCM, second row of screws on the BCM amp, and you will see the silver clip of the JX208 splice block where it clipped to the plastic. So just pull up to unclip it, and will have splice block in hand.
Keyless and tire monitor are one and the same, being the RCDLR above the radio in the dash. Since you have to pull the center console and center bezel to get to both of these, would check to make sure you not only have power on the connectors, but good ground as well. Note, the grounds also share a splice block and it will be to the right of the BCM, then it main wire out of that block to the chassic at the right hand side of the BCM as well.
Next on the list, it may be the serial port bus wires, but no power to the modules instead.
As for JX208 splice block, its to the left of the dash cluster, and would need to pull the cluster out to get it.
So would start by cleaning the 2 Blue BCM connectors, as well as the Red main power connector (spray electrial cleaner on both the pins and connector sockets with them pulled off the BCM).
Next would pull the splice blocks to give it a good cleaning as well. Leave the wires in the block, just give it a good douching with cleaner, and push the wire in more to get them to clean to clips in the splice block.
Seat module is under the seat, with it clipped to the seat pad suport wires. Could be a problem up line, but would dare to bank that its the power connector at the module that its wires are cracked/split. Hence GM short leashed that wire, and as you get in and out of the seat, it flexes the wires to cause them to break right at the connector. If connector wires are cooked, on the replacement harness, leave it as long as possible, with it routed forward, then back under the seat, to make the loop as long as possible, to prevent it from cracking again. https://www.google.com/search?q=C6+s...id:XsOavZtUolY
So stabbing in the dark, could just be corroded BCM connectors,
Seat would dare to guess connector wires cracked apart,
And as for RCDLR and radio, bad after-mart radio installed wrongly, and over taxed the ground wire splice block connectors, with power on the postive wires, but no back to ground on the ground wires at the ground splice block isntead.
One last thing, and get under the car to check the HVAC box drain line to make sure it not clogged. If drain pipe is clogged, box fills with water, and end up dumping that excess water to the BCM to cause all kinds of problems.
#26 is the drain pipe, and it has a very small hole through the bottom side. So best to just pull it off, and try to blow through it to make sure its not clogged. If clogged, then small tube to push the crap up and back out the top opening before you put it back on.
To add, on the power side, from the battery to Engine fuse block, to BCM, and then out of BCM and fuse blocks below and to the right of the BCM to the modules.
So in the below photo, the fuse on the BCM, fuse and relays in the block box that you have to pull the cover to get to under the BCM, and if you look under the BCM connector wires, another fuse block that you have to pull the cover to get to those fuses as well.
And again, when checking for power at the modules connector, make dam sure to check for continuity back on the the ground wire to chassic ground as well on the black wire in that connector. Hence GM through splice blocks on both sides to make assembly of the car faster, and some times, positive side block is fine, and its the ground splice block the problem isntead.
Security light , U1000 code
